John Scott

Normally this would would be a walk in the park, but death in family and now health problems. Everything is in the 240 hatch. Crap.Check in when I can.

I like shiny not to show, but I can clean up with Windex. Took Z out today to burn up some gas (and rubber).I mention thus because most people hate their carburetors. Sniper has some big shoes to fill as my not off the shelf carb runs so well. Idle is a nice lope 1100RPM but can go as low as 750. The tip in from idle to cruise or power is seamless. Response tight, perfect. No hiccups, hesitations, burps, just the way you'd want. I can lug around in 4th in town 30 mph and nail it run to redline WOT no problem. I'm expecting all of this and more from the Sniper. All parts are here. Looking like all previous hard lines and braided stainless is going to fit.

Found 17 in Stock Amazon. $999.95 Prime free shipping. Got the shiny. Arriving Tuesday! Pump, filter, fittings all shipping as well. Props to Summit for great customer service and no fuss cancellation. Better go waste some gas to get tank down.

Lots of available other brands, FI tech etc. Fast have poor reviews. Many tbi fi systems look similar. Everything I researched said Sniper is the best system of its kind. I appreciate the suggestion. I'll wait. I cancelled the master kit. I have enough line, already getting a better filter and I'm not sure I like their pump choice. I re ordered just the basic kit which says will be available sooner. Finger's crossed.

Just got bumped back another month on back order. Reminds me of when I was hunting down the first Wii, or lately Nintendo Switch for the kids. Might as well enjoy another summer of old school.

It would be nice to have custom ready to go braided stainless. My list is for instant gratification, but will upgrade lines for long term. I have some braided, but not enough. I'm using the Victor Jr with phenolic 4 hole spacer. Here's an image of the lines I'm working with, sort of. If I move the inlet line to the fire wall from the fender the existing braided might reach the EFI inlet. Kind of odd they put it in the back by the linkage. Fuel pressure gauge? I heard right before the inlet. The return is near the fender side so maybe that line will reach too. Another question popping up is my Mallory Unilite is easy to lock out the advance. MSD6AL. After it is running well, I'll probably try letting it control the timing. Best for my engine 18 initial, 38 total, in by 2500. Seeing more posts around the internet of blow throughs, roots blowers, even E85, Nitrous. Seems very flexible for many applications. "order line from Fraggola"- do you have Link?

So far organizing and ordering miscellaneous fuel line adapters. 2 -8 AN for the pump in and outlets, PN 26-180 -8, to attach to my rear lines. I'm leaving my Mallory 140 canister fuel filter in place as a pre pump filter, 40 micron. I didn't like the looks of the included post pump/ pre efi unit filter. It reminds me of the old 1970s filters I used to pop on my Gremlin . Ordered a nice inline Holley Black billet, PN 162-550 with mounting brackets that is configured with Female 3/8” NPT inlet and outlet to go with my engine bay -8 line and fittings I'll harvest from my old regulator. Then out of the filter with a 3/8 NPT to 3/8 fuel barb, Edelbrock Amazon, PN 8118. Return has a 3/8 to -6 AN 90 degree male hose end PN 750166ERL (included in master kit), which goes into another small adapter/expander -6 AN Female to -8 AN, PN AT9893068ERL, to -8 AN return line. Minimal arranging of what is already in place. I need to figure out how to retain my AED wideband gauge. Two 02 sensors or can they be tied in somehow? That's it, mostly researching Earls, Holley and Amazon for discounts.

I've been a die hard carburetor guy but I think it's time to try something new. Seems this might be a popular system in the near future. I just ordered Master Kit today, Part#: SNE-550-511K Item: HOLLEY SNIPER EFI KIT. Long backorder wait 6+ weeks.

Downloaded the install pdf. This is getting even simpler. So just a fuel pump couple of filters and return line from the EFI unit which is internally regulated. No sumps, regulators, vapor lines. I'll start a new thread when I purchase.

I need to drive my gas tank down to less than 6 gallons, then I can pump out with the fuel pump. I have only been out once this year, once last year to spank a GTR. I'm one of those guys who has drilled and tapped the entire HP Carburetor, metering blocks, power valves,air bleeds, tapped and put in my own bleeds, bought a wide band and tuned for weeks. My carb really works well perfect 14.5:1 cruise, 12.5 WOT, no flat spots, idles 1100...nearly 30 mpg, with a +.600 lift 244 @ .050 108* cam.... weather changes much, so does the tune. Blah. The art of carb tuning is dying out. I'm tired of the smell in my garage. You know, I can't wait to toss it on the shelf forever!

They both sound like a can of worms, the more I read. Might just be better to run an inline EFI Holley pump in the rear,the 12-600 and 12-800 are suitable for hotter locations. Compact (7.5” long x 3” wide x 2.75” tall) for easy installation on frame rails or other tight areas and the new Holley return filter up front. They fit -6-8. Would save me a lot of plumbing, no vent, just my -8 return already in place. 1 line in. 1 to FI, 1 to return. Sure is a lot smaller than the sumps anyway. Holley EFI Filter Regulator; Combines Fuel Filter/Regulator Into 1 Assembly; 175 GPH; 10 Micron Filter; -8AN Ports; Internal Regulator Preset At 59.5 PSI ;

Interesting unit. I'll look into it as well. I'm a little concerned with their tiny 1/4 return and .055" diameter restriction hole in the "IN" port . You still have to run a line back to the tank. The MC Powersurge: PowerSurge is intended for street and drag racing applications where the engine is not at or near full throttle for more than one mile at a time. If you are using the PowerSurge for other applications (speed boat, circle track, road racing, top speed contests, etc), the size of the return line from the PowerSurge to fuel tank must be increased and the restriction in the "IN" port of the PowerSurge must be enlarged. Contact RobbMc Performance for details. It sounds like they have ways of tweaking this for long term WOT etc. Advantages I can see for the FITech CC is the float system lets me retain my -8return line on my Mallory 3 port regulator, and just feed the sump with the healthy 140 pump set at 7 psi. Nice to see what in and out pressures are with included guages, built in regulator 58.5 psi. There's always sucking up and just crawling under and adding a Holley FI pump in place of my other. I just hate to mess up all the hard lines and fittings.. Lots of head scratching coming, no doubt. I plan on going over my system with Holly tech before committing to anything.

Kind of related, but I'm about ready to jump on the Holley Sniper efi. The smaller unit supports up to 650 HP. I plan to keep my Mallory 140 pump and regulator in case I want to go back to carbureted. I'd use the Mallory at low pressure 7 psi to feed a FITech fuel command center, high pressure sump mounted in engine bay. Already have had the wide band 02 for years. It seems they add more features to the sniper every day. Data logging, Blow through, spark control, more tuning control, new 8 injector for serious HP etc. Anyone else considering this unit?

Back in the day I tired Motosports lowering springs. Looked cool, but hated the parking bumps, Apples left in the road etc. I went to the red Arizona Z car springs, the ones that have higher rate, but near stock height. Love them and never looked back. I don't see them on their site anymore, but every now and then they pop up used. Also found with my 383, T56, Aluminum heads, manifold, waterpump, lightweight flywheel etc really lightened the front end. Not as hunkered down but easier to drive around in the real world

Everything can be found searching. Google dimensions of transmissions. If you have to change a bit here there,that is the nature of the beast. I went from factory automatic to 700r4, to T6 speed,pedals,slave and all. Shifter location has been documented well for t5/6

After running my Mallory 140 through two Hybrids, Procharged 4.3, mid late 90s to my 383 V8, its finally starting to show signs of wear. It came with a boost regulated return style regulator, took out the regulating spring in the pump on day one for the Procharger and could hit well over 21 psi at 14 psi boost. I left it this way for my 383 v8 of nearly 12 years, 7 psi max for N/A carb. 1/2 inch lines in and out. Using a return line is the only way to go, keeps gas fresh, pump cool and stress free most of the time. 17 years of abuse. Rebuild kit under 60 dollars and can be converted to alcohol. Not many other electrics can go this long. Just making a plug for a great product.

I've never regretted spending more money for a good product. Why cut it close on cooling, fuel delivery, transmissions, etc. Griffin Radiator. 1 55202 X are the numbers I can still see on mine. 1.25 two row. Even can find on Amazon. Never had a boil over and plenty of hot days, marathon cruises, long summer drive through food, 90-100 degree days. Over a decade of zero problems, no shroud, two pushers. Shroud and fans mentioned above would be better yet.

pm sent

Not an LT1, but gen I. 383, Isky Solid Roller 244 @ .050 613/585, 108 lsa, forged SRP flat tops, AFR heads, forged 6" rods, Scat crank, Victor Jr, 4150HP 750cfm double pumper carb, Ancient Mallory 140 pump -8 lines in and return. 1.75" Rewarder headers. Combo runs spot on with 36 degree advance on 91 octane. 6 speed aftermarket Tremec -lightweight 15# flywheel. 3.70 rear. Sounds like it would be a nightmare on the street, but quite the opposite. I often lug it around in 4th in town with out any bucking or protests. Torque is your friend. Do something stupid, like stomp it on an onramp, 1st, 2nd or 3rd and it'll try and swap ends. Even 4th can break loose on cold days with cold tires. Just need to be judicious with the go pedal. Also well tuned carb using a wideband and many tweeks to the metering block, high and low speed bleeds. I like the old school hot rod in it. FI would be cheating. Well over a decade in this configuration with only failure a water pump to block gasket failure. About a buck. I get mid 20 mpg regularly and have not hesitated driving to and from the track on Nitto drag radials 150+ miles one way. Do over would be a with a bigger cam, underestimated the drivability of a solid roller. And quieter exhaust. Obscenely loud with 3" Aero Chamber. Ear buds a must for long trips. In other words, build it with great parts and enjoy.

Brake Fluid Primer so 3 / 4 / 5.1 are compatible? Any of you experienced brake-geeks willing to confirm this?

Stock hardware, but in great shape, Hawk HP+ up front, MSA's perfomance shoes out back. Rarely driven hard, but seems to do the job at the strip to haul it down in a hurry with no drama, even on hot lapping. I used to run the Dot 3 Ford HD Truck fluid. NLA Wondering what peformance Dot 3s are still out there on a budget.

Autometer Sport Comp Tach reading 5700 in 4th gear (.7), still pulling but red traffic light coming up fast. Vette 700R4 locked converter with my old Procharged set up. 225 50 16 tires (24.75" ?) , 3.55 gears. Had MSA lowering springs, 205 50 16 fronts, slight nose down stance. Felt really good, but wouldn't recommend. What ever it was that day was my fastest. You do the math..

Thanks for the compliment. Scottie was loaded with talent, tenacity, and apparently lots of $$ , ran with it and was light years beyond my efforts. Going V8 was mostly due to wanting the most power for the buck, limited funds. Building a stout durable 4.3 with a power adder is pricey, compared to a generation I sbc. I do miss the uniqueness and whine of the Procharger.

The link above is a V6 swap abomination. To take advantage of the V6's compact dimensions, it should sit tight to the firewall, not just thrown together with a V8 mounting kit. Mine was no work of art, and first attempt at a hybrid Z. Sorry no more information on the custom mounts, too long ago, but that's the way to go.