Tim240z
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Posts posted by Tim240z
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Good question! There are several possible reasons....
* Many HybridZ’ers are engineers' date=' if not by professional occupation then at least by formal or informal training. Engineers like to tinker; once they get a project accomplished, they get bored and prefer to move onto to the next challenge. This, I think, is the reason why some of the most breathtaking swaps end up getting sold shortly after their completion.
* Many folks have reached the conclusion that whereas Z’s are good all-around hobby cars, they don’t really excel at anything – at least not in stock form. If you want a good drag car, you eventually go elsewhere. If you want a good road-race car, you go elsewhere. If you want a comfortable GT cruiser – well, you know. So for many, Z’s were starter cars. After doing the Z swap, they went to something else.
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BINGO!!
The Z car is not the be-all and end-all of automotive options. It is a great little car...no doubt about that. For me it is in the building.....the end result is somewhat of an anti-climax.
I have gone 180 degrees for my next project. Complete and correct restoration of a relatively ancient American fare. I have never done this before...I have always modded and 'hot rodded' everything I've owned....this is something new and interesting.
I'll start a new post with details.
Tim
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Have you bled the rears? Maybe the rear shoes are out of adj.?
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Damned good to hear from ya Denny!!
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I think I'm going to go with my local welding suppy store. Since I need someone local to fill it up for me' date=' it makes sense to get the cylinder from him as well. I'm planning on picking it up tomorrow along with a flip type welding mask (my welder came with a hand held).
Now that I've got just about everything (including a book), I'm going to see if I can improve my welding skills. Everything really added up...so I hope it was all worth it.[/quote']
Do yourself a favor and think about an auto-darkening mark.....I bought one a few years after my welder and wished and wished I had bought it earlier....makes welding so much easier!!!
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Fly there and drive it back
If it is business to business (with a dock) you will get much better prices. Yellow Freight is pretty good.
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The photographer indeed has a very good eye. Nice balance in those pics.
Agreed!! Excellent use of rule of 3rds!
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Mat,
You have mail.
Sparky,
PM me your email addy.
Tim
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Mat,
If you need it, I can email you the embroidery file of the design used for the caps. It will save you a 'set up' fee at the very least....
Tim
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I ran it backwards in my Z, but I also ran a surge tank, fed by low pressure pump to ensure fuel supply.
Tim
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Check out http://www.WebMD.com
I have found some good diagnoses there and home treatments for injuries.
http://www.webmd.com/hw/health_guide_atoz/not45431.asp
http://www.webmd.com/content/article/10/1680_54732.htm
Hope it is something simple!!
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Probably a scanner, not a regular Citizens Band, but then we all know how true to life and accurate that film is, so it must be so
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Looks like he melted his steering wheel with a cigarette or something
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Works fine for me.
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I used my stock lines' date=' but I found this article the other day. It claims that the return line should be the same size or larger than the feed line. Anyone care to comment on this?
In theory I would agree with the above....however, every OEM application that I have seen has the return line smaller than the feed, including the OEM Z28 LT1 application. I based my decision on line size using the OEM as my base.
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I used -8AN for feed and -6AN for return. I also ran 30lb/hr injectors.
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Actually it is stuffed full of 2 cars and the truck has to sleep outside.
Lastest project is off to paint jail next week....
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Lots of info at http://www.garagejunkies.net
There have been several CAD drawings posted there and there is a ton of good ideas (too many sometimes
).Tim
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I used Omini products on my truck and it came out great. I used a 7mm tip for the primer and set a pretty wide spray pattern. You may want to play with your gun patterns on a piece of carboard or body paper to set the gun correctly prior to shooting parts. When I paint cars, I tape up a large piece (6 foot x 6 foot) of paper on the wall of the paint booth. After filling the gun, I always "reset" the spray pattern by testing it on the paper.
BTW, for the color coat I went down to a 4mm tip.
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What size needle are you using? Also, are you reducing the primer? If so, are you using the correct solvent?
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Although this isn't a Z example, I will give you some recent experience I had with my 71 Chevy truck. When I repainted I needed a new hood (old one rusted beyond repair), so for only a couple of bucks more, I put on a cowl hood (more for looks than anything...just something different).
The other morning I went to the store. There was a good layer of water on the truck (condensation from the evening's chill). I have a pretty good layer of wax on the truck so the water beads up nicely.....
Anyways: Even at fairly low speeds (<50mph), I noticed the drops of water running up the cowl, and being drawn (sucked) pretty briskly into the air gap of the cowl induction. The droplets from the windshield cowl (part that covers the wiper mechanism) also were pulled forward into the hood gap. That experience sold me on the "working" of the cowl hood......
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Just my 2 c worth
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BTW, the duty cycle was exceeded many times when i was welding....I welded for hours at a time. I did have to replace the circuit board as I was welding at full amps for about 45 minuted straight...
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I built my entire Z with one very similar to that. It did an admirable job.....subframes, bodywork, etc etc.....I have since bought a miller 115V with gas, and it is much much better, but that one will do the job. If it is all you can afford, it will do the job. If you can spend a bit more, do it.
BTW, since I have a new welder, I can sell my HF unit.....
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Best wishes to all....just be safe and watch out for the loser drivers out there...they are out to get ya!!
Axles for q45 diff
in Drivetrain
Posted
Speedway does make them, but they make them to order and their lead time is rediculously slow (they have better things to do than make sets of one-offs). My recommendation is to get them from Ross at MM. I believe they are made by Moser Engineering. There is a tutorial that I posted in the drivetrain forum a long time ago (while making Mike's set as a matter of fact). Do a search using my username in the drivetrain forum.....
I don't do the axle assembly as it is too much time/effort than it's worth, and with the tutorial a monkey can do it. Mike's set was a favor to him.