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Airdam looks like its installed way to low. Take the bolts off, push it up, and then tru to place the splitter on. You can always contact skillard

Competition hood scoop is installed and the intercooler can finally vent properly. Still needs sanding and paint, but this will do for now. The installation was pretty straight forward, however the supplied nuts are a pain in the you know what.

Sadly the slip yoke was trashed when the driveshaft u-joint snapped. Luckily my local diff shop had all the parts in stock and ready to go. The driveshaft is now fixed and back in the car. My brakes have been rubbish on this car since day one. Who would have guessed that 40 year old calipers and wheel cylinders would be junk? I mean common, they just are 40 years old. Bigger brakes are planned for the future, but just not in the budget right now. So in the mean time, some new stock reproduction brake parts were ordered. Ended up picking up some A1 cardone calipers for 25 each and some rear wheel cylinders for 27 each. The rear pads were junk so replaced those for 17, new springs for 9, and turned the drums for 15 each. The front pads and rotors were still prime, so those were salvaged. Found one of the rear cylinders was frozen and the other one was clogged. For less then 200 bucks the car now stops fairly well, has great pedal travel and pressure. Now that the car can stop, its time for more power

R&R the turbo to fix a broken stud. Welded the divider in the exhaust turbo outlet. Pressure tested the system and found a boost leak on the intercooler where the guy welded the new outlet. Going to have to send it out for repair. Installed a AFR gauge(no pics) Took her for a test drive and snapped the u-joint on the driveshaft. Warm days + sticky tires = all bad

Forgot to post this, sorry for the poor quality photos. Got the radiator and intercooler v-mounted. Currently doing some street testing before the final weld and paint.

Installed a fan shroud, I dont know why previous me did not already install one. Apparently I was a cheap skate when doing the cooling system. Anyways its a Z cardepot fan shroud, listed for 12inch fans. I honestly already have 10 inch fans, and they cool my little sr20 quite well. Luckily, the 10 inch fans fit the shroud, the fan itself is smaller then the hole(think a 12" fan would fit perfect) yet the outside covers the hole and has plenty of edge for support(they fit which is what I care about). The shroud itself is very nice, and for the price, hard to beat. Still have to drive her around and see how this changes my temps.

watch gauges/effected items, start shaking the wiring harness behind the dash and near fuse box. if somethings starts/stops working, problem near that area. Ghetto fast way of finding loose connections/grounds.

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Thanks, dig the username

Painted the front end air dam parts, and all put together.

Anytime you upgrade or do work to your car, take the estimated budget, and double it. Also, try to build your vehicle in stages, do certain things, get her running, enjoy her, then onto the next stage. Much nicer to the pocket book, keeps you into the project. As I have discovered with my project, sometimes what you plan on buying isnt correct based off the vehicles setup(springs to soft for the extra weight, or the engine isnt cooling proper with the radiator size) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ Build your motor stronger then the boost you plan on running. Then, if you are like the rest of us turbo guys, one day you will start turning up the boost, and thats when you hope the engine you built is strong enough. dont forget a/f gauge boost gauge clutch and flywheel radiator and electric fans air filter fluids agree with rebekahs: go coilovers also would spend some money on tighting up the chassis vs spending money on exterior badges. my 2 cents

Car: 260z with s13 blacktop sr20det -stock t25 -freddy intake -front mount intercooler -megan racing bottom mount exhaust manifold -mines ecu 62 Ignition timing can not be set to 15 btdc. The car runs good at about 25 degrees btdc with the cas in the middle lined up, but when the timing is set to 15btdc(the cas has to be rotated left and almost maxed out), the car runs like crap, no throttle response, and just falls flat on its face. the car has pretty much ran at 25 btdc for a while now, just decided to see if I can dial her in. Pulled the valve cover and mechanical timing looks ok to me, the crank is set to 0(second mark from the left), the intake cam lobe for cylinder 1 is <, the exhaust cam lobe for cylinder one is like >, the dowels are at 10 o clock and 12 o clock, the cas is lined up with the dot. The car does enter into ignition timing mode and its idle is set to 800. Dont know really what to do. Dont know if the ecu has something to do with this, or what, searching for any ideas. Thought maybe the cams are a tooth off, but seems like rotating the cams one tooth would set the timing off????

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