FJ 280z

ive searched for info all over this place for this, was almost about to try to fab my own front mount but i just called dave at arizonazcar today and he told me that in a few weeks, they are coming out with a solid front mount for the q45 diff. so there goes a bunch of problems i would have encountered and now it seems this modification just got that much easier, might be expensive, but probably cheaper than the 250-300 they were asking for in the other thread that got locked. just thought i might inform some people and give them some hope. i got my q45 diff and 4 driveshafts sitting around, im just waiting till the front mount comes out then i'll buy the moustache bar, moser axles and the MM adapters.....peace

whats the difference between the 2 intake manifolds, cause i have an extra manifold, off a 20e but the only difference i can see is that it doesn't have a stud or hole for the throttle cable bracket. do the s12's come turbo cause the extra intake manifold i have doesn't say TURBO on it, all just say ECCS

so i see the mod where you put on another throttlebody...q45 maybe or what is it called in AU, like a XF throttlebody or something like that.....did you actually shorten the runners on the intake manifold also?

thats exactly what im talking about, the sump didn't need modification to clear, it is a tall motor, but the intake manifold sits TALL, i need a cowl hood or something to tuck that thing under. also, i got an HKS topmount so the turbo sits real close to the brake booster, AND the d. side mount got in the way of the steering link, so now i gotta fab a longer link with probably a heim joint and another ujoint style joint in there....lotta work but i can't wait to get working on it again.....taking a two week break...

i hope i don't get flamed for this, but im a tech at a honda repair shop, so we get our fair shares of s2k's and i have had my fun with them "test driving", its a fun, fast car, but i feel like im in a sardine can when i jump in them, and the first time i drove one i felt like an idiot cause i kept putting it in 6th gear trying to reverse.....but yeah, honda is the first with over 100hp/litre N/A

and about 2 ft/lbs torque

finally got around to installing the engine on saturday, took a few hours but well worth it. good news: the engine is in there and mounted up stronger than....well, its just mounted very solid. 1/4" steel plates, 18mm 8.8grade bolts, poly bushings, and good welds, and...ITS IN THERE!!!! trans bolted to stock location too, no driveshaft mods needed the bad: steering link won't clear (have ideas to fab a new longer link to go around engine mount), starter won't clear engine mount plate on block (plasma cutter will do), intake manifold sits higher than stock hood (did someone say cowl hood), broke the rubber trans mount, turbo sits VERY close to the brake booster, downpipe VERY close to fire wall, but all in all, more modifications, more work, more fun, and more pics to come as i progress. going to hawaii for 2 weeks so when i get back work starts again, otherwise, its just sitting for now, tell me what you think......

i have a 77 280z and i plan on using megasquirt to control fuel and spark. im in the process of stripping my engine bay for paint and the motor swap. my question is what would happen if i disconnected the engine ECU? would my guages still work? does the ECU control anything besides the engine? i'd like to just cut the wires and be done with it, for a more cleaner look. it would be real nice to know because i also plan on using the stock fuel gauge and hopefully the battery and oil psi gauge too. i have an aftermarket h20 temp gauge. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys.......

my distributor has 4 wires, 12v +, gnd, 360 deg. trigger and 180 deg. trigger. which would i use to hook up to my megasqurit to get a firing signal from the distributor? 360 degree or 180? this should be easy because im guessing its similar to the 280zx distributors your using with the GM HEI? its for an FJ20 distributor also....not a L28

hey clifton, do you have any experience with MS or know anyone else in az, specifically phoenix/tempe/mesa/scotts area with MS experience. it just be nice to talk to someone local who's done something similar when i get around to wiring up my MSI

i paid attention to moby's diagram about using the GM HEI module, and i was just about to go that route but i have a spare MSD 6AL laying around and i was wondering does anyone have a wiring diagram i can use for connecting my MSD 6AL to the relay box and my optical distributor on a FJ20ET. im guessing the F-idle or tach circuit would send a signal to the 6AL, but im just trying to figure out what wires to connect where, and do i still need to put in 1k resisters for 12v and 5v power sources like in mobys diagram? thanks for your help........ MSI v2.2 with MSnS-E v3 and relay board.

your right near canada, alot of cheaper front clips go straight to canada, don't know where though, best thing to do is check ebay, there are front clips there all the time, s13, 14, and 15's, and they can ship it to your door for like 300 bucks, even if the clip comes from florida, hope that helps...peace

no, actually, thats why im asking how strong are the frame rails because i was going to mount it way behind the stock 280z crossmember, kinda like a mid-engine setup like what you do with the SR20's (nice work by the way) i was almost about to use like a C channel welded to the frame rail and weld mounts to those similar to what you did but this crossmember came along and changed plans. the FJ is going to sit in almost the exact place you mount your SR20's because im using the stock 280z transmission but im not cutting into the firewall at all. hope this clarifies things a bit....im just wondering how i can use the frame rail to bolt this crossmember to it

i was thinking about using this crossmember off a DR30 to put my FJ20 motor in my 280z. I measured the crossmember and from end to end the bolt holes will line up with the frame rails of my 280z. my question is, what would i need to do to reinforce the frame rails so i can use this crossmember? should i weld a plate to the frame rails that i can use to bolt this crossmember too? or run some huge bolts from the top of the frame rail to the bottom? if anyone had a 86 200sx, the frame rails are almost the same but they are tapped to accept these bolts, and the Z crossmember up front has the same deal. does anyone have any ideas on how to bolt this crossmember to the framerails because i don't want to permanently weld it, this might make dropping the motor easy in case i would have to do that. thanks guys........