datman
-
Posts
409 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by datman
-
-
some pics of the pod in the dash, I cut some smoked plexi to go in between the megaview and the plastic screen.
-
Still have this problem.....dwell dial shows dwell is changing although edis should deal with dwell. Because I have EDIS selected for ignition the Dwell settings are in grey so I can't change them. Is this normal?
-
I had noise from my single wire temp sensor....I'm running a fixed resistor in the relay board at the moment until I get a 2 wire sensor. I also had noise from the electric fan into the crank sensor....when the fan was running with the engine off but ignition on the fuel pump would start running! took me ages to figure that one out.
-
-
I like picture 1101 of the airdam...looks like you hit the fender in with your head
...cars looking good! nice choice of dam -
Hmmmm I had better check mine too....I always figured unless I remove it and use on anaother car it would be fine.
-
I was thinking more along the lines of smoked plexi between the megaview and the tach pod screen, this will only allow the screen digits to be viewed.....I made a tinted plexi screen to go in place of the radio but then decided this would be a better idea. I will probably use that static tinting stuff you can use on windows .
I think one of those 4 way mirrow joystick switches would be good for the contol switch.
-
Need to add some tint on the lens but you can see how it fits.
good idea about the indicator LED's....a shift light would also be good.
-
After removing my dash i have been thinking about options for my Tacho as the old one won't work with MS. I've decide to use a tinted perspex lens and mount the mega view in the back of the tacho pod. The screen just fits inside, will post some pictures of it later tonight.
-
I used a one way check valve on mine like used on motorcross bike tanks. It has a small ball bearing inside that close when pressure trys to escape but allows air into the tank. It does allow a small amount of air to leak past, only closes fully as the pressure increases. Like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FREE-P-P-6-Algarde-Non-return-check-valve-koi-pond_W0QQitemZ120229587937QQihZ002QQcategoryZ3212QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
-
Stick a 2mm steel head gasket on the NA motor and you will be fine. I run a NA l28 with megasquirt and a holset turbo @ 15 psi......it has more power than traction!
-
About 15 years ago I was restoring an Alfa romeo 1750 GTV series 1......I was using an underbody paint gun, the guy that leant it to me told me it blocks from time to time and the way to clear it is to hold your thumb over the end and pull the trigger. I had seen him do this a few times so didn't think much about it. So it gets to the time when the gun blocks and I try the unblocking trick...the gun fires underbody paint into my face..up my nose and in both eyes! it winded me and I couldn't see anything....scary!
Lucky for me someone was outside the shed and heard me shout..the nurse at the hospital was not amussed, she had to wash my eyes out with plaster remover. Very lucky escape.
The other nearly dead accident was when I was looking for play in the steering rack of a delorean....I had the car on its jack and removed the front wheel. I climbed under the front but couldn't quite get my head up into the area where I wanted to look, I got out from under the car to lift it some more. Half a turn on the jack and the screw snapped and it fell to the floor....now that was lucky.....and stupid.
-
-
Made my own front end.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6307&cat=500&ppuser=8086
This is an old photo as the car now has flares as well. It did cost somewhat more then $500.00 to make the molds and took a really long time to sand and get the shape right. Hopefully with the undertay and ducting to the radiator it will be an improvement.
Douglas
very nice... you should make some more!
-
I have 650cc injectors and it idles fine at 1.7ms
-
A friend of mine lectures at a facility that has a wind tunnel. If "someone" in the UK with a factory G-nose would offer it for testing I'm sure he could arrange it.
-
I started this thread as part of the Windtunnel test section, as I believed a little look back at what had been done in the past was both relevant and interesting, and something could be learned from it. You might have noiticed that the 'G-nose' used in the Windtunnel tests was nothing like a factory item, and contained no ducting ( as seen on the factory race cars ) whatsoever. I don't think you have to look too far for "good" ideas, and - as far as history goes - only a fool would ignore such information wilfully.
I hate to say it but he has a point there! I for one looked at the data and thought it was strange that a G-nose would be less aerodynamic than a standard Z........ it's very easy to jump on information that is not incorrect, it's just not what you think it is. I also thought the g-nose was an attempt to revamp the look of the Z ..... I was soon corrected on that one too!
Anyway I will go and file myself back in the appropriate section and carry on reading this thread...Alan will know what I mean by that;-)
-
by any chance does anybody know where to get that lower front lip on the bottom of his air dam?
Or Joel, if you know where you can get it let me know please.
Thanks in advance...
Me too!
-
Maybe big phil should do an idiots guide to MS install video, that would be funny. Man that would be a lot of beers! Not implying that Phil is in anyway an idiot before someone gets the wrong end of the stick!
Ok a guide by phil for idiots....that sounds better.
-
I'm glad my arches were rusty as I wanted flares and would have hated cutting good ones. I would change the wheels and lower it, I think they can look really nice if set at the right height.
-
was thinking about using something like this for dyno tuning, would be handy to have a controller in your hand that would trim fuel with one dial and ignition with the other. Like this
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/oakwood_data/ecu_mapping_boxes.htm
-
looks good! I'd run 2 wires to the air temp and water temp sensors though. Using single wire temp sensor witht he engine as ground caused me all sorts of noise problems.
-
I use the Spec 515lb/ft 6 puck clutch. Works very well.
-
I have been looking at a unit used on MBE ecus that allows the user to adjust fuel and ignition live using a box with 2 rotary controls. Would this be possible on the Megasquirt?
...cars looking good! nice choice of dam
EDIS and Dwell
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
Justin from DIY was good enough to answer this for me.....the dwell dial is actually the SAW signal when using EDIS
Thanks for that.