John Scott

Talking to the ATI Procharger guys is better than phone sex!! What was I thinking? I ordered the highest boost pulley you can run with the 8rib. 59000rpm+ @ 7000rpm, just shy of the 60,000 redline. Not really trying to grenade my engine, just get lots more boost down lower. Ohhh, my tires are really going to hate me now! I'll post the results when I get it! John Scott

We'll support whatever you do Spence. I'm sure it will be fantastic!...so what kind of beer was that anyway? John Scott [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 17, 2000).]

Before anyone runs out and buys an engine a few bits of info. might be needed. The 4.3 which is really a 3/4 350 smallblock (cyls 3 and 6 are missing) was first built in 1985. This is the only year for the 2 piece crankshaft seal. 86 and up will all be 1 piece. An adapter is made by chevy to swap the two designs. In 1987 the blocks went to roller camshaft designs. otherwise remained the same. Somewhere down the 4.3 line they added a balance shaft to the engine. This is not the model you want. The 4.3 engine has the familiar 4 inch bore and 3.48 stroke of the 350. Rod length is also identical, but the 4.3 has a unique big end bearing size and width. This is a true even fire block with crank pin offsets to give the 120 degrees between firings. An odd fire,not to be confused with the semi evenfire earlier small displacement blocks, is offered by some aftermarket companies for max. effort v6s. This allows the use of the v8 style rods. The Syclone guys running 10 sec.1/4s will tell you the stock crank is fine with the four bolt conversion. They also recommend the later 93-96 heads and rods from 96-98. I haven't verified this so you may want to do some of your own research. Chevy says the stock rods are great if they are prepared as in the Chevy power catalog/manual. I suggest buying this book if you start building the 4.3. Valve train, pistons, bearings, mains, oilpumps, water pumps, etc can all be shared with the small block. With few modifications they claim the 4.3 can live above 7500 rpm, but I think the ticket to power is what the Typhoon/Syclone racers are doing: Large boost #s at under 6000 rpm. I think anyone building this engine will be happy with the durability and performance! John Scott [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 16, 2000).]

The price of two 4 bolt splayed caps plus re-machining the block to accept them.(Chevy has billit splayed, also Milodon others.) Drilling, tapping, align bored/ honed. I'd call a good machine shop for a quote. By the time you build up a motor from the start + the supercharger/ turbo, + the intercooler., distrib, intake, etc.. Its all going to be pretty pricey. (I think sanderson makes block huggers. I had mine hand built.) Probably more than the 383 build up. If you want the extra room and like the idea of the 'chargedV6, then jump in! I've never had so much fun with an engine! How many ponies do you want to get from your engine??? John

Spence I've never been to a Dyno. The stock Syclone motors @ 14 psi were suppossed to have 360 lbs/ft, 280hp @ under 5000 rpm!. I've been quizzing the Ty/sy folks pretty hard over the same question. Most that have chassis dyno'd their trucks have reported closer to 400 and above and 295hp @ the rear wheels. The guys running the bigger boosts, 20 lbs, are reporting 500 and more. I left an email with a T5 builder with the same question. He uses the new hardened shafts, and the countershaft bearing support. I 'll have an answer next week on his opinion. I like the weight of this trans too, but need the durability ? answered. I think my hp is in the low to mid 300s at our 5000 ft, but until I can get it on a dyno, or the track, those are just estimates.(I hope I'm being conservative here) I wish I could give you a ride in it! If you have the works balanced, and get the 4 bolt conversion, I promise the engine will not dissapoint you! The 4.3 is identical to the smallblock on all mounts and bolt patterns. Yes any trans bellhousing for the smallblock will fit the 4.3 Same w/ flywheels,clutches starters etc. Internals are pretty much smallblock too. If you need some more info on the parts and pieces, pistons,rods, cams, distrib.....let me know! John Scott [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 16, 2000).] [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 16, 2000).] [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 16, 2000).]

Come on Lee, you can tell us! What are you up to? John Scott

The inline 6 BMW is an awesome motor. I've seen centrif. supercharger kits for the motors. Don't leave DINAN out of your list of perf. sources. I love the old 3.0CS. My Dad owned one with 2 webers. Was a real kick. Since then he went to a 633, and finally the 850. Hey, the v12 would fit like a glove! Mclarens variation runs pretty well! John Scott

Go for it Andy! You might want to check ATI (procharger) for their equipment. They were the first with the gear drive internals, billit impellers, and really good air to air intercoolers, a must at the boost your talking of. Not to mention their prices. They've also done lots of work with the 5.0. Vortec makes some really nice stuff, but look at the alternatives. Whatever you go with it will be a beast! John Scott

Or even the high tech 5.4 quad cam found in the new navigator. This would be my first choice for "dream" project v8 motors. John

But, I checked my mail history and recorded his address. Maybe he still has it! LAR5614@yahoo.com. Good luck! John

Spence, I should have double checked to see if it was still there before I posted. (I was rushing out to take my kid to the movies.) Last week I was searching for after market intakes/heads and came upon it. Only a few bids in and reserve not yet met. I figured it would be there a while. Didn't mean to get your hopes up for nothing. Sorry about that! John

Spence! this was my original idea w/the 4.3! I was going to build a sleeper 72 Hilux AWD PU, (Astro awd viscous coupling, 700 trans) but fell in love w/ the Z. Look for the 4.3 turbo on ebay! The computer turbo is really the high tech way to go! John Scott

Saw a syclone motor, w/ computer, low miles on ebay last week. If you are going "high tech" this would be the hot set up! Search ebay under auto parts, 4.3 v6. Dan? Spence? John

Dan, The v6 is a natural choice for the swap because of its light weight and great placement in the engine bay. Mounts are home design. Similar to the old 55 chevys, I believe. Fabricated from old datsun mounts! I didn't even know of the JTR book 'till this year when I discovered this site. Had some good advice from a guy who makes custom racing frames. He built all my "stuff" once I gave him the dimensions. I run a 87 700 R4 from a Vette. R200 rear w/3.54 ratio. a Spicer 19" driveline. I'd like to go 5 or 6 speed. My engine is a balanced bluprinted(relative term here) 85 4.3 engine from a Astro van. Came w/ a 4 bbl quadrajet! CC custom ground cam specs are 228/232@ .050, 474/483 lift, with the requisite (supercharged) 114 lobe sep. angle. Internals are mostly small block v8 parts! Pistons are trw 7.5:1 forged, "hard" clevite 77 bearings, magnum roller rockers, reworked rods, Fluidamper, edlebrock, and a holley 600 dbl pmpr. As much head work as the stock heads could porting is restricted here, w/ manly proflo valves. My supercharger is a Procharger which I highly recommend. (The people at ATI are great for advice and servicing. The price can't be beat either.) My boost is currently 14 psi, soon to be going up. There is much in favor of the 4.3s if you go that way, but as you know Buick offers an amazing alternative. I'd be glad to fill anyone in on the peculiarities of the 4.3. The timing w/ the stock heads is pretty bizarre. Go with the 4 bolt coversion or a bowtie block with the 4 bolt mains installed. Katech, builders of racing 6s and 8s, wrote to me this week and said to avoid the lower end aluminum bowtie block. Distortion in the bores seems to be a problem.They also had some misgivings about the oddfire crank. These engines will spin 7500-8000 all day if preparred as in the Chevy power book. If you supercharge/turbo you can run high boost w/ low rpms. The Syclone/Typhoon guys have been writing daily to give me information and support with my "some day" plans. Stock cranks have been powering many 10 sec 3500 pound trucks! Fantastic heads can be had from chevy or Brodix. A 400+ hp supercharged v6 can have a docile nature crusing around town and give great milage. You're not tied to that high compression big cammed v8 to make power. When you have the right engine parts, you can run the race gas and bump up to 20 lbs for track day. Pulley changes are 5 minutes away. I love v8s and really miss the exhaust note, but the 6 offers some excellent alternatives! Anyone need any info on the 4.3 in more detail, let me know! John Scott [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 15, 2000).]

Chaz, for simplicity the turbo 350 is hard to beat. It can be built to take really high hp applications and it doesn't take an arm and leg to buy/ build. If you want the cruise-ablity of an overdrive then you need to decide if you want to control your shifts or have it done for you. The later T56s are really strong, I wish I had one! As for the 700, if it is set up right, makes a great trans. 3.06 1st and a .7 4th. Want one? John Scott

Knowing a little about your engines potential, I'd say you are within reach of 10s. What do you plan to do for fuel lines? What do you think the original size can handle? I have a boost regulated pump. about 5 lbs putting around and 14+ at full boost. We have a unique combination. At 0 boost levels we can behave with the 200 or so hp, then transform into high hp at the drop of the hammer. It's great! John

We have our own little corner for now! Since we both attacked the ZV6 transformation w/o a JTR manual, I was curious about your engine placement and mount fabrication. I came up with a really cool set up for the chevy block. But it's REALLY low and back in the engine compartment. Also, are you running an intercooler? ATI makes a 2 row that would be good for about 450hp, and a 3 row for the big #s. I've got a friend building a turbo small block Ford for the SS Nevada race, and is going to run their 3 row. With all that room ahead of the radiator it seems a natural place for one. Lastly, how much better are the "on center" Buick blocks for performance? John Scott

My old rule of thumb is when it smokes under load its usually the rings. Under coasting conditions, engine drag, the valve guides/ and or seals. Leaky guides/ valve stem seals will also give a puff of blue when you start after sitting a while. John Scott

Ahhh. The first post on a virgin forum! I'm looking forward to lots of v6 posts in the future. I think there's a lot of potential here. With many naturally aspirated v6s in the 300s hp, turbos and supercharged versions that would blow your mind. The fewer engine parts i.e. pistons, rods, rockers, etc, and fuel economy are inherent in the v6. Not to mention the lighter weight and polar balance in a Z chassis. Thanks SuperDan for our own place to rant and rave. John Scott [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 15, 2000).]

Secrets out now, Scottie. With a looser converter and trans brake you would explode off the line! I'm planning a bottom end upgrade. Found a good source for some radical bowtie heads and even the Pontiac style heads (like the Brodix -10s) Found one aftermarket source for oddfire cranks. Many claiming 5-600 are using stock crankshafts! Already running 7.5:1 forged. I want to keep it streetable, but be able to bump up the pressure in the 20s for the weekend warrior bouts. My supercharger, a Procharger 600B(billit impeller) can push enough cfm to handle 800 hp. I'll have to upgrade my drive from the 8rib to the 10 if I plan to go much higher. Intercooler is also in the works.I have one acquaintance that dyno'd his Syclone and had over 400 lb/ft at the rear! This was a mostly stock motor! Many are claiming well into the 500s lb/ft. Interesting about your powerless low rpm. Mine acts the same. Can't get 13-1500 from the converter. (I thought the turbos could spool up under torque braking?)The car is light and with no compression, small displacement, and big cam...a scared dog could beat me accross the intersection! Then, watch out! Stay in touch, this could be interesting! John Scott

Little related story, I was racing a porche in my old 65 442 olds hitting 6500 in top gear when I noticed the oil pressure needle bouncing on zero! I pulled it over and without turning it off, ran to my trunk for the ever present spare quarts(cans back then)There were none. But I did have a jug of 90 wt gear oil. In it went, pegged my pressure gauge. Made it home and filled 'er up. Engine lasted me another year!

Wait a cotton pickin' minute, Scottie! I wanted to be the ONLY V6 here....just kidding of course! Welcome to our sandbox. Looking forward to swapping stories, making comparisons. Be glad to fill you in on my 430z. Just got a earful, or should I say screenfull of information from the Syclone/Typhoon lunatics (20-26lbs) 2 second 0-60s, 10 second 1/4s 3500 lbs!. The GN is a killer engine! LOTs of hp potential in the v6s as you well know. Send some pictures to the site! John Scott [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 13, 2000).]

Monster Z man, check the blurb about bumpsteer in the JTR manual. They dispute the spacers and recommend relocating the lower control arm, up. Check the book for exact dimensions and details. Explains roll centers etc. . Don't know for sure 'cause I haven't tried it! John

The info. I gave about the bolt patterns comes directly from chevy. You can't fit earlier (85and older) flexplates or flywheels on the newer cranks.(86 up) You can, however put the two piece crank into a one piece block with the adapter offered by chevy. This also holds true for one piece cranks into 2 piece blocks, same adapter. The earlier cranks with the larger diam. bolt pattern are recommended for max effort engines. You are talking a lot of ponies before this would be justified though. Find a Chevy power book for more details. John Scott

Hi Dave, A little out of my territory here, but I have a closely related little brother, the 4.3. In '86 chev changed to a one piece seal to reduce leakage. Earlier bolt patterns were 3.58" diam, so they won't fit. 86 and up were 3". You have to use a weighted flywheel or flexplate with these engines. They can be found with either the 12.75" diam or the 14". Then choose the matching starter. The others can help you choose which one fits best into the Z. I can't offer advice on the front damper. I'm running a Fluidamper. It's a good piece, but again I'd check your application. Good luck. John Scott