datman

Before and After

Good idea, Thanks

On this subject I finally got around to sorting an old p90 out for modification. I commissioned a local company to make certain changes to the head. Stage 1 will be to strip it and acid dip it to clean out the internal water ways. Stage 2 will be to modify the combustion chamber (pics to follow) Stage 3 will be to tap into the water jacket for each chamber and route to a common manifold. Finally the combustion chamber will be ceramic coated. I'm looking forward to comparing the head to the standard p90 I'm running right now. The combustion chamber mod looks to be different from any I have seen on here so far. I will post up pictures as they send them to me. I'd like to thank the guy that cut the heads into cross sections, the pictures have been of great help.

I have a spec 11lb flywheel and a Spec 3+ clutch and never had an issue, very light on the pedal and copes with 350ft/lb all day long.

I have Falken FK452's, they are excellent in wet and dry conditions.

Here is what I did to my struts

I know a guy that used to work for Toyo in the development dept... he said " To drive a car with 888'sin the rain is insane"

I had this probelm on my VW TDI van from a sticky VNT mech..it eventualy failed big style and burst the intercooler!! luckilly for me it was under warranty

I think its been mentioned on here before but I was looking at the cooling system on my 72 Alfa GT junior yesterday, It has a pipe from each cylinder back to a common rail then joins the thermostat housing..very neat solution for such an old engine and its only a 1.3L. I'm going to copy that onto my car.

At what Rpm do you get that torque? mine is a similar setup and I get 316lb ft@4163rpm 275bhp @ the wheels@5750 rpm something is not right!

Sorry to hear about your car. A cheap way of fitting a tracker... get an old cellphone and set it to silent / auto answer. Use and old phone charger and hard wire it in to the 12v line, hide the phone somewhere in the car and register it with a phone tracking company. You can pretty much pinpoint the car and also listen to the people in the car if you like.

I had problems with pinking on my engine for some time...I have a knocksense kit fitted and it would flash under full load at 4000 ish rpm 12psi boost 18deg timing.....I couldn't hear it so I suspected I had sensitivity too high on the knocksense box....I dropped the boost and tried again and had no warning flashes.....I fitted a heatshield under my inlet manifold/fuel rail and took 2 deg timing off the the problem areas and it stopped. I would imagine plenty of engines are knocking slightly....not enough to cause instant failure but not good in the long term. Great Thread though, I think I will modify my spare head.

The main problem is when changing the pulley for another which has a different diameter, that puts the TDC mark out of alignment with the marker (which can be off anyway). Remove #1 spark plug and slide and alloy rod into the bore, turn the crank by hand until the pistons stops and scribe a line on the marker inline with the notch on the pulley, then turn the crank the other direction until the piston hits the rod again and scribe another line...divide the space between the 2 lines and you will have TDC....well near enough anyway.

Mikeatrpi.....you will need to change that clear hose coming from your manifold if it runs to anything other than the boost gauge....when the engine bay gets hot that kind of tube goes very soft and will collapse under vacuum......I found out the hard way

I was thinking that my injectors make more noise because they are low imp. and run at a very low duty cycle at idle so they slam open and shut. It does sound a lot worse on video.

Use rear ones in the front.

F54 block bored 0.5mm flat top pistons, P90 head, N42 non webbed manifold, 60mm throttle body, ARP main, rod and head bolts. 2mm steel head gasket, turbo oil pump, 680cc low imp injectors, 3" IC pipe large FMIC, Holset HE351CW with enlarged internal wastegate, 3" stainless exhaust with single box at the rear, megasquirt II, EDIS ignition. No porting just standard head and manifold. 275rwhp 316lbft torque at 13 psi boost.

I'd like to see it too! great video

Removing the rear bumper should be law for all 2+2 owners...it transforms the car.... 1 fast z that looks fantastic!

Here is a Guy from our forums 2+2 I think it looks amazing. His thread is here http://www.zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12515

leave it in place.....it blocks the vacuum when operated so no problem if not connected. You can buy a simple PWM kit to operate it in the future when you want adjustable boost.

sounds like injectors...only seems to make the sound at low duty cycle....my car sounds like that on video also, as soon as the revs/duty cycle increases the sound goes away....mine was made worse by the solid fuel line fixed to the bulkhead...inside the car it sounds like a worn engine.

Really you want a flow of air through the IC and another direct flow to the rad....under the IC to the Rad or over it. Just block the surrounding area so the air has no option but to pass through the cores. I tried passing air from the IC into my rad but it kept over heating. As son as I pulled the IC out at the bottom to allow cool air under and through the rad it was fine, it's not over heated since.

Surely the length wouldn't make any difference unless the coils were binding? If the LB rating was less it would just need a little more preload to get the same ride height. You could just run a softer spring of the same length if it's softer you're after.

I had a Saippuakauppias tell me that once.....I told him to wash his mouth out.