72 SBC 240Z

That's what's great about a Z, while having money definitely helps with certain aspects us Z owners find a way to get by without boatloads of cash. When I saw that some companies want upwards of $80 for a door rubber I couldn't believe it, I'd rather spend that money on something to make the car perform better.

My fuel gauge sits below E, I'm not sure how much fuel is in the car but I know it's nowhere near full. Maybe if the tank hasn't got much fuel in it, it just drops to E, I dunno I'll just fill it up for now. I was cleaning up the wiring in front of the radiator with loom and electrical tape, all my lights work but I have about six or seven factory looking wires that they clipped, I have no idea what they go to, I can assume two are for the horns but I don't have any horns anyway, that leaves five wires with no idea where they go. Thanks for the help guys, I'm pretty stoked because my windshielf finally came yesterday and got installed, I have most of my lights back, and I'm only left with trying to adjust my float levels on the holley and replacing a tranny gasket then I should FINALLY be road ready.

No problem, The late model kia minivan is the only one I can personally comfirm but I have also heard people talk about the kia sportage, DC integras, but I'm sure there are a ton vehicles that you can rob the rubber off of. The most important thing I would look for is that the rubber is in good shape, still soft with no cuts and that it has a formed corner at the top back side of the door post.

I did a quick search and there didn't seem to be a consolidated thread of all the other vehicles you can rob weatherstripping from, I apologize if I'm wrong about this. I've seen a lot of people mention using kia sportage weatherstripping but after searching the local junkyards I couldn't find any sportages, however I did find an 04 kia minivan and wanted to let everyone know they work too! I took the front door rubbers and the rear hatch rubber. The door rubbers fit great, the angles are perfect. The rubber is pretty thick though so in order to use your door sills you'll have to trim the rubber unless you can squish the rubber enough to allow you to get the screws for the door sills started. The hatch rubber was a little long so I trimmed about a foot and it fits great, the corners kink the rubber slightly but it doesn't seem to affect the seal. All in all I spent $15 at the junkyard and both my doors and my hatch have new rubber, it all came off a fairly new vehicle so it's in great shape and barely shows any wear, far better than spending $200+ from some places. Feel free to add other vehicles you know to be suitable weatherstripping donors, tomorrow I'm going to investigate using a fox body mustang mirror on my Z since I don't have one at all and there are no junkyard Zs around here.

Okay Update: Problem Solved I started off checking the steering column first, at first glance everything looked fine but I started digging in the mass of wires and found a bullet connector and spade connector hiding amongst it all that weren't connected, I hooked them up and nothing happened so I starting checking the other wiring until I worked my way over to the fuse box, once again amongst all the wiring I found two spade connectors one male and female hiding and when I connected them together the hazards, brake lights, and headlights started working. I still do not have blinkers but I have not touched the blinker switch yet so I'm betting that a good cleaning will take care of that. I also don't have wipers but if I listen closely I can hear the motor make a noise when I turn it between off and on so I assume there's a bad connection or seized motor, temporary solution= rain x and/or don't drive in rain. headlights working (low and high beam) hazards working brake lights working only thing left is blinkers, wipers and the fuel gauge I have singled out that the wire with inline fuse that blows as soon as i turn the key to the "on" position is most likely the blower motor since it's the only thing left not working. I appreciate the help guys

Has anyone tried the 10k ohm resistor yet to see if that works? Trying to decide whether to pick up a resistor or a whole new tach on the way home today.

Okay let me take that back it appears the blue wire with inline fuse could be for the wipers or something to do with the radio, my guess would be wipers since now that I think about it they don't work. Edit: Dershum you really seem to be onto something, after a bunch of search it seems like a bunch of people have had the same problem and it was either the turn signal switch or the hazard switch, i well definitely be paying both of them close attention when I work on her today. I will probably add to my to do list removing both switches from the steering column and cleaning up their contacts.

Thanks for the reply Dershum, I would love to upgrade to the newer fuse box, I've eye balled it several times on MSA but unfortunately money is tight right now and MSA is pretty proud of their products. I'd definitely be sure to check the hazard switch but would an unconnected hazard switch really keep the brake lights from working too? After studying the wiring schematic for a couple hours last night it's become apparent that Nissan wiring these things up in a very "interesting way". I've always owned Z's but never a first gen before and man this thing is different plus it doesn't help that I've been DD'ing an S13 for the past couple years and really got used to hwo everything worked on it. It still amazes me that a carbureted 40 year old car can give me so much trouble. I know my first post was a bit rambly after working the entire weekend to get this car road ready today but to recap in a simpler way All lights were working fine saturday- pulled dash out and reinstalled all lights (not 100% about brake lights, didn't check) were still working sunday- cleaned up interior and found that headlights, brake lights, blinkers and hazards aren't working but tail lights, side markers and gauge lights are working fine. So, on my to do list today is 1) verify power at the headlight plug, if not check all fuses, connections and switch 2) inspect hazard switch (would a faulty turn signal switch have the same effect?) 3) lay down in that oh so comfortable position where I can stick my head up in the dash with a flashlight in my mouth while I check all the wiring connections 4) pray I don't have to pull the dash again. It seems to me that the blue wire with the inline fuse behind the fuse box goes to the blower motor or something of that sort so I'm not too worried about it, in fact I think it's been blown the entire time I've had the car so I'm not too worried about it having anything to do with the lights but while I'm check under the dash I'll look for any wires that may be grounding out on something metal.

1972 SBC 4bbl/TH350 No electric after market anything except for electric fan and water temp gauge There is a lot of weird wiring behind the dash that the previous owner did that makes no sense to me, it's apparent that they cut/spliced/cut again/spliced again/ several times but it doesn't go anywhere, it just ends so whatever they had in the car is gone. Okay now that's out of the way, I'm finally in reach of being able to drive my z the windshield I've been waiting for several months now is due to be installed tomorrow but after doing some cleaning up on the car I find that the headlights, blinkers, hazards and brake lights are not working all of the sudden. The car has been in my garage for over a year now waiting to be driven but I checked the lights just a couple days ago. I pulled the dash the other day and reinstalled it, making sure all connections are good but Im at a loss here and have been studying wiring schematics all evening. I have a blue wire near the fuse panel with an inline fuse that as soon as I turn the key to on it blows so obviously it's grounded out somewhere but the only blue wire with an inline fuse in the wiring diagrams leads to "cooler" what is that? My side marker lights, tail lights, gauge lights work fine, but the headlights (low and high beam), blinkers, hazards and brake lights are doing nothing My only guess is that some of the PO's funny wiring left a loose hot wire that's grounded out somewhere in the dash?

The 10ohm resistor is to utilize the stock tach with a GM HEI distributor correct? Just wanted to double check and be sure before I go get a new tach, I would much rather keep the stock one since my project budget is almost non-existent with a baby on the way

. . . sigh. . . I suddenly feel like a very poor fish in a very rich ocean.

biological warfare, terrorist, NSA, FBI, etc lmao

Can't be both?

Actually I originally joined this site about five years ago, just recently rejoined with a new name more appropriate for my current car. Dunno why the site is saying I still only have 1 post though. I am Charlie Sheen, now bow, and bring me my liquor

sweet, bout time there was something worthwhile on facebook other than looking at old classmates that got fat and had babies.

On Tv he plays a drug addicted alcoholic that gambles and uses women, the show is a bit hit. Then he does it in real life and gets fired from the show that pays him to act that way. I think he's badass no matter what he does.

Do not like. I've never even watched the show before but a coworker called me up last night and told me about it and that they'd be doing a 240Z, I figured it'd be worth a watch but I was wrong. I wish I could erase the Speed Racer Z from my brain. Definitely did not like what the old man said at the end, ". . . .it's still a datsun", what exactly is the problem with that? It's a shame that two nice Z's got ruined but can't take what either of those teams said or did too seriously, they really all seemed like idiots. I laughed at the argument the challengers had during the design stage when the team leader said it was going to be a Euro Inspired Racecar and the other guy says "It's not F****** eurpean!" ahaha.

If your biggest task is going to be laying down the laminate wood flooring then consider yourself lucky. It's real easy to lay down, just pull up your quarter round or whatever kind of base molding you have, after you have pulled up your old floor and get to cutting and laying down the new stuff. Just make sure you do a decent job of laying down the foam pad that goes under the laminate flooring, otherwise you'll be hearing dirt and dust and everything else crunching under your feet.

Im all for finding out where you stand before making a decision. Is it at all possible something went wrong when you were doing the compression test?