Charles Patterson

look forward to those numbers C

Thanks for the quick reply. In reality I probably have the first 4 items on your list. So it might be possible to build one for less than 2k. I would have that in any other motor I might build maybe more in a turbo motor because I would have to buy pistons (forged). Thanks for the info. Do you plan on any dyno time in the future? Charles

Steve, I have been looking at a build like this for a long time but every one seems to believe it will cost 4-5k. In round numbers what do you have in the engine? Just the long block not induction or exhaust. I have 2 cranks currently but would probably go turbo before I spent 5k or more on a stroker... Charles

I have a V07. If you are still interested PM me. Charles

Blue72, The picture is great. Thats the kind of info I was looking for. I realize what HybridZ is mainly for, but I also know there are a number of members that have amazing knowledge of the z cars and how they were built. Just trying to find some of that info that is hard to find elsewhere on the web. Thanks, Charles

I have a series 1 z on a rotisserie. It is going to the body shop in January. I have not been able to figure out some of the details of where and how to paint it. Do the wheel wells get painted body color or are they undercoated black from the factory. How about under the car is it correct to paint the underside of the car body color or should it be under coated. It would obviously be cheaper to epoxy prime the underside and then under coat. What about the hardware along the front fenders? Body color or are they left bright. How did the factory assemble and paint the cars. Did they paint under the fenders and then assemble and paint the body or did they paint individual piecs and assemble the car? Any help in determining the correct way to paint the 20z would be great. Thanks, Charles

Does anyone recognise this fender flair kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d3Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d5322478195245959845QQ_trksidZp3286Q2em7QQcategoryZ6187QQitemZ220702241519

You will need a really tall gear to get much out of the 102 max rpm, but torque shouldn't be a problem; fuel on the other hand... http://people.bath.ac.uk/ccsshb/12cyl/

The wonderful thing about an early z is they are very light. 400-500 lbs stripped I did not stress too much over alot of things for this first try, because the margin for error is so large. The other thing about a rotisserie is you should never need to be under the car, so there is very little chance of me getting hurt. I took 2 harbor freight 750# engine stands. I cut them with a Milwalkee Port a Band about half way up. I bought some 4x1/4x24" plate at lowe's and I had some tubing at the house. I raised the rotating hub to about 48 or so inches off the floor to make sure a larger car had room to spin. I bought some casters from harbor freight so I can roll into the yard for media blasting or load it on a trailer if neccessary. I had an old rectangular trampoline frame that some one gave me and I cut that up to make the attachment bars and to brace the stands. I also welded up a tube that runs from stand to stand. I welded 1/2x13 nuts on the top of the stand's front leg centered over a hole for bolts to hold the stand togethor. When I welded things up I leveled the forward leg with a bottle jack I clamped things togethor and leveled the hub with a torpedo level. I also plumbed the vertical scab plates with the level. I filled the space between the plates with some 1 1/2 x 1/2 thin wall tube I had laying around. The brackets for the car have a round 2" tube. I used muffler clamps 2 on each end. I would raise one end tighten the clamps, then raise the other. I will eventually make a threaded rod adjuster that can raise the car using an impact wrench. I designed a rotisserie on my computer but after steel got so expensive I had to improvise. Wheels, wleding wire and all I have about $350 in this one not counting the trampoline frame. The balance point for the car is 2-3" above the center line of the bumpers. I will say this, I used tube to come end where the front bumper brackets mount. I used 60mm bolts 10mmx1.25 (i think) to mount those to the car. They are pretty sturdy. The back bumper mounts on the car flex alot more and I will probably fab a bracket that can be added to mount to the diff bolts to help with the load. Wow... that got long. There is more detail than that but ask questions so I don't ramble anymore.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/292328 Duh left off the link:wink:

Found this on NICO site about halfway down someones says tooling was destroyed for R200 Power Brute unit....

I spoke to Precision Gear today. They do not have the LOM59-12 limited slip unit and evidently have not had it for awhile. Precision gear was evidently bought out, and they have not had any in stock since the buyout and have never dealt with that vendor. They say they can not get this unit any longer. Is there another vendor for this unit? I have not been able to locate one. Thanks, Charles

Grump, The lifters ooze oil out the pushrods no pumping action.; one lifter has a constant stream out of it. I had a problem with low oil flow with the last set of lifters also. They were GM rollers. The heads are aluminum edelbrock with guide plates and long slot ProForm 1.5's. Oil is 5w-30 brand new. Engine is brand new less than an hour of time on it. The 60 psi at idle makes me think I have a restriction somewhere. I adjusted the pushrods with the engine running. Loosen until they get noisy tighten untill quiet and add 1/2 a turn. Thoughts?

Grump, I've got one for you 350 SB chevy that was rebuilt had bad lifter bore and poor oil flow to valve train. Rebuilt with differne tblock still has bad flow to valve train. They all ooze oil except one lifter thats pumps out a continuous stream. Oil press is 60 psi at idle. Ideas

Just got off the phone with them 29 spline (which is desireable, correct?). They don't have clue whether it will fit in the longnose R200 case.

Will any of the LSD's for the Nissan trucks fit into the R200 long nose cases? Is the spline count the same? Like this one for instance? http://www.purenissan.com/limited_slip1.htm Stumbled across this looking for r200 LSD options...

Is $450 for a maxima diesel complete a good price?

I thought it was kind of high myself. I didn't know of any other useful parts off of the LD28, but I passed it along anyway. As the engines become more and more scarce the prices are only going to rise. Also the double post happened because I went to the "New Posts" and the 1st post didn't show up so I thought it did not post so I reposted it. I had to look under the sub forum to find it; don't quite understand how that works yet.

I had another member send me this link if anyone is interested http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/1252963704.html

I had another member forward ths to me if anyone is interested for a stroker motor http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/1252963704.html

It appears from the KVR site that there are at least 9 different vehicle yaer combinations that use the same pad. The real question becomes how do you know what is going to work best? Also on the Axxis pads are you running the high performance or the performance street pads?

I am working on an upgrade on a 240z, toyota calipers up front and maxima calipers in rear. I have found hawk pads for the rear but I have the narrow calipers for the front that take the solid rotors. As of yet I have not found pads that work in those rotors. I have looked under the hawk website but they don't list a pad for that year 4x4 truck. I didn't know if the pads from the later year truck or the other caliper options were interchangeable. I also had intended to run hawk pads at all four wheels but I didint know if that was neccessary. Thanks, Charles

I got my headlights working. I think the problem was the combo switch. I think I took a later series switch and installed it on a series 1 car. The car I am working on now. I switched it back, they didn't work, then they did, then they didn't. Anyway they work right now. so we'll see. I have most of the electrical sorted out, but I have another problem the wipers... I have owned 240's for almost 20 yrs. This car I am working on now was my daily driver at least 11 yrs ago. It sat for almost 10 of those. Family, kids, work whatever. So I am going throught it and trying to get it back on the road (we have a new derilict car ordinance here; like it's any of the goverments business). So anyway there is corrosion, the usual melted circuit in the fuse box (running lights). So I have soldered all the terminals in the fuse box like they recommend on the Blue ridgeZclub site (early style w/ the long leads) It seems the running light circuit uses a haevier gauge wire in my later z fuse boxes. Any way the wipers. I found the diagram in the photo gallery that shows the schematic for the wiper circuit ( this site has great resources). I have a hard time figuring out how it works. I have the wiper motor in the car and two other wiper motor units. I have tried all three on the car. You can here the relay click but no motor movement. I have almost 12 volts coming to the motor on the blue w/ red. This closes the contact in the relay that is bolted to the wiper motor inside of the plastic case. When the concats close I don't have voltage on any of the other leads (blue w/ yellow or blue) I have also tried feeding voltage directly to the wires on the wiper motor (black w/ yellow, green, and red) I assume the motor uses the common ground on the case (black wire). I took the motor apart ( I do not recommend this) There are three brushes inside w/ springs. They come apart and you really can't reassemble it. The aramature will turn in the case but only with pliers, but you can't pull it out of the case. It appears bradded in. So rebuilding it or cleaning it up doesn't seem feasible. I worked on it all weekend. In the end I still don't understand exactly how the switch works, or the wiper circuit or how to test the switch to rule it out. I hate electrical problems... Thanks, Charles Man I'm glad I made that brief...

I have an early 240z series 1. If I put the fuses in the fuse box, the headlights burn regardless of the position of the headlight switch. On the early wiring diagram there is a passing relay shown, but I can't locate this in the dash or under the hood. I may not have one, I don't know. If I seperate the 12 ga wire betweeen the column switches the lights go out. Any ideas? Thanks, Charles

The truck is my work truck and has all my tools in it ( I am a builder). The truck is an 1983 1 ton F-350 so emissions is a non issue and to replace the truck is fairly expensive. I would rather invest in my Z cars versus a new truck. There are a few things I would like the truck to have AC, Pwindows, better clutch and fuel injection. The truck has a motor I built in it already: .030 over, cam, headers, Edelbrock intake, Holley carb, dual flowmasters and makes good power. It is geared very low but for a 7000# truck it moves pretty good. I figure the injection would make cold staring better, idle better especially if I add AC and couldn't hurt my mileage either. It really couldn't gow down much:) . I just wasn't sure how to go about it. If I did the swap it would have to be quick. I can not afford for my truck to be broken down for weeks. What vehicles would be candidates for the intake pieces (newer FI trucks?) Thanks, Charles