intuitdriver

I have a 77 280z with an l28et engine and would really like to utilize my 300zxt coil. Does anyone have any instruction in how to wire it, pictures would be AWESOME!! I suck with wiring. Thanks guys

Thanks, that looks damn nice. Looking at your car reminds me of those really nice jags with the louvered hoods. I bet they do it for evacuating heat from some of their huge hot motors.

remember if your brakes fail, you still got about 5 deteriorating braking stops using the pressure built up in the booster. Of course if you got no brakes, its probably a bad idea to go out on the road, but if you do have brakes and they suddenly go out, you still got some stopping left with the booster. When you start the car, pump your brakes really good about 30 times and lift and drop the ebrake about 30 times before you drive. Then get the car rolling and make sure those brakes work before you really drive. Alot of safety systems in a brake system so don't worry to much.

Yea I was watching your vid and if I have this feeling that when you are feathing your gas while doing donuts and such you still have that left foot on your 3rd pedal. If you are on that clutch while doing burnouts and donuts, you can fry it in the time it took me to write this. Also, repeatedly stalling doesn't help. If you are going to drive that car and burn up the rubber, you need to get off that clutch fast. It seems to be a driver error more than anything. Don't take this as me bashing you, it is just my humble opinion. if you wanna find out, take a look at all your parts and make sure everything is functional, then take a look at the way you are driving it. Pretty simple solution. good luck

Thanks for all of your help guys. We decided that since it is a 87 with the lsd and all, that we were going to get the appropriate trans to go with the car and swap my 82 t5 for one of the z31 trans. Thanks

I think the louvers would do more for venting pressure in the engine compartment than heat, but heat of course too. It looks like it is up to us to make a custom hood. I guess I can bring in a pic of a scarab hood to a sheet metal guy and say "can you make this?" Please let me know what mike has to say.

I really like the idea of the scarab hood. I happen to have 2 280z hoods sitting around right now, and I obviously only need 1 for the car. I have searched all our Z forums and I got lots of info on the scarab hood but none on how to get one. So, my idea is to have one made. Anyone got any info on how I could get one or what it might cost me to have the sheet metal fabrication done, I would really appreciate it. I want to get my hands on one and do some aero backyard aero testing. In a couple days Im going to post some pics of my Z and see if you guys can tell me what kinda airdam and whale tail I have. I am the 3rd owner of this Z and it has some aero modifications from way back in the day...

try running the car while you bleed. its what we do for some ABS systems, who knows it may work if it don't work, gravity bleed it for about half a day. just pop all the calipers open and let em drip for about 6hrs

i forgot to mention. if the system is functioning properly, when you start the car the pedal will drop a short ways and stay solid. This is normal of most every car. Also check to make sure the vac line on your brake booster -> intake manifold is nice and tight with little to no wear on the hose. Don't want you loosing brake booster pressure. another tip, be easy on those bleeder screws. they only need to be hand tight + a little more with the wrench. they are fragile and don't need much torque anyway. Ensure that your brake lines are properly routed as well as to not get caught OR KINKED. Those are my best tips for doing proper brake line work. Take those to heart, I used to be a brake and underbody specialist.

This process does no good if the master is bad so check that first bleed sequence is this: master cylinder first: start bleeding the line closest to firewall and then the one closest to you. Do this repeatedly until the fluid flows and doesn't foam or spit airy fluid. Open back, then front, back then front... brakes: RR, LR, RF, LF (standard Z bleed) tell your buddy to pump it up 1.pump pedal 5 times and hold it 2. open bleeder and have him tell you when the pedal hits the floor -make sure when the pedal goes to the floor he holds it until you close the bleeder 3. repeat until there is no air in that caliper 4. check the master to make sure it has plenty of fluid 5. move to next caliper Repeat that process until all the brakes are bleed. This process does no good if the master is bad so check that first

I don't have my bleeder book with me. I suspect i know what the sequence is and ill check in a little bit... but what is the sequence you have been bleeding in so far? Also, bubbles in the master is the easy symptom to look for but you wont always see bubbles. Separate the master from the booster and tell me if it is wet between the two... (just back it off the bolts, no need to remove it completely) If it is dry, pump the brakes up really good and inspect EVERY brake line connection, bleeder screw, and caliper (around the piston boots) for moisture. Your problem either lies with a bad master, or air in the lines. In the mean time do the checks, and ill get you a bleed sequence within an hour or so.

and did you bleed in the proper sequence? also back the master off of the brake booster and check for fluid leak. sounds like bad master

bleed in proper sequence and make sure that the master stays topped off. Also use dot 3 fluid. Bleed the hell outta that master too but you need to bleed everything including the master in the proper order. the entire bleed process should take 10mins with 2 people, one pumping and one bleeding. I think you are doing the sequence wrong. 15 mins if you are using a pres bleeder only because it can take time to hookup.

Already got the answer. late 260z or 280z assembly will go in but not anything from early 260-240

I am about to go to the picknpull and scavenge a clutch pedal assembly for my 77 280z. Our picknpulls are a LONG ways away from me so I want to get this right the first time. On my 82zx the assembly looks more complicated than I anticipated the 77 would be so does anyone have a picture or description of exactly what parts are required of the clutch pedal assembly? This is for an auto to manual swap so my 77 doesn't have a model for me to look at. Thanks

I found this 77 280z that I bought out here in san antonio. This thing is pretty much stripped for weight and the motor is a p90/f54 hi comp. The previous owner I believe is a guy named Troy from San Antonio, Tx. Word on the street is that he moved/ or got stationed in Germany and I am trying to contact him to get some info and papers on this car. If any of you could help me get in contact with him I would appreciate it a bunch. I heard he was associated with zsport's San Antonio/Austin car club however they have so far been unresponsive in helping me. Thanks guys

GO BACK AND LOOK AT THE VID!!! compare the part where he "breaks down" to the part around 2:05 where he nearly stops short of the "stop sticks" That car didnt break down, they spliced that clip into the end to make it look like they caught him. Its spliced and the speed is different but it is identical! Take a look

nice hooters in this one

Alright I am trying to help my buddy get a tranny for his 87 300zxt with the r200 vlsd. I have a spare t5 borg from a 82zxt sitting around right now and would like to see it go into that the 300. Can you guys tell me what it is going to take to make that bolt to the motor and driveshaft, and will the driveshaft have to be modified? Sorry, im not too familiar with the 300zx drivetrain.

Again I have exhausted the search option, google, skyline forums etc and I can't quite figure out if the HR31 skyline's r200 longnose 4.11 LSD is a straight swap into my 77 280z with a r180 diff. Anyone got any info? Im concerned about mounting and axel issues. Thanks

http://www.arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html I am considering using the arizona z mustache bar brace and front diff mount for my 240sx r200 short nose. Is there anything special I need to know about using one of these for the shortnose instead of the long nose? side note: does it affect the handling on the rear having that brace attached to the sway?

Thank you all for your help I truly appreciate it. This has been a fairly frustrating part of the car for me and hybridz gets me closer to a decision every day. Thanks

ALright I have read all of the stickys and threads about the LSD and I have called around to precision and reiderracing etc but no one carries a damn thing in the way of LSD for the r180/200 anymore. I can't spend the $$ on a quiafe and I would settle for one of those crappy OBX LSDs but where the hell do you get em? What is my easiest route for LSD in my 77z? Im about to just weld the spider gears

patiently awaiting some help. Basically I wanna know what i need to do to the driveshaft and mustache bar for a t5/77r200 and for a t5/z31 lsd r200

I have a 77 280z AT with the R180 rearend, I am swapping a l28et with a BW t5, I need to know how much modification i need to do and if i should do it now with the R180, or wait until I get my r200 LSD from an 88 300zx. Im not sure if the future r200 will require further modification or if ill just have to redo the driveshaft and mustache bar AGAIN for an r200 later. Im so confused.