Okimoto

If you're flexible on how the car looks, I have an early s30 with an L26 block and i believe head from a maxima. 'sort of' an engine swap! It's $500 with title in hand. You can spend the rest of your money on a new welder and maybe an LS. The only problem is that it's in Gardena. Too much "character" for a restore but it woould make a great 'rotsun' build. The only place where there's no rust is under the battery tray. The grease protects the surface. Not sure how the grease got there. Not parting out; if no one buys it before I fly back to Oz (and I don't think anyone will), I'll probably be sending it to the big car yard in the sky. If you want to make a road trip home in it, it will need an exhaust, a clutch, and balls of steel. Pictures uploaded to imgur because I'm not sure how to do otherwise: http://imgur.com/a/Y2yGe

A long time ago I somehow came into possession of an early 70 z car, one of the first two thousand off the line. From the looks of it, it seemed like a great car.... but the more I dug into it, the bigger the problems; rust in the rear deck, trans mount, some cracks in the floor pan, etc. I took a year of tig welding and started the long process of learning from all of you here; stepping on the shoulders of giants, so to speak. Fast forward a few years and I'm currently residing in australia. Come back home for the week to say goodbye to a dying family member and the family seizes the opportunity and guilt/'suggests' that I get rid of the z car. I'm a bit hung up on this one, On one hand, I dont even live in the same country and could see their concerns. On the other hand, I kind of liked the z car even though I probably won't be able to get around to fixing it up in this lifetime. It's been suggested that I call the scrap metal yard to take it away as I "don't have the time" to sell it. Do you guys ever keep a project even when you know there's no chance of getting it done? Would you just call the scrap metal guys to take it away? or would you fight for keeping it in case of the odd chance you win the lotto. So... how many of you have a car sitting somewhere, in a situation where you pretty much know that you're not going to get it done.

See this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112915 Same car, more pictures.

I need to clear out the garage as my dad's old storage garage he was renting back when he was alive as it's being consolidated into my garage. I don't have all the time in the world and I need to get all of this stuff packed into the garage before I leave. I'm a bit torn on having to part the car out though. I know it will bring in more money, but being a really early z car, I'd feel a little bit bad about it. It's #1661. Should I sell the chassis complete with the possibility that someone might fix it? or should I just keep some of the bigger ticket parts like the SU's, the speedo, optical distributor, BANG's P90 or the E88 head, etc. I'm actually in the process of putting everything back together as to organize the garage a bit. I was considering the buy-back, but I'm missing the exhaust system. I also called ecology and they offered me $50 bucks for the car, 80 if I drive it in. At that price, I can keep all the good stuff and have them tow the shell. What do you guys think? Attempt to sell complete with full disclosure or get this heap off the road for good? Take all the good parts off and get the 50 bucks from ecology? I really don't know if I have time to deal with ebay and shipping if it comes down to it though. (edit) Pictures always help, huh: http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg138/01661/

Using a basic nikon D40 with the 18-55mm kit lens.

using the 0.42x lens on an 18-55mm kit lens. "with attachment" is with the 0.42x adapter "removed" is without. Both standing in the same spot, with the lens backed out to 18mm. The exif data should be on the jpgs still. In the pictures, I'm trying to get the Z car ready for sale/trade (as a complete parts car / project) or probably state buyback.

I have one of those. It helps for tight quarters. for 30 bucks you really can't go wrong. I'd prefer the Sigma HSM 10-20 for my nikon but not all of us have 500 bucks laying about.

That would be me. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112083 The garage has improved slightly since then, but has gotten slightly worse. Let me attach a few pictures of what it looks like now and it has spread outside too! I have 15 extra tires for some reason! if you look closely, you can see a Z car in there.

A friend used a BBQ lighter attached using two screws that were close enough to create an arc. it sounds alot cheaper than going on ebay for a stun gun.

The real thing is much cooler, in my opinion.

I used to use a HF model helmet. what got me to get rid of it was the low amperage response with aluminum. Also the reflection from aluminum would cause it to trigger sometimes. And it had some dark areas. but for fiddy bux??? that's definately hard to beat! I ended up replacing the HF with the speedglas.

If you can afford a dynasty... I would definately get that. The dynasty has the auto-voltage set too right? That means you can bring it over to my house and let me 'test' it for a few months to make sure that it works. If you need to save some money for that watercooler and a watercooled torch, I hear real good things about the TA185. I might end up getting one at a later date, they're a good deal for the machine you're getting. Nobody complains about them on the hobart boards. I have a Thermalarc dragster right now. It fits in a shoebox, weighs about 10 lbs and can tig weld steel. It's actually kinda nice given its small size. It's not too bad. Plus it has a shoulder strap so you can sport it like MC hammer and the clock around his neck. To be honest, with the transformer machines, I would take a lincoln PT. It really helps me cover up my bad welding haha. Much like the ronco rotisserie, you can set it and forget it. the Miller syncrowave is also a good machine, don't get me wrong... but after using a syncrowave 300 programmer and switching to the pt, I'd take the PT. It feels less like starting up frankenstein and the arc just feels a bit quieter. [edit] The very best machine I've ever used was a lincoln Square tig? 255 I believe. It had an LCD screen, pulser and all the buttons you could ever care to push. basically, it made welding fool-proof. All you did was push the pedal, hold the torch... and the welder took care of the rest. It was like cruise control. Too bad some jerk decided it would be cool to push the buttons with a hot piece of tungsten.

Try http://www.dmv.ca.gov as a starting point. Since your car came from California, it should be formerly registered on there. If you don't have the title for the car in CA, you can try registering it here. If you try and register it in CA, they will probably ask you to send certified letters out to the previous owners, which they will give you the addresses for. With those letters, you might be able to ask the previous owners about the car. using publicly available information: your plate # and the site below, http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/vehtests/pubtstqry.aspx According to the department of consumer affairs in CA, your car failed the smog check in 09/08/1999 about 50 miles east of my current location. That's probably why it was parked and exported. None of this matters anymore, even in CA due to current exemptions of 1975 and older vehicles from the vehicle smog checks. If you were to register it in CA, they miiiight make you pass the smog check as your vehicle failed the last one but then you would be exempt from the 2 year roll. I believe this is what it said in the BAR manual excerpts from CVC. Also, if you punch in the vin, publicly available after using the license plate method, you get the old blue california license plate: 477 LMP The 3V series was probably issued in 97 after the first smog check on record as I had a 3R in 96 and a friend had a 4B in 98. you might be able to find more info on this plate somewhere else?

I'm going to be honest, I run SU's so all of this may or may not be relevant. Does the megasquirt use an injector resistor pack? Just a thought that could be totally wrong or off, but if there were those 'sand ballast' whatever type resistors that would short off on occasion, it could possibly cause that condition where you have less/no activity at the injectors?

Sorry for the confusion. Basically you would take a 1 or 2 inch angle iron and put it against the C channel so that both ends of the angle iron are resting on the C Channel. The angle iron is then welded to the bottom of the C channel, giving it more rigidity. the downside would be that the heat would warp the metals and possibly make it worse? Aluminum is tough for me to control the heat on. I had to make a flat back for my backpack out of 1" by 4" by 1/16" strips of aluminum and when I was done, it looked like a 2 foot square model of the waves in the ocean. Some of the nicer machines with the pulser and auto cleaning settings would have done a better job though but thats besides the point. Sorry. I look forward to seeing your next model.