260DET

Fitting a 15/16 master cyl should not cause your bleeding problems, unless there is a fault with it, such as air getting past the seals. There should be heaps of info in the archives on bleeding, it seems to be a common problem.

Hmmm, ambiguous use of the word 'here' To clarify, most in Australia use Koni inserts, MR2 inserts were mentioned on this forum.

Most here use Koni adjustable strut inserts but they are not, I think, made specifically for the 240. If your struts are to be shortened you will need an insert from another anyway. Someone here mentioned Toyota MR2 inserts a while ago.

IMHO you have the right idea ie thinking about possible improvements to parts you are working on.

If the part you are talking about is not boxed, it may help if you do that.

Bendix Metal King Plus are quite good, think they are sold in the US as Axxis, not Bendix. You may need the model of the Toy donor or else take in your old pads to identify. There are at least two different Toy calipers which can be used.

Maybe a silly question, but are you sure that there is actual toe out? Due to body side curvature, it is difficult to tell visually.

If my Z31 solid rears and Nissan calipers don't work out, I'll be looking at something like Nissan Bluebird U13 front rotors, 280mm dia x 22mm thick. They are 4 stud so they should slip on. Calipers? Maybe Falcon XE-XF rears, they have an integral handbrake mechanism. Anyone in Oz tried this combo?

A SR20DET would give you around 50/50 weight distribution. Around 500 hp is possible, although a block brace to contain engine block flex may be required at that level. Lower weight for road racing is IMHO important in a Z, given that the body is not the stiffest around. Is engine size relevant to your class of racing?

For the fronts, check out the VT Commodore rotors, around 296mm dia X 28mm thick. They should fit in most 15 inch wheels. Search RB30-ZED, pretty sure that he has used them with Commodore calipers, although some 4 spots may be better. For the rears, the solid Z31 (300ZX) rotors slide straight on, there are Nissan calipers (late Bluebird?) that will suit. Vented rotors would be better but getting suitable calipers with a handbrake mechanism is the problem. If you find any, let me know. For the above, you will have to get caliper adaptors made up ie so they can be bolted on.

A RB25 or SR20 turbo may come within your budget, there was a Nissan specialist in Sydney doing fixed price conversions. But then you will need a big brake upgrade, specially for circuit track work.

Yes, the SR20 is a better engine than the WRXs, and its a Nissan. The only plus for the WRX engine is that it sits lower and therefore lowers the centre of gravity, less body roll.

Tyre pressure comes into it too, a lower pressure increases the size of the tyre contact patch so giving more grip.

It appears to have a one piece A arm. The steering rack is high mounted so the steering arms may not work parallel with the A arm. If so, I'm guessing that they may use some deliberate bump steer input to obtain a steering angle advantage in a substantial body roll situation. Anyone?

I don't know much about drag racing, but if the problem concerns the front springs pushing the front of the car up, using shorter extended length springs should help. If you reduce the front suspension droop, don't you run the risk of having the front wheels off the ground more and so lose steering?

See that the new (Japan 2001) release Honda Civic has what they call a Toe Control Link Suspension system on the front, in place of their traditional double A arm system. Anyone know any details of this? Could be worth looking at to see if the principle could be incorporated in a Z, it is basically a strut type suspension.

When fitting a bigger rear bar to my '77, I found that the stock mounts flex, so they were beefed up, as were the fronts too. This can be checked by removing the link from one side and using a piece of pipe on the end of the bar to lever it up and down. On mine you could actually see the stock mount moving quite a bit. Which really negates the effectiveness of a heavier bar.

You may have an engine height problem, unless you want to cut a hole in the bonnet. I'd guess that the RB engine is taller than the VG.

So you would replace the tension rod and suspension arm with a one piece fabricated A arm? Can't see why it wouldn't work well, providing it is properly designed, engineered and fabricated. You could incorporate an adjustable camber and caster setup in the A arm as well.

If you go to the online catalogue here www.dba.com.au Nissan and other rotor measurements are available. In metric, but you imperial-ists can do the conversion, can't you

Nathan, the (Aussie) Z Nationals are on in 2003. All Z related clubs will receive details nearer the day. Look forward to seeing all you Mexicans

The difficulty is in explaining and illustrating the procedure. Basically, if you are using the '82 turbo setup you will need the '82 computer and wiring to run it. The better, but not cheaper, alternative is to use a programmable aftermarket computer, engine management system. A good one will come with a suitable wiring loom, instructions, sensors, etc. Whatever you decide, you still need a basic knowledge of car electrics, unless you want to pay someone else to do it for you. Hope this helps in some way.

Looks like I'll go with Terry's idea and move the Xmember forward. Could fabricate a new one but there doesn't seem to be much point in that. Thinking of a modification to the steering rack mount, using heavy fixed threaded bolts, so the rack may be adjusted vertically for bump steer elimination purposes.

PBR make some rear calipers with an integral handbrake for the US market. I have wondered why they are not apparently used for DIY conversions there. Don't know about the vehicles you mention, but my incomplete list mentions Corvettes, Camaros and Firebirds. The only problem I've had with PBRs is stripping the bleeder thread in the aluminium body. But they are a lot simpler and easier to re-kit than the Nissan ones, and are light.

One of the Z Car Club Q Inc. members, beaut car, even has air con. Yes, roll out the RB26