[Little video of my holset install, start up.....]

I think that was my electric fan shutting off.

 

thats what it sounded like to me

 

 

p.s. I really like the car now... maybe you should make a video of it on the road sometime, i'd love that.

[Future Z owner on the way.]

hmmm how about.... getting a 280z 2+2. they can look really great and well it has a back seat .

[Sudden powerloss]

my problem was solved when i checked the cables connected to the distributer and spark plugs. a coupe that connect to the ignition coil and distributer were slightly popped out, and i just plugged them in, also my air filter was outrageously old and dirty. i replaced it with a k&n filter and so far its runnnig really well and accelerates fine.

 

thanks for the tips, i was way off thinknig it was a fuel problem.

[Another new guy]

thats great man. i remember when i got my first Z a month and a half ago. boy she looked bad and had looks only a owner can love. but i didnt care, i was on top of the world that day. post some pics!

[look what i found]

looks like it is, pretty neat if you ask me.

[Sudden powerloss]

im having a similar problem, car is smooth then would just lose power. then i would try to start it up but it would turn on then have trouble idling at times. im hoping its a fuel pump problem and not engine. well i would like to know what people have to say about this.

[Looking for a little more power (l24)]

thats an easy solution(inexpensive) but getting hold of l28 could take alot more time and swapping it. I wouldn't want to swap in an engine im not ready for, and if im going to swap in a earlier engine i might as well swap in a lsd 5 speed tranny while im doing all that work (Im just not ready for any engine swap at the moment). I just want to add some more power to the engine meanwhile and have fun with what I have before I do anything big. That, and I would like to keep the l24 and just use it till it gives out.

 

Would adding those things add the power i want though? Also, since l28s are brought up, would it perform as well as a l28 with SU's with a mild cam, or better?

 

I read some stuff in a couple of other threads of some people wanted to modify their l24s and it seemed like the responses people gave them was kind of like beating a dead horse. Most people just suggesting giving up on the l24. Maybe it is in a sense, but if theres power there i'd like to get it and have fun with an old l24

[Looking for a little more power (l24)]

Hi

 

I have a 73' 240z l24 engine with S.U carbs(not flat top), E88 head and N33 intake manifold. My goal is to try and gain 30-50 more hp and any torque if possible with a budget of around 1000.

 

So heres what I intend on doing, im still learning, so correct me if im wrong. I did some searching and read that it may be possible to gain 5-10 hp more by using a N36 intake manifold.

 

I plan on getting hold of a N36 intake manifold, putting in a twice pipes exhaust system, and a msa 3 into 2 headers. I'm still reading, but im also considering putting on some k&n air cleaners along with carb air horns and getting the su carbs power tuned.

 

 

 

hehe im probably way off here and could be very wrong. Is there anything else im missing out? or wrong on? if any of you have any suggestions please let me know.

[Just Got A 280z]

try what i did.

 

when i bought my 240z i had no clue on what was what really, and i even bumped my head when i first went inside the car haha. i didnt even know how to start it, or drive at all manual or automatic haha, i was a really big complete newbie at cars.

 

 

but what i did as soon as shortly before purchasing a Z i wikipediad datsun, 240z, 260z, 280z all gens of Zs and found out their basic specifications, engine sizes, curb weights, simple things like that.

 

After that i started getting an idea of what an engine was, and started searching through all kinds of things Z related and slowly started to figure out what some of the car parts functions were, i bought car and driver's book on datsun Z, and have a 1st gen Z repair manual and i read it even though i dont really know what the parts are.

 

the best advice i can give you is to read read read and read. its very hard to start off and figure out whats what, but once you start somewhere it would lead to something else and so on. im not a mechanic or guru but i have learned a good deal since i bought the car 2 months ago.

 

im very thankful and fortunate to have found these forums, the people here and topics are really good and just use the search to find out new things. you just need to have a little determination to learn, but you'll get there trust me.

[Battery died...again.]

I took the voltage regulator back and they gave me a larger one (the guy said he didnt know why they gave me the smaller one, but didnt say if that was a bad thing or not), and he exchanged it for a heavy duty looking one.

 

Since then the car's been starting up well and idling well for about 20 minutes each day since Thursday. But I guess I'm so sure if thats just a temperary thing like some people mentioned about their batteries dying after a couple of weeks. My negative battery cable connected to the chasis has been cut but wrapped around with electric tape and is also connected to the engine. They don't look like they're in the best shape, so hopefully that might be the problem. I'll replace all the battery cables soon. But I would like to know this, can bad battery cables lead to battery drainage?

 

 

 

Also.

I did have an aftermarket radio hooked up, but i took it out, disconnected the cables and threw it away (it was in bad shape). I'll ask my friend who's an electrician for housing projects to help me out with the DMM. how much draw should i have?

 

Thanks for all the feedback and help/suggestions guys, I really appreciate all of it.

 

John

[Battery died...again.]

ok so i took my alternator out and went to autozone and got it tested and it passed.

 

this is the voltage my car's running at

 

the voltage gauge may be broken because the fuel meter says im on empty fuel but i have a little over half a tank left (gauge goes up and down when driving).

 

car starts up fine, appears to idle fine, the only unusual thing i have noticed is that when i revved it up on neutral over 2k rpms, it started idling at 1600rpm until i switched into gears and drove (then it went down to 500-700 rpms).

 

Any other reason why my battery is being drained?

 

- wires might be bad? (thatp possible?)

- what about my voltage regulator?

- finally, maybe this thing might have something to do with it, it was connected to cars alternator before i replaced it.

 

 

hmmmmm...

[Battery died...again.]

Hello,

 

so I bought a 73 about 2 months ago and the link to that original thread is http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112511, car was banged up a bit but I did some cheap cosmetic repairs for now

 

 

So here is my issue and a brief history prior to that. I bought a battery and new spark plugs, and the battery died a few days later. I took the alternator to auto zone to get tested and it failed and purchased a duralast alternator for my supposed Z year car and a duralast voltage regulator. I connect the alternator and regulator but my dumbass forgot to plug in the regulator! and it burned out a wire connecting to the starter and the started failed. So I call a local mechanic, he rewires the starter and puts in a new one and the car is running fine with the new alternator i purchased.

 

3 weeks later after letting the car idle for 10 minutes and taking it around the city a few times daily with no noticable problems other than the car farts around if i dont warm it up for a few minutes and spedometer and fuel gauges arent accurate. I try starting the car last night and the battery just dies. I recharge the the battery and its running again.

 

 

 

Could this be a wiring problem? (the wires smoked a little when i connected the battery orginally without the alternater being plugged in0)

 

Or maybe a choke cable problem (I dont have choke cables connected so i pump the gas =).

 

Or could the alternator be defected or maybe the supplied me with the wrong year by accident?

 

 

 

Here are some photos of the alternator set up

 

 

 

AND

 

 

 

 

AND THIS WAS CONNECTED TO THE OLD ALTERNATOR. not sure what it is, but it was connected to the car wiring and alternator. Told the mechanic about it and he said it wasn't needed with the new alternator.

 

 

Car idles at 700 if that info helps.

 

 

Thanks for your time, hope I can fix'er up soon!

[so i bought my first Z and car]

i've located most of the rust, and the only area that seems to be unsalvagable is the hatch, other than that i've poked at other areas and the area was rusty, but did not break away. i plan on using sanding away the paint, and using rust bullet and black shell to help with the rust issue.

 

then replace the hatch, and put in interior. then work on whats under the hood. car does run well, we drove it on the freeway at around 70-80mph, ran good, it just slowly drips break fluid. other than that it's safe, we had no problems with the car on the drive home.

 

i don't really think buying another Z would make me better off, most of them have rust in one area or another and easily go for twice the price i got this one. doing some repairs would only help me know the car better and help me make a better car out of it. thats the way i like looking at it.

 

with around $400, i can do the exterior work ad rear view lights, and do the interior myself with a little instruction. the only issue is if i should wait and repair the 4 small dents before adding any rust bullet or black shell. im not trying to make this car into a show car, and have every little detail fixed and sparkling. i want it to run well, and have its potential to become a show car shown, ill worry about that stuff later on when i know what i can do with the car. but until than, its time to fix her up.

[so i bought my first Z and car]

Hi,

 

so i bought my very first Z car for $700 and it's actually my very first car. so i had been searching for a 240z for a few weeks and luckily i stumbled across an ad that was near my location. the car isn't in the best cosmetic condition and needs a new hatch, interior, some break thing (not exactly sure, but it slowly leaks break fluid) and some engine maintance. other than the old rough suspension this the car runs fine.

 

i decided to buy the car after seeing good sites that gave good feedback and of course really fun looking movies of zdrivers showing what their cars can do. im a high school grad, just finished vacation and decided to take on a new hobby and an amazing car and thats what led to to where i am at now.

 

here are a couple of photos of the cars exterior

 

i removed the bumper for now, it was rusty and not in the best condition and in my opinion made the car look a litle worse off.

 

 

right side rear you can see the dent behind the front wheel and the nasty cancer on the hatch (seller told me to trash it and replace it)

 

 

rear bumper appears to be in okay condition, it is a little bent but nothing too bad.

 

theres another dent behind the rear weel and is looks a little rusty, aside front the hatch all other rust areas are fairly solid and wont crumble

 

 

 

 

i dont know too much about these cars yet, and have tried finding out as much information as possible withen the past weeks. car appears to be running fine, we drove it about 30 miles home, however the fuel gauge goes up and down from time to time and the meter slowly goes down but the car does not leak fuel whatsoever, only break fluid.

 

given the condition of the exterior of the car, dents, rust areas. what would you guys suggest i do to repair the rust? and are there any hidden or special areas i should look at that i probably havent been able to find?

 

i'm looking forward to all the sweat, time and money i will be spending on this car. any feedback and suggestions are more than appreciated.

 

thanks