Tim240z
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Posts posted by Tim240z
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For questions on building garages and shops, this place is stellar! It is the HybridZ of the garage world. Lots of really nice guys over there!
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IMHO the optispark is blamed too often. It has become a cop-out or patsy for unsolved problems with the LT1. Before you go any further, finish the work. Trying to diagnose problems with a partially complete car is futile. Get the exhaust system finished and the O2 sensors installed. Check the wiring to all the sensors. Check the following:
The resistance of the plug wires. Use an ohm meter.
Check the coil. The FSM will have a check routing with resistance parameters
Check the coil module.
Search the forum. I had a post somewhere listing the value of a resistor to put in line for the knock sensor to desensitize it.
Do you have Bosch platinum plugs in the heads? IF so remove them, discard and get some normal Champions or Delcos.
Hope that helps.
Tim
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I am very partial to this one:
Plus the white will hide the fiberglass inperfections. Maybe a slightly darker/deeper shade of blue for the stripes?
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Jet will find a way to screw it up though!
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If you guys are talking about the plastic 'sticks' that go through the radiator to hold the fan in place, they are likely the same things used to mount tranny coolers to radiators. I found a set of them at Pep Boys. I needed a new set when I replace the radiator in the truck and had to cut the old ones to take the tranny cooler off.
Tim
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Tim' date=' just what material is the seat made from? It looks like someting other than plain jane plastic. Hmmm.
Nice kart.
Davy[/quote']
Just plain old fiberglass....
Tim
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The club meets the last Sat. of every month (except Nov, Dec). I was not able to race this past weekend (apart from no seat time as I just picked up the kart and I have not run this particular track yet), but also my Snell 95 Helmet is not legal, so I have to get a Snell 98 or better (I will get a S-2005).
Boy, trying to find a youth helmet that is Snell tested and certified it a beaatch!! I will be attending the next meet in May. They run the TaG's (Tough and Go: they have a starter and battery) with the 125 shifters, so it should be interesting....hopefully I will be able to get out of my own way!
Jon,
Yes that is an anti-roll bar. I don't have one for the front, but I will see how she handles before I get too woried about it. I have always preferred a kart that oversteers rather than understeers anyways..I figure it will take me several practice sessions to get the hang of tuning the chassis anyways.
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This is one of them. The other 'project' should be back from the bodyshop next week. I have also sold my Opel GT.
I just picked up my Kart over the weekend (unused/new CRG Road Rebel, 2005). I pick up my 6 year old kid's (Kid Kart-50cc Comer) next week sometime. I will be running TaG (Rotax 125cc). Here are some pics: The chassis is new, but the plastic, tires/rims, and motor are 1 season old. BTW, I am looking for a single axle trailer (utility or enclosed) in SoCal for hauling these things...if anyone has a line on one, I would appreciate it.
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Tell the Doctors: "Don't replace, Upgrade"...maybe they can put some carbon fiber or Chromoly in there to make everything stronger!!
Hope all works out, Pete!!
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Make sure the tank is still venting. The fuel cap may not be venting (clogged). Also, pull the distibutor cap and check for wear and pull the plug wires and check with an Ohm meter for resistance.
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I know a guy (firefighter) a couple of blocks from me who has a 2002 6.0L Heavy Duty that was hit in the DS rear corner while parked on the street, which he now needs to unload. Only cosmetic damage, but considerable damage to the sheetmetal. (it's a doublecab).
The drivetrain only has 50k on it and still drives great.
Just throwing the info out there in case someone in SoCal is in need....
Tim
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Sounds like you are 180* out.....
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Seems to have the best prices that I have seen.
If you think helmet shopping is difficult, try find a snell test certified helmet for a child (6). DOT is dime a dozen, but Snell is like hen's teeth!!!
Tim
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I would advise against it also. Your waste will be subject to RCRA regualtions and you will be under scrutiny by air districts, DTSC, OSHA, County, Municiple agencies. You will spend most of your time and money complying with regulations and paying fees and taxes on your waste streams. Have your uncle talk to someone who runs, or has run a chroming shop.
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Welding in shorts and T-shirts and $hitfaced?!
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Nicely done, but I think the tail lights really cheapen the look of the car.
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I used the stock LT1 Z28 unit....not as flashy, but also not as pricey....
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Got my Drill press today!! Put together and it is sweet!!!
I must say, it was well packed and well greased. Not anywhere was there signs of rust/corrosion. Everything went together well with little effort and it seems to work well. I have not drilled anything yet, but it runs fairly quietly and smoothly. I don't have a dial indicator, so I can't check runout, but from the research I have done, runout tends to be very minimal. I am pretty stoked.
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Have a look here: http://www.pacificp.com/forum/index.php
and here:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/
A couple of guys have done it there (esp. the first link) and search around and PM the guys, they are really good about giving help.
Tim
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VoilaCleff and Lewis,
Stop this pissing match!
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In the good ole days a good alignment shop used to be able to put a rig on your strut and bend the bottom of it up to a degree. Have to watch your tire clearance on the inside against the strut, but otherwise a pretty dang cheap way to get another degree of negative camber. Dunno if they still do that sort of thing, its been a few years. For a track car on radials you really need prodigious amounts of front camber.
Yeah, I used to do that to BMWs all the time back in my alignment days. Used a bracket that bolted to the hub, then basically a big 'C' clamp around the strut and a porta-power between that and the hub bracket and pump away to 'bend' the camber negative. I have never seen any shop in this country doing it.....
Tim
TunerCat sells out to Jet Performance
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Yup, I bought the setup (CD with software, definition file and cable/converter) for just over $300.