John Scott

I got to visit with another Z8 member, Rob, today. Nice clean car, Rob.It was cool to see another project, share some of the headaches, and get some needed info. One of the discussions was whether or not rear sway bars are necessary. It seems from what I've read that if you have the LSD, then go w/rear sway. If not then leave them off. For those of you who have run w,w/o, tell me your impressions. Oversteer, under, etc. Thanks! John Scott [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 20, 2000).]

I got to drive a 308 GTB in the early 80s. One of the sweetest sounding V8s I've heard. It wasn't terribly fast and as I recall the woman that owned it said repairs were REALLY expensive. It would be exotic, though.

Holy Smokes! You guys are 'da Gear Gurus! 3.35 1st is stinkin' low for a standard! I thought shifting before redline in 1st was a challange now. Thanks again for the info. Before you go pushing into the 200s, or 30 for that matter, tighten down every nut and bolt on the thing, and then do it again. During a high speed run in mine, the tension rod came loose. Changing lanes @ 100+ without my input kinda' sucked. We got dumped on (snow) yesterday. 1 1/2 to 3 hours from the good ski resorts. Rck mnt natl prk, less than an hour. Bandimere (mile high nats.) 1 hour. Bring your Oxygen!

SuperD, Sorry to hear about your brakes. I had a caliper piston sticking intermittently in one of my older cars. Sometimes it would grab, other times it wouldn't. Doesn't really sound like your problem. It seems that even if the proportioning valve isn't optimum you'd still have a firm pedal. If there aren't any obvious leaks or pulling to one side or the other, I'd bet you either boiled the fluid, like Myron has suggested, or have an internal leak in the master itself, especially since you have more play suddenly. Does it lock up on front or rear when it does grab? Its always something with these "project" cars. I know you don't want to drive a rod without the binders,... BUT what was the motor like? When does the power come on. Can you ever hook up the tires? If you haven't pushed it that hard yet, we'll try to be patient until you until you figure out the slowing down part. [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 16, 2000).]

I'm sold on the T5 idea...Alright, whos going to be in Colorado next weekend? Just kidding, it'll be sometime this summer for the swap. Lee, Let me pick your brain for one more question. I've seen a couple of different ratios offered in the T5s. What are they for the WC T5s? Yor rear problems sound frustrating. A little bailing wire and duct tape go a long way! Thanks again for the good info.

Lee, I love stories like that. Thanks! The tranny in question is a world class T5 from a V8. My auto part stores won't let me behind the counters anymore. I spent too much time looking for the "perfect" radiator hose! Anyone out there have an idea what a good used Vette 700 goes for?. Also, Lee, what clutch/ pressure plate are you using? Anyone know if the mustang T5s the same? And are the T5s longer/shorter than a 700? [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 15, 2000).] [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 15, 2000).]

I need some advice from you experienced stick shifters. What are the preferred years/ models for T5s. I have a neighbor waving one under my nose. It is from a Late 80s early 90s TransAm. Is the T5 different from the 305s to the 350s? What's the going rate for a good T5? (Just rebuilt) And for comparison, how much is a good Vette 700r4 these days?(I bought mine in 94.) I'm not making tons of torque, so the T5 should handle my engine and my low end launch problem. Do you need a different bellhousing? The TA has the wierd offset. Tailshaft splines are same as 350, right? Thanks! [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 14, 2000).]

Ditto on Myrons info on non Vette, camaro, firebird trans. I had a 85 truck 700 for a few years. It shifted too early, couldn't use 4th at full throttle. It sold me on the 700s, but find the right one.

Go for the 87 and up 700s. If anyone wants the correct setup on the TV cable I could email the info. Bear with me though, 'cause I'm new at this computer stuff. I recommend talking to Rossler Trans. about the 700s. I'm sure there are many good trans people out there. Go for good reputation. Toy Shop Transmissions (909-602-5849) has a good wiring setup for the lock up. Just drop the pan and throw away the old wiring. 4th gear line pressure switch engages lockup. Only engages in 4th. The lock up brake switch cut off is a good idea, or the trans lugs/bucks in 4th at low speeds. Don't defeat the lock up unless you have changed to a non-lock up converter with all the requisite internal changes. John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 13, 2000).]

Takman 57, If you can, go for the 700. The first gear is incredible 3.06:1 and the .7:1 overdrive makes life on the highway a breeze. I posted this formula earlier and might help: Engine speed= mph X final drive ratio ------------------------------------ Tire outside diam.(inches)X 0.002975 With a 350 your final drive in 3rd (1:1) is your rearend gearing. With a 700 4th(1:.7) multiply your rear gear ratio X .7. With a 3.55 rear 24.5" tires, and the 350, 100 mph is about 4800. With the 700 it is only 3400. Find a later Z28 or Vette trans.(wierd tailshafts) Study up on the TV cable and its geometry. Motorsport has crossmembers to fit, or you can make your own. I see a lot of high dollar high hp engines with the 700s. Local 383 daily driven street vette low 11s, Carl Rossler 700 transmision, Precision converter.

Do you think your parents would mind if the whole V8Z site would register our cars there too? Hmmm...someone would probably get suspicious.

Emmission tests in Texas too? I guess its where we're all headed. If you know of a facility with a HC/CO tester that will let you use it, tune your car for test day. This involves leaning out the carbs to the max and optimizing your timing for a clean burn. Limp it to the test and then reset afterwards. Even @ 2000 w/o a load, as in a static test you should still be on the 2bbls. Are your tests made with the car in park/neutral, or on the rolling dyno type? In CO. They also have the idle and 2000rpm test. For older cars they give you a lot of room. Pre 74s are exempt from the visual part of the test, i.e. evap. emmiss., converters, smog pumps, etc. We also have "collector vechicle" tags, 25yrs older, good for 5 years. Some room to play before test day comes again. Many of my big cam buddies can't pass now so they are either race only or registered out of controlled areas(also coming to a close) I got around it with my cam's big lobe sep angle, 114 deg. Smooths out the idle, good for top end hp, and minimizes overlap, a big killer in emmiss.test. Supercharger really helps to clean up too. Some of your cam profiles would probably destroy the test equip! Just underway in our city is a "RD2000Van(?) that tests cars emmissions as you drive through their "emmission trap" and like photo radar, records your lic. #. Pretty rude! I got a notice in the mail after blowing through one. Still experimental, they invited me to a smog dyno test. I passed on the offer. Who else has emmission tests? [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 11, 2000).]

I know this is an older post, but I think there are a few other points to the 700s. As all my research indicated only the later 86 and up 700s were worth having. The z28s and Vettes were the only ones to have the 4th gear that would hold at top end use. The other models, like my old 85 truck 700 would downshift from 4th to third at full throttle. B&M makes a valve for this problem, but still isn't a full throttle deal. Pay close attention to the TV cable mount and settings. This isn't just a downshift cable, but controls fluid pressure, shift feel, and shift points, incorrect setup can ruin a tranny. Find the a template for the correct geometry.The Toy Shop offers a lock up kit for little$$. Hooked to a hot wire it only locks up 4th when you shift into it. The lock up,I was told, and unless modified, is part of the lubrication circut and must be used in 4th. Beware of Vette 700s 'cause they don't have your traditional mounts. I changed tailshaft housings from another and fabricated a pretty cool setup. The 87 vette trans stays in 4th, but you have to go 140+ to prove it!

Hey Carlo, Tell me about your 5 speed. What year trans/ bellhousing did you use? Which clutch master? Any problems to date? I like the idea of a 5 speed over my 700r4. I'm not setting any torque records with my engine so I can't justify a T56 or Tremec. Thanks, John

SuperDan, Congrats. on the initial run. I remember my first WOT out on the highway. Took my old gear buddy friend for moral support. We were all over two lanes of the highway before I knew what was happening.(hasn't been in my car since) Keep it straight and on all fours. We'll be checking on the site Saturday for the celebration speech. Have fun!!

My wife says she'll buy me a set of sway bars for my B-day!! YES! What size is recommended? Who makes a complete front/rear with rear install.kit, mine didn't come with one on the rear. Competitive pricing and brand names appreciated. Dear, about those coilovers....

csddk, One last alternative with your radiator is to find a custom shop that will build one for you. I took my stock radiator to a builder and he fabricated a 5 row from thick tanks that were of similar dimensions. The mounting hardware was all transferred to the new set up. I use two electric pushers and it will keep mine cool sitting in traffic on 90+ degree days. A mechanical fan with shroud would be even better. It sounds that the new alum. models are the way to go, but at least there's another alternative. John

With even the relatively high weight/hp on the camaros, mustangs etc, it seems even 150 isn't that hard to reach. A lb/hp ratio of about 9:1 can give a reasonably aerodynamic car a trip somewhere in the 170s. The new Lingenfelter corvette, 5lb/1hp hits 226 with nothing resembling a spoiler. I know there is a big difference between hitting a top speed and being stable up there as well. I love the original lines of the 240. On the other hand if that pesky new Viper GTS in town starts bothering me.... What a quandary. I guess I'll start looking at spoilers. No one wants to be the test pilot to find @ what speed a 240 becomes airborne. (In the March issue, Motor Trend writer, Mac DeMere lists some pretty real concerns about top end testing. It ought to be read.) I don't condone pushing a almost 30 year old car to its limits, but out of curiosity, how fast has anyone else pushed your Zs? What have you done as far as ground effects? Thanks for your input Guys! [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 06, 2000).]

Michael, Thanks for the reply. So if I put on a BRE rear spoiler my monoxide headaches will go away? Bummer. Really, I would like something that works. I've seen the high side of 160+ and it would be nice to feel more attached to mother earth. Maybe this is the ticket. What about the ducting in the front spoilers. Isn't the idea to keep the air out from under the car? Does construction material make any difference?

Obviously there are a lot of Zs here capable of extreme top end speeds. Has anyone experimented to find what really works and what just looks cool? I've heard that the front air dam was one of the most important steps to achieve high speed stability, and that many rear spoiler designs just upset the airflow. Do the BRE dams/spoilers work? I like the minimalist approach here and they seemed pretty small. [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 03, 2000).]