redneck1545

I don't think you should be concerning yourself with head/cross/tail winds as at highway speeds...or any speed above said wind, you are essentially negating that fact. Look elsewhere as in coolant flow. I had an issue on mine where I close looped the heater core right back into the block with no issues. I later added the heater core in normal configuration but with the coolant flow in the 'off' position on the valve on the inside of the car that flow shut off as its supposed to. However, I had previously blocked off the bypass on the water pump to better facilitate even cylinder cooling but had forgotten about that with this engine in this car. Long story short, the thermostat could not sense the temperature quick enough to open and allow coolant to flow. It would overheat in a matter of minutes with the heater and valve in the off position. But with the heat on, it never got above 190. Not saying you have the same issue but I just think you should look somewhere beyond the scope of airflow with regards to headwind vs tailwind.

The bearings are the same for the 'correct' pentagon style hubs and the s30, so I just used s30 bearings and 300zx seals but had to 'trim' some of the inner lip on the seal off to get it to fit flush on the s30 spindle.

Do you happen to have the JTR adapter bushing for the bmw temp switch mentioned in the beginning of this thread? If so i'd be interested.

I only ran two 10ga wires from my alternator to my Distribution block and another 10ga straight to the battery. Not sure how much bigger one would necessarily need. I think my problem may be not enough grounds and/or bad body grounds...or the fact its a junkyard fan :/ On a side note, I like your profile pic! Do you fly for a living or fun?

I also used two 00 ground cables, one from the -bat to starter/block and another one from the front of the engine to the chassis. Might be time for me to chase some more grounding options. yea, pretty much I have +bat to starter, continuing in 00 gauge cable from starter to dist block. In 10ga wire +alt to +dist block, +alt direct to +bat. protected from short you say??? Only protection I have is in the back of my head saying don't touch any of 'these' wires to any of 'those' wires. I should put some inline protection on the 10 gauge stuff and probably will in the future but as far as the 00 gauge cable I'm just going to check it periodically like every other car to make sure its not chaffing on the positive side allowing it to ground on the chassis at any point.

SBC 357, 10:1 pistons, around .500" cam, mild duration. Nothing special... Idles around 1150 at operating temp and drops to just below 1000 rpm with the fan on high.

Mike, I've got the same setup and have completely rewired the car using a EZ-wiring kit. I ran a 00 gauge wire from the battery to the starter and another 00 gauge wire to a SAAB 4 terminal 60 amp distribution block. I'm running my headlights off individual terminals on the distribution block for high and low beams with relays, as well as another terminal that feeds the volvo relay for the fan. I ran my alternator to the feed post on the distribution block as well as another alternator wire back straight to the battery. The problem I've been chasing, and others have had as well on here that I've read, is the fan pulls so much juice on high that causes my alternator to load so severely that my rpms drop by about 200 every time the fan kicks on. Everyone in the past has talked about massive alternators and such, I'm just curious as to if you have had this problem as well. Any info would greatly be appreciated!

I went to summit racing and picked up a triple pass crossflow alum radiator. They were out of the double pass radiators and I talked them into selling me the triple pass for the same price as the double pass! I just measured between the frame rails and found dimensions on the website that would fit. I am also using the Taurus fan with the volvo relay. Very good setup in my opinion. My fan never kicks on at highway speeds and only on low speed at red lights. And I still need to shroud in the bottom of the radiator as well! Only downside to the Taurus fan that I've seen so far is the fan pulls so much juice that it causes alternator to load up so severely that it causes my engine to drop about 200rpm! I've completely rewired the car using the EZ-wiring kit and have my fan running off the volvo relay and a Saab 4-post 60amp distribution block. I could only imagine what issues someone would run into using the stock datsun harness.

Could they be used for the regular interior plastic trim in the rear of the car?

Patiently awaiting paint pics...I'm trying to decide between KAD and KAC paint codes! lol

I completely rewired everything when i did mine with the EZ kit. The ONLY thing I didnt replace were the connectors for the tail/head lights but all the wiring up to that point was re-done. If your going through the trouble to re-wire the whole car then...well...re-wire the whole car. no point in skippin out on the gauges!

I agree with all the statements above about the cage, not about triangulating a main hoop with downlegs though. Although if its just for show I wouldn't particularly worry about changing the design now. My main hoop was built on 74_5.0l's spec sheet and was so tight to the rockers that I had to hook a ratchet strap to the ends of the legs and squeeze them into the car. Removing the tension on the strap once it was in place allowed the hoop to 'spring' up against the rockers...thats how tight it needs to be for safety concerns. The more important matter of the fuel cell though, yes you most definitely need to change the mounting! No way will those 'locating' tabs be enough to support the weight of a fully fueled cell...and then drive around town an hit bumps! Personally I built mine out of a 1"x1" square tube full cage with four down legs, welded the nuts inside the legs and made a fully supporting cage for the bottom of the cell to bolt up into the down legs. Ill try to get some better pics for you when I'm free to do so but heres some pics to give you somewhat of an idea of what I'm talking about.

Thanks! all I have laying around was a bunch of m8 x 1.5's and m6's. I wanted to know for sure before I made ANOTHER trip to the hardware store. Next build Im categorizing EVERYTHING. These little parts add up fast!

I thought there was a comprehensive bolt size list on here at some point but I can't seem to put my finger on it at the moment. Anyways, my question is does anyone know off the top of their head what size the bolts that screw the door hinge to the door are? Thanks in advance.

The bmw switch and volvo method have been used before and would most likely prove to be the easiest route. I'm using a volvo relay hooked to a rocker switch and it works flawlessly. I will soon be buying the metric adapter from JTR and make the fan fan come on automatically with the bmw switch. I would go with whats been proven in the past with a collection of various OEM parts vs making your own circuit board and such.