1 tuff z
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Posts posted by 1 tuff z
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wow, big brakes, lots of hp and a killer body-what else could u ask for?!?! can't wait to see/hear the mpg's. i'd also like to see more detailed photos of; cage, brakes, undercarriage and interior. do you have your own website with the above?
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rick, your tilt front end turbo z is absolutely stunning! is the front end a kit or...
also, the moustasche bar work you did, was that to lower the rear of the diff?
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compomotive has wheels for your z [mine is the white 240 below your 1st post] in widths from 6-14" on a 16 or 17" wheel. mine are a 17x8.5" and i'm running coilovers-still have about an inch total clearance for [someday] wider tires. they have all the specs for the 240's as we spent quite a bit of time measuring and fitting prior to making the wheels.
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anyone ever replaced the heater hoses [from the heater core to the engine] and not used the factory stuff. i wanted to get see if someone has already done this and the install works well and looks clean. figured the original [nearly 30 years old] hoses are due.
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mitch, i'm running the jcr blower setup on my z and it does pretty well. no turbo lag, linear power/torque curve. i also avg. 20mpg around town and 28highway [provided i keep my foot out of it]. i'm running 7lbs boost on the l28et block/p90 head. i get rubber in 2nd and 3rd [81 n/a 5spd and r200 3.90 diff]. the holley projection unit is old and i will eventually upgrade to an sds or electromotive unit. auto-x's i regularly beat; porsche 944t & 911t's, corvettes & camaro 5.7's & mustang 5.0's. i've had the unit for 10 years now and the camden [not eaton] roots blower has proven reliable.
hope this helps...
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the car looks like a t-bird to me...
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i have been having a problem when the car is cold. once it is started and begins to come up to temp-the gauge continues past 180 and goes to around 210 before settling back to 180. it doesn't do it all the time and usually just when the car is completely cold. i have done the following to troubleshoot; replaced the t-stat [twice], ensured that i don't have air in the system [letting come up to temp-once antifeeze starts to circulate, then top off]. i have also run w/o the t-stat [temp seems to stabilize around 145-150, and don't experience the problem. i don't want to damage the head by seeing this temp spike each time i drive. does anyone run w/o a t-stat? if i do this, any problems? also, i run a 4 row rad, oil cooler and elec. fan, L28, p90 head, jcr supercharger setup. any help/feedback would be greatly appreciated!
thanks...
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there are jointed ends-at the strut towers. they appear to be for removal only. material looks like chromoly [sp?]. looking at the points [4] where it attaches to the firewall, i'm curious as to what support he put behind those mounting points-or if it would be necessary? anyone?
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there's a place here in rochester that does wheels [that are prepped=bead/sandblasted] for $50/wheel any color u want. the wheels are then heated for approx. 20 min at 400-425 degrees. i just had a valve cover done, it looks great!
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i still haven't had a chance to really put the pg thru the wringer yet. the guy at atkins rotary [they bought out camden superchargers-the place that built the jcr supercharger kit] shipped me the wrong boost pulley, almost toasted my motor-too much boost. once i have the new pulley and have the car in some semblence of tune, i'll start with the posts. there's also an auto-x coming up on 5/26, that will be the real test for me.
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i have the pg lsd in my z now [r-200, 3.9]. just put it in last week, unfortunately haven't been able to put it to the test yet...
install was pretty simple, remove diff, remove stub axles & cover. remove bolts & brackets which hold bearings/ends of "carrier/spider gears. punch out roll pin which holds [approx] 5/8" pin thru center of carrier and remove the pin. insert pg between spiders, reinstall pin. i believe they have tools which [once compressed] hold the pg together for install, i made my own. then reassemble, using ls additive in the diff lube.
i'll post more once i've logged some driving time.
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terry, the list price is $349, they do offer group buys though as well as racer net.
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just received my phantom grip lsd. it installed w/o too much difficulty and looks as though it will do the trick. still waiting for my radiator to be finished and i'll then have the z back on the road again-can't wait. once i have put some power to the phantom, i'll post again my thoughts.
ps-i ordered the same application they list for the 240sx r-200. no problem with the fit.
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danno, i called john at phantom and he has a unit for the 240sx r200. i then called nismo and now understand that the difference in the r200's b/w the z's and the 240sx is the pinion length. the rest of the guts are the same. i then sent phantom my guts from my r200, he measured and said it was the same. my phantom is on the way and should b in the car by end of april [once the snow is completely gone, i'll road test it].
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i just ordered the phantom grip lsd and should have it in the car by the end of april [assuming we have no more snow]. i'll then post my feedback on it [for the r200].
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i agree w/terry, got the tool and went right out to the garage to check it out. nice-n-ez! i also took it to a swap meet we had last week and everyone wanted to know where i got it.
great tool...
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wow. i wuz checking your dimer, very nice indeed. u must suprise other cars very often with that motor combo.
i like!
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i had the opportunity to speak w/john at phantomgrip numerous times over the past few weeks. based on our discussion as well as the 100000+testing both in drag, auto-x and road racing it appears to be a great bang for the buck. i will be getting one within a few weeks which i will then put through the wringer. i'll post my thoughts as i "beat on it trying to break it"
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ryan, r u looking for steel or fiberglass replacements? also, where in fl are u?
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try this link, it's a gear ratio/tranny/rpm, etc. calculator.
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i have the same 6/2 msa header and did the following to increase ground clearance and ease removal. shortened the 2 secondary pipes on the header by approx. 2", shortened the 2 pipes on the "collector" by approx. 2" and then had them enlarged to slip over the header secondaries, welded them together. then cut off the collector just after the 2/1 joint and added a header [u can use a 2 or 3 bolt flange] flange, added the same to the exhaust that mates to it. i now have the pipes neatly tucked up [look at any z that has this header and u'll notice the header hangs down about 3-4" below the frame rails-not good on a lowered z], and the header/exhaust is easy to unbolt as well.
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sorry, i listed the incorrect website. correct one is; www.macperformance.com/ & click on download 2001 catalog to see specs & prices, etc.
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check out this muffler. they guarantee to outflow dynomx 17734 [app for z's] and flowmstr 42553. t-304 16gauge stainless, lifetime warranty and inexpensive as well [no i don't work 4 them]. anyone else used this brand?
Anyone deal with compomotive?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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i have their ps wheel on my z. 17x8.5 with yoko a520's-215/40/17. no flares, running gc coilovers and no clearance probs and i'll go to a slightly larger and wider tire in the spring. alan at motorsport specialities and i spent quite a bit of time with; measurements-offset, backspacing & wheel diameter before final wheel build. they then shipped me 1 to try for clearance-fit fine and shipped the other 3. very service oriented and what i was looking for. 2 months ago i curbed a wheel, called alan-said no problem we can fix it [at me expense of course]. i'll b sending it back this winter to get the outer rim section replaced-they'll also tru the wheel prior to sending it back.
link to a pics of my wheels-
http://www.240z.org/photopost/showgallery.php?user=1750&cat=500&thumb=1