jimmyjones000

I ended up going this route with my lines, with no return at 3.5 psi. Parts list: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100736-1971-240z-series-1-z-wolf/page__view__findpost__p__999193

I've got another solid update on the z-wolf. So the decision has been made to strip the z down to metal and paint the whole car black. So for the next 3-4 weeks, I will posting alot more. Im hoping for it off to the painters by the second week of June. For the first step: Needed to check over the whole front of the car and strip off all the panels/parts/etc. The good thing is that there was no rot at all on the whole front of the car, just a few surface rust areas which i scrubbed off. ..and a couple spider eggs. For the second step: Alot of back breaking stripping and sanding. Gotta process the images in the next few days. For the third step: I decided to use Eastwood's three step sealer, for the front frame. 1 coat - http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html 2 coats - http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html 2 coats - http://www.eastwood.com/ew-extreme-chassis-black-high-gloss-aerosol-14-oz.html This stuff is really good to use before painting too. http://www.eastwood.com/low-voc-pre-painting-prep-aerososl.html Next weekend ill be jumping on the engine bay and installing some Arizona-z coil-overs. Stay tuned....

It's been a long time since I updated. I finally got all the -6 AN lines installed and I also installed a Holley Pump, fuel pressure regulator/gauge, and a fuel block. JEGs had all the parts and the AN banjos to fit the triple 40 mikuni's. I've attached all the part numbers if anyone is interest in doing the same. I also took the advice of other members and set the fuel pressure to 3.5 psi. www.jegs.com 361-807691 -6 SS BANJO 12MM X 1.25 720-6151 FUEL BLOCK TRIPLE OUTLET 361-AT981666 FTNG -6 TO 3/8" NPT 361-AT981606 FTNG -6 TO 1/4" NPT 555-100845 FTNG #6 FEMALE X 3/8"HOSE 555-100912 #6 HOSE PRE-CUT 10-FEET 555-110001 #6 STR HOSE END BLACK 555-41010 LIQD FILL FUEL 0-15 BLACK 555-110403 3/8"NPT PLUG BLACK (2) 361-AT981666 FTNG -6 TO 3/8" NPT 555-110524 #6 UNION W/ 3/8"NPT BLACK I only took one photo, so I'll get a few more up in the next couple days.

It's been awhile. I have alot of content that i will be posting soon. It's a good day today though. -6an fuel lines/hardware and fuel pressure gauge to go with my new Holley pump and regulator.

whats the 75' look like? When i got mine, the first thing i changed out was all the fuel stuff. Fuels lines, rubber hoses, dropped the tank and "hot tanked" / por15 it. Some one my fuel vapor lines were cracked and leaking fuel into the rear cab...pretty bad. The fuel lines were the biggest pain in the ass, but its well worth it for safety and making sure none of that crud gets into the rest of the system. For the 70.. im not really sure yet, cant decide if i wanna keep it really stock and move it back to SU's or start stripping it down and doing a resto-mod style. Seems like the best idea would be to keep it original though, since its a 01/1970.

so for father day, my wife let me have the whole day off and let me work on the car all day.. haha. So i decide to tackle the rear suspension. My goal is to take down the whole suspension and any of the rear items, strip them down and paint them all. Looking to order new tokina shocks and lowering springs, and rebuild the rear brakes plus all new poly bushings. Also, gonna add a large rear sway bar. so here it begins... BEFORE sanding down all the junk AFTER.. using Rust-Oleum® Rubberized Undercoating.. looks so good more sanding... this little pin drove me nutz for a few hours, i tried hammering the damn thing out and it wouldn't move, so then i just start pounding it out with a mallet haha, after i damaged the threads... so, if anyone is gonna do this, use a press to get it out.. arggggg. New ones go for about $50-60 a piece. Anybody have any spares ones, maybe trade for something else? a little chemical dip the crud,paint,rust, etc just came right off with the hose primed and painted.. soo shinnyy new poly bushings, the old ones were pretty beat up flame red anyone? alot of work for a day and half. Going to let them cure for a week or so and put it all back together after i get the rear done, im gonna install a holly fuel pump and regulator, to get my fuel pressure down to 3.5 for the mikunis, as its around 4-4.2 right now. After that attack the front suspension.

Here's the specs on my other 70', picked her up earlier this year, almost everything is orginal, except some of the goodies below. She's been sitting for almost 30+ years in a garage, so for sure needs some clean up and rebuilding of fuel lines/tank/etc Specs: 1970 240z ( Production 1/1970 ) hls30-01412 all original parts ( except below ) L24 number matching engine E31 head polished "2400" Valve cover ( sweet ) 23k miles on body ( been in storage/non-op since 80 )( only driven on weekends from 70-78 ) 4 speed Triple mikunis - 40pph 6-1 header ( ceramic coated ) The previous owner was looking to make it into a little race car around 1982. So, he sent the engine in for modification and it still hasnt been fired up since. engine & other specs: head ( number matching ) with no miles on it from rebuild ( still has machine shop build grease on cam/etc ) .040 over / high compression pistons - sleeves / Schneider race cam / header / electronic fuel pump / oil cooler / large front and rear sway bars / strut frame brackets / poly bushings / slotted rotors / larger brakes / and orginal dealer slotted rims. ill get some photos going in a few days

432R dammmn... that is nice.

the real sound is wayyyy better, 6-1 header to 2.25 exhaust to resonator to big free flow exhaust http://vimeo.com/25332266 also, the car is gonna eventfully be all black , so i gotta do the black hood/orange body for now

last weekend started working on the body work, well, i really only did the hood, its just so much work haha, busted out the DA w/ 100-320grit and some filler. car looks pretty good with a black hood ( flat black ) and the rest orange. Hopefully ill get to the rest of it soon. Gotta cut out some rot in the fenders, but i seriously have no clue how to fix it. Im handy with a welder, but really no clue how to make it looks right. Any one know the correct metal thickness to use when replacing the lower part of the fenders?

last month i started stripping down the engine and taking all the emission parts off. Also i moved over to triple Mikuni's (40) from the 71' SU's, since i bought another Z (01/1970-awesome!) that had brand new ones installed. BEFORE look pretty dirty and cluttered DURING STRIP DOWN Removed air pump and all emission parts and SU's new k&n filters test fitting new ceramic coated 6-1 header... shiny.... test fitting Mikuni's and measuring to build a custom heat shield, looking to waterjet them, so there perfect shitty 10 dollar fuel filter new 8mm cables, electronic ignition, and nkg spark plugs SOME WHAT COMPLETE, Sounds sooooo good

from Feb 13th, 2011 thought id do a quick update, started to pull some interior stuff out today to clean inside out and check for rot spots inside. Took the seats and seat belts out too and found gunks of dirt/trash/etc.. and all the sound insulator is all dried out and cracked as you can see Replaced all fuels lines/fuel filter and dropped the tank. Gotta clean the tank out next weekend and replace all the tank links and she'll be back up and running. Next step: paint strip and body work. sanded down the area under the seat and put a couple coats of black

i started this thread over at zcar.com, but I'm liking this forum alot more , so I'm gonna continue the "tear apart and build" thread here. --- this baby has been sitting in my Wifes parents next door neighbors garage for 13 years, and I just happened to see it 2 weeks ( Jan.10th,2011 ) ago while they were closing the garage in the corner of my eye. I just had to have it. So, i went over there yesterday, made an offer and it took about 2 hours to get her running. Shes running smooth, but has flat spots on the brand new tires ( 8 years old ) and a bad shock, not bad for sitting that long. She only has two small spots of rot, went over the whole car and only found light surface rust. The previous owner put in new brakes and front rotors, all new exhaust system, and a few engine changes. Production Date: 11/1970 Registered as a 1971 HLS30-141** Engine 1976 L28 w/ WebCam street cam w/ N42 head Milage: 80,453 71 SU's

Clean looking, did the air filter help with any of the fuel smells? I'm just running mesh covers Also, do mikunis need to be super fined tuned new from factory? Mine are brand new from factory back in the 80s I believe, I got them from someone that had them boxed in there garage, were sitting for almost 10-15 years ( never been used ). Well techinally they came with my other 240z , production date 01/1970. , but they were obviously purchased later on by the guy. All I really did was adjust the idle air to about 4-5, and adjust the fuel supply till the idle was great and the plugs stayed at a light dry brown color

24 MPG would be nice

Haha, well I'm keeping it under 3500 , 95% of the time , usually in the 2000-2900 range

So sweet... What size are the rims and tires?

Just wondering what the typical MPG should be on an l28 w/ triple 40 mikunis? Right now I'm getting around 8-9 on 91 around town, and I'm a semi hard driver. Haha More info: 1970 240z 75 l28 n42 ( stock) no smog or air unit 75 n42 head w/ upgraded cam (12 @ timing) 40mm mikunis w/ air horns and mesh covers Electronic ignition 8mm spark cables 6 to 1 ceramic header w/ 2.25 exhaust Mechanical fuel pump at 4 psi fuel pressure Spark plugs are light brown and not wet Idle at 1000-1100 Ill post a couple pics soon