Charles Patterson

look forward to those numbers C

Thanks for the quick reply. In reality I probably have the first 4 items on your list. So it might be possible to build one for less than 2k. I would have that in any other motor I might build maybe more in a turbo motor because I would have to buy pistons (forged). Thanks for the info. Do you plan on any dyno time in the future? Charles

Steve, I have been looking at a build like this for a long time but every one seems to believe it will cost 4-5k. In round numbers what do you have in the engine? Just the long block not induction or exhaust. I have 2 cranks currently but would probably go turbo before I spent 5k or more on a stroker... Charles

I have a V07. If you are still interested PM me. Charles

Blue72, The picture is great. Thats the kind of info I was looking for. I realize what HybridZ is mainly for, but I also know there are a number of members that have amazing knowledge of the z cars and how they were built. Just trying to find some of that info that is hard to find elsewhere on the web. Thanks, Charles

I have a series 1 z on a rotisserie. It is going to the body shop in January. I have not been able to figure out some of the details of where and how to paint it. Do the wheel wells get painted body color or are they undercoated black from the factory. How about under the car is it correct to paint the underside of the car body color or should it be under coated. It would obviously be cheaper to epoxy prime the underside and then under coat. What about the hardware along the front fenders? Body color or are they left bright. How did the factory assemble and paint the cars. Did they paint under the fenders and then assemble and paint the body or did they paint individual piecs and assemble the car? Any help in determining the correct way to paint the 20z would be great. Thanks, Charles

Does anyone recognise this fender flair kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d3Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d5322478195245959845QQ_trksidZp3286Q2em7QQcategoryZ6187QQitemZ220702241519

You will need a really tall gear to get much out of the 102 max rpm, but torque shouldn't be a problem; fuel on the other hand... http://people.bath.ac.uk/ccsshb/12cyl/

The wonderful thing about an early z is they are very light. 400-500 lbs stripped I did not stress too much over alot of things for this first try, because the margin for error is so large. The other thing about a rotisserie is you should never need to be under the car, so there is very little chance of me getting hurt. I took 2 harbor freight 750# engine stands. I cut them with a Milwalkee Port a Band about half way up. I bought some 4x1/4x24" plate at lowe's and I had some tubing at the house. I raised the rotating hub to about 48 or so inches off the floor to make sure a larger car had room to spin. I bought some casters from harbor freight so I can roll into the yard for media blasting or load it on a trailer if neccessary. I had an old rectangular trampoline frame that some one gave me and I cut that up to make the attachment bars and to brace the stands. I also welded up a tube that runs from stand to stand. I welded 1/2x13 nuts on the top of the stand's front leg centered over a hole for bolts to hold the stand togethor. When I welded things up I leveled the forward leg with a bottle jack I clamped things togethor and leveled the hub with a torpedo level. I also plumbed the vertical scab plates with the level. I filled the space between the plates with some 1 1/2 x 1/2 thin wall tube I had laying around. The brackets for the car have a round 2" tube. I used muffler clamps 2 on each end. I would raise one end tighten the clamps, then raise the other. I will eventually make a threaded rod adjuster that can raise the car using an impact wrench. I designed a rotisserie on my computer but after steel got so expensive I had to improvise. Wheels, wleding wire and all I have about $350 in this one not counting the trampoline frame. The balance point for the car is 2-3" above the center line of the bumpers. I will say this, I used tube to come end where the front bumper brackets mount. I used 60mm bolts 10mmx1.25 (i think) to mount those to the car. They are pretty sturdy. The back bumper mounts on the car flex alot more and I will probably fab a bracket that can be added to mount to the diff bolts to help with the load. Wow... that got long. There is more detail than that but ask questions so I don't ramble anymore.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/292328 Duh left off the link:wink:

Found this on NICO site about halfway down someones says tooling was destroyed for R200 Power Brute unit....

I spoke to Precision Gear today. They do not have the LOM59-12 limited slip unit and evidently have not had it for awhile. Precision gear was evidently bought out, and they have not had any in stock since the buyout and have never dealt with that vendor. They say they can not get this unit any longer. Is there another vendor for this unit? I have not been able to locate one. Thanks, Charles

Grump, The lifters ooze oil out the pushrods no pumping action.; one lifter has a constant stream out of it. I had a problem with low oil flow with the last set of lifters also. They were GM rollers. The heads are aluminum edelbrock with guide plates and long slot ProForm 1.5's. Oil is 5w-30 brand new. Engine is brand new less than an hour of time on it. The 60 psi at idle makes me think I have a restriction somewhere. I adjusted the pushrods with the engine running. Loosen until they get noisy tighten untill quiet and add 1/2 a turn. Thoughts?

Grump, I've got one for you 350 SB chevy that was rebuilt had bad lifter bore and poor oil flow to valve train. Rebuilt with differne tblock still has bad flow to valve train. They all ooze oil except one lifter thats pumps out a continuous stream. Oil press is 60 psi at idle. Ideas

Just got off the phone with them 29 spline (which is desireable, correct?). They don't have clue whether it will fit in the longnose R200 case.