John Scott

Great news, Pete. Nothing like resolving a nagging problem. Now that you can keep your cool, time to have some fast fun! JS

I thought 0 degrees is what to shoot for. As long as the trans and diff. are on different planes the u joints will wear well. A straight shot from trans to rear is a no-no. The Z will have two offsets in relation to the diff centerline. First the engine is biased to the passenger side, and second the trans. is somewhat higher than the diff. I have a zero degree diff, but my engine is set so low this is easy to do. (Having your oil pan hanging out for any road hazard isn't the the best solution here. Probably better for lowering the C.G. and a good argument for a dry sump system) I've had some minor "mystery" vibrations I feel better urethane mounts would cure. The stock rear diff. mount seems sloppy to me, and with the power of some conversions, I think the solid mount is the way to go. The JTR fix with cable is a good recommendation, but the solid mount, noise or not will be the way I'll go.

It would be awesome! Ford's is definitiely lighter, unless you have an old Viper motor laying around. JS

Mike, Excellent #s!! Those high RPM engines make me lovesick! Could you record the Dyno pulls and put it on the site? Can't wait to hear about how this baby rides! JS

Just make sure the surface is dead flat and not warped anywhere. Don't want any head gaskets to go! JS

Mike, Why is your fuel system so intent on torturing you? Criminy, you've been through that whole thing a billion times. You've got to be getting close to resolving this sucker. Does everyone's fuel systems hold pressure to the pound, or is there some natural variation as they warm up? What are you running for intitial timing? Also curious what your cam profile is. Duration @ .050. I thought retarding initial timing raised exhaust temps. At least when done to extremes. JS

Lets start with what year and size your engine is. Pre 86 or post. Are you building for a standard trans, or a automatic. I know you've said flywheel, so I assume its a standard trans.(sometimes the term flywheel is interchanged with flexplates for automatics.) If its a standard transmission, how much hp and your intentions will help others give you a recommendation on what to run. (clutches etc) Either the 168 or 153 tooth will bolt to your engine. Both will have starters that fit in the Z chassis. For more starter options, you should use the SMALLER (153tooth) diam flywheel/or flexplate. This way you can run one of the aftermarket gear reduction, or just a good old v8 camaro starter 82-92. What edition is your JTR manual? Page 3-5 spells out the starters to the letter? I wouldn't mess with motor plates. You'll be doing more fabrication than necessary. The chevy mounts and adapters are the quick way and you don't have to guess on placement. JS

Ryan, you need to get a copy of the JTR manual. I don't think anyone here could/would post a complete Z engine swap. JTR really covers just about everything from A-Z. Can even buy the mounts ready to go from Stealth right from the back of the book. The JTR site is in the links portion of this site.(click the contact us http at the bottom of this page, then go to links.) If you have the book, don't let it overwhelm you. It would be easier to address smaller bits of information than a whole Z conversion. Starters are covered in the manual. Are you running a stick or auto? What year is your engine? How much hp are you building, Are you building a street or race ready car. Lets try a little at a time! When you hit a snag someone here can probably help. We're 100 members+ strong! If you are making it through the engine build then...YOU CAN DO IT, DUDE! JS

Danno, thanks for the tip. I don't subscribe to many mags any more. This is the kind I like for later reference. BTW I bought mine from the Berthoud Toddy's this A.M.! Think it was the only issue! Hope you weren't looking for a spare! How's your Z coming along? JS

YEAH YEAH go with the ZR1. That was the pinnacle of v8 coolness. Didn't Merc. Marine have something to do with it too, or am I just having some wierd flashback? Z-ZR1! What do ya think Spenc-ZZR Gotta be your destiny! JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 13, 2000).]

Stan, 490+ horsepower is a REALLY STOUT 355! Scottie, I posted the same question when I first joined. I too was suprised how few people have gone to the track. I guess some of us either don't have time, don't have one close by, don't have the project done yet, (lots of projects in the build stages) or don't care about 1/4 times. I would bet as more projects are completed we'll see more posts for the 1/4. This site was only started this year. Lots of members cars were only in the planning stages. I love hearing the stories about the proud owners first drives! I hope more timeslips will be coming. Me included. Swat5444, in answer to your question, With a true 350 hp in a 2700 lb Z, will net you about a 118 mph in the quarter...with ideal conditions! This would be in the 11s if you get good traction. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 12, 2000).]

Z-Dreamer: I've tried to find V6 sites, too. Look in the Typhoon/Syclone areas. They'll be dedicated computer/ FI engines. Intimidating performance claims! Good tips sometimes. We're building somewhat of a different animal here. Here are some specs. I am going to assume you are going to run low compression/high boost to maximize the power out put of the V6. The lower the compression, the higher the boost and higher hp figures you can achieve. Don't cheat and go with the hypereutectic pistons that came with the syclone. If you make a timing boo boo or over boost they'll be gone pretty quick. Absolutly stick to the forged when supercharging. They will take more abuse. With the TRW forged 7.5:1 (w/ stock head combus. chamber volume) part # L211F, 15 to 16 psi won't be a problem w/ pump premium. Cam specs for 10 psi: 228/232 @ .050, 474/483 lift, 114 lobe sep. angle. This is the cam I am running. It was designed for the Zs weight, 3.54 gears, Automatic trans, some minor head work, high flow valves, etc. I never thought I'd be running 18 psi, but more is better, too much is just right! For 14 psi with a standard trans, the specs are up to 230/236 @.050 488/491 lift, same 114 lobe s.a. This is the cam I would recommend for your application with the 5 or 6 speed. I'll change to this profile when I make my trans swap. My cam pulls only 7 inches of vac. at idle in gear. This one will definitly need a vacuum resivoir for the brakes. See summit for this. Order # from Comp Cams is 5445/5208H 114. This is a flat tappet hydraulic cam. Chevy says the flat tappet cams are interchangable with the roller versions. CC also agrees with this info. I really recommend their Magnum roller rockers # 1301-12. Lighter than many companies alum. and VERY durable. You will need to have your heads fit for screw in studs and guide plates. With this combo you will also need hardened pushrods, cc# 7372 (confirm # for hardened). I run the positive stem seals and guides have been machined to fit them. Oil in the combustion chamber is an enemy to blown engines which causes predetonation. Springs will be 981-12. Make sure they are adjusted to fit CC specs. Retainers # 742. Please verify all part #s. Some of these are old. The cam # for the 14 psi is current. Manifolds: As I said their are two versions of the Performer. The one you'll see in the chevy manual is the small port design and made by edlebrock. I bought one of these from edlebrock only to ship it back the same day. Runners are the size of your thumb. I begged edlebrock for 4 years to make a big port design to fit the 4.3 heads. After many phone calls I received one of the first, if not the first large port manifolds made for the 4.3 exclusively. This is a good design for hood clearence and with really minor match porting works very well. (Edelbrock emailed me today and said the 4.3 Performer # 2111 This manifold will require the Mallory Unilite distrib. #4770001H. The new design of this dist. is a really clean unit. It features set screws to adjust the mechan. advance. We'll talk about the timing curves later. A large cap dist. will hit the Holley's rear float bowl. The Unilite just clears. MSD also makes a small cap distrib., but I haven't verified the fit. A unilite can be run with the MSD 6AL for example, or Mallory's Promaster coil. I'm going to use the MSD 6AL since I believe rev limiters are a good idea.) Chev. made a cross ram to fit the stock heads, but these are really rare. Many Sy/Ty folks are putting 2.02/1.60 valves in the stock heads for more flow. Something to consider. I used the Manley Pro-Flos 1.94/1.50s. Didn't think the 2.02s would fit. I'll have to look into this too. If you go with any of the chevy alum. heads the new design crossram is an excellent manifold, but pretty high also fits the big cap HEIs. I have a source for some older design raised runner heads and manifolds. A lot of machine work would be required, heads are bare.Big hp #s are possible though. Brodix and Chev. make some really nasty designs w/huge big block size valves, huge runners, huge prices. Let me know when you are ready for more! John Scott [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 19, 2000).]

Edlebrock has the performer. Watch out it comes in two versions for the 90 degree. Find the big port design. Force feeding an engine will make less an issue for manifolds. Comp Cams will grind any profile you want. Got some lame tech last time I called them, but have had excellent results with them before. I'll post some #s for different boosts, etc. These were designd for the engine, weight, supercharger etc. Late for work! gotta go! JS

Pikes Peak? Thats in my territory! Cool. Want to reconsider that AWD issue? Don't want any AWD Tacoma trucks blowing by you!! JS

I ran dual 2 1/2s til behind the tranny then 3 inch to a big stainless turbo. Its loud out the back, and when you're on it, but no where near as bad as some of these hollow cans selling as mufflers. My neighbor has the big high dollar stainless 4" duals. Why bother! Its so loud it shakes my glass in the house 1/2 block away. Its a really sharp note with his 11:1 comp. but I wouldn't want to spend much time in his car. JS

Spence, your horse power figures need to be as big as your ideas are. You'll need some pretty large numbers to even come close. You're dealing with a 25-30 year old platform and making it into a techno marvel.The blending of the old and new is what your project is all about. Otherwise you wouldn't have an old Z in your garage. Don't disregard an older design just because its not cutting edge. It might be more effective than another choice. Hydrogen cell tech is pretty exciting, but you're not going to blow away any Vipers with it,...yet. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 11, 2000).]

Ditto on Spence's comment. Paxton was so far behind the times with their ball drive superchargers.(Designed for wimpy sub 300 ci engines that would only see really low psi, silly, bulky carb enclosures, too. Vortech didn't have a clue how to blow through a carb. and didn't have any kits for the chevy. (Vortech was started by a paxton runaway. I talked to him about the possibilities, he seemed pretty set on dealing with whatever was going to make his company the most $$. Wasn't interested in my project. ATI was the first to engineer a really good gear drive transmission, 20+ psi, + the first to offer the intercooler kits. The others after badmouthing ATI for their intercoolers are now all offering a "similar" kit. ATI has challenged all the competitors to a independent dyno test, AND the track. Vortec chickened out! Never saw a NOVI Paxton until Procharger came out and showed 'em how to do it! They're also reasonably priced, give great results, and aren't afraid to try different applications. I wouldn't give you a nickel for an over priced/rated paxton. BTW I wasted a S trim Vortec Cobra so bad he didn't know what blew by him! Four valves and all! There,...I feel better. Thanks, Michael for the info on the reverse rotation compressors. This would look really wierd on an engine, but would open more mounting possibilities. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 10, 2000).]

@70 mph 3.90 rear, w/ 25" tire the T5 with .63 5th will run 2312 rpm, the .73 5th will run 2673 rpm. With the ultalight Zs low gears aren't a neccessity to run fast times. Traction is going to be a big issue. Lower gears will only make this worse. I wouldn't think A 13 sec. 1/4 would be hard to get with 3.55s and a mild build. If you can put the rubber down, the lower gears will obviously help your accel. times. Milage may not be a concern, but overdrive makes life a little nicer for highway cruising, and easier on the engine. JS

The only way this would work is to run a 8 or 12 rib drive that runs off of an idler pulley that runs on the OUTER surface of the belt. This will change the direction of rotation. This way the compressor could be turned 180 degrees and face the engine. The BIG problem with this is belt traction. You can't believe how tight this sucker is. I use a two foot snap on pry bar to cinch it up. The turning of the impeller, though very effecient compared to other systems, isn't a freebie. It takes some serious traction to crank up high boosts.The smooth side of the belt would slip badly. A 1:1 transmission that reversed rotation would be possible, but I'm thinking more that a central high mount might be possible. It would still require some creative belt placement to avoid the water pump.You can't reverse the rotation of the compressor. The impeller "throws" the air to the outside of the housing "centrifugal". I'm sure there's a way. 550 hp with around 12 psi boost is too easy to ignore. (350 ci. 9:1 292 cam, stock heads 1.94 valves, 650 Holley, pump gas, no intercooler: data from ATI) JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 09, 2000).]

Welcome to the world of 3/4 smallblocks! I have tons of info. on the 4.3 supercharged from piston #s to cam profiles for different boost #s. This could get real lengthy, I will forward the information to your Email. If you can, go out and buy the chevy power catalog, from a Chevy dealer, the one that details the chevy engines, and their buildups. This way you'll have all the machining clearences, recommendations etc. In addition to part#s, I'll also give you carb #s, jetting tips, timing curves, fuel pressures, everything to get you off to a good start. You'll still have plenty of big headaches, but hopefully you won't have to make as many mistakes as I did. (If anyone else wants all the nitty gritty on the internals,I'll be glad to send/or post it here.) John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 10, 2000).]

Of course, what was I thinking! Spence, you could/would probably figure out a way to fit a quad turbo v16 with a tunnel ram, and still close the hood! A low mount would still need room for 3.5" inlet and 3" discharge tube/lines. Here are some measurements to play with. Overall height: 9" Overall depth: 8"(including pulley) overall width 10.250 (compressor discharge clocked to side) (you can rotate discharge up down, any way!) Dry weight is 14 lbs. Go look at my engine picture in members rides. I refabricateded my aluminum mounting bracket to fit it as close to the engine as possible. In fact I dimpled the corner of my valve cover to make clearence. You can't get it any closer to the engine from a top mount. The compressor housing is almost in line with the midpoint of the strut tower. A V 10!! would put the compressor right where it belongs! Does the ford come with a four valve aluminum block? One other alternative is a hood scoop! Center mounted compressor, w/ elect. water pump. Maybe one like Myrons would allow some play?? JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 09, 2000).]

I saw a nice 71 240 for sale the other day and started wondering what if...this time with a v8? I've taken every measurement I can and see no way possible short of pushing the v8 through the firewall to fit a centrif. style supercharger. The compresor housing would sit right in the middle of the strut tower. Mounting low on the block seems to tight too. I would guess the only alternatives would be roots type or turbo. Anyone heard of a procharged Z8? Maybe I'm overlooking some placement option. JS

My 70+ year old dad, will still put the Bimmer into some nice four wheel drifts in the canyons. First set of tires were under 12,000 mi! My bro. thinks his Dinan Z3 coupe is the neatest thing since the thong bikini! He hasn't said much to me since I forwarded him the Brag Board note on one of our members cleaning up at the BMW sponsored race! Hybrid Zs still rule the road, but with fewer good manners! JS

I have the opportunity to drive my Dad's BMW850 whenever its not on a long road trip. It is a really heavy but respectably, should I say, brisk car. (300hp) What is amazing is how a 4000 pound car can carve up the corners, the totally seamless acceleration, the deathly quiet interior at WAY, way over 100 mph, and the overall refinement of the ride. There is a lot more than 0-60 going through the minds of BMW. My wife drove my father an me back from Santa Fe, with fewer than 600 miles on the odometer, traveling over Raton Pass never dropping below 90 mph! (Permissive Father-in-law!) Lots of sharp inclines and curves here. Mclaren's v12 from BMW shows how to put down some ultra high tech BIG HP. Years ago, '87 Benetton's BMW 4 popper formula 1 car had 1000+ from a 1.5 turbo. The upper end BMWs are way expensive, but they really are wonderful cars to spend lots of fast and long duration road time in. For the money you could obliterate the performance, ($2000 procharger + smallblock= 600+ hp) but you'd be hard pressed to beat the overall engineering, and refined ride. They really are amazing! Anyone know what early model BMW was penned by the same designer as our beloved 240Zs? JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 06, 2000).] [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 07, 2000).]

Weren't the newer Hondas relying on coatings on their aluminum engines instead of piston liners? Can you hack into their formula bin? JS