Juarez88

I need a black passenger side floor carpet. I spilled gear oil all over mine and destroyed it, and I would prefer not to buy a whole new set just to use that piece... Thanks! John

maybe your wastegate is stuck open? I'm having a similar issue too...

Hey guys, yesterday I changed the valve cover, oil pan and oil pump gaskets because of leaks and wasn't aware that the oil pump required the engine to be TDC. After installed the oil pump gasket I attempted to start the car but it wouldn't start, a friend messed around with the distributor trying to get the timing right that way but that didn't work. So I looked in the manual and found out that I made a mistake by not setting it to TDC (boy did I feel like an idiot). After setting the engine to TDC, lining the pump hole with the punch mark, then installing the dizzy I was able to get the car started. The timing was off at first until we set it to about 20 with a timing light and had the car idling smooth. However, when we increase RPM's are ticking/rattle noise appears and gets louder. At first warm up the noise was really loud, but after warming up and a 20 minute freeway drive it started to quiet just a little. A friend said a valve adjustment might fix it but I'm not sure if the noise would appear because an oil change / oil pump gasket fix. No unusual amount of smoke appears, the car idles fine but we did attempt to start the car with the pump not aligned properly. Did we damage the engine? Can athorough oil change cause the noise for dozen miles or so? Is it possible that the distributor is off? The car drove fine and was a long commuter / daily driver prior to this, now I'm not sure if I can take the trip to L.A from S.D with this noise. Engine is a l28E - Turbo'd with stock turbo ecu and P79 head with 82-83 distributor. Thanks for any input! edit: after driving this morning I noticed a noticeable amount of white smoke coming from the valve cover and crank case breather. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SI1eMo4QMlo&context=C370369bADOEgsToPDskI0OR3MIuXvwEvW0qbShn1I

you can send them to rc engineering and they'll fix the leaks/rebuild them. If you only have 2-3 leaky injectors it might be worth sending just those in. http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-Cleaning-P43C0.aspx Quick turn around, you can have yours back by Friday if you send them out Monday. If not I have a set of used stock injectors you might want to consider that are currently running on my l28et. I'll be swapping them out this weekend for larger 460cc along with sds3.

So My car doesn't have a TPS and is using a 60mm throttle body from a 240sx. It runs, and appears to run ok (little rich) and everyone who sees it tells me something is wrong and I need to get one. The issue is, I understand that there are several 240sx TPS and not all of them are compatible with a stock 81/82 ecu, right? I found dozens of them on ebay and some have 2 wire and 3 wire connectors, which do I need? 3 wire http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Airtex-5S5190-Throttle-Position-Sensor-/280723759502?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240SX&hash=item415c70a18e#ht_1743wt_939 2 wire http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Airtex-5S5292-Throttle-Position-Sensor-/200611921750?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240SX&hash=item2eb566ff56#ht_1199wt_1165 Thanks! EDIT: After looking at both links, just noticed that both are 3 wire, just didn't notice it in the black and white photo. Anyone know which one to use?

Hello everyone, I recently purchased another 240z with an unusual engine combination and have discovered an issue that causes the car to stall under fairly hard acceleration (4-5k rpm). AS soon as I let off the throttle it ALMOST ALWAYS STALLS unless I blip the throttle and shift gears quickly. Sometimes I can start the car up after it stalls but occasionally it wont start up because it will not spark anymore UNLESS I unplug a connector to the ignitor and reconnect it. I was told by a mechanic that it can be that I have a NON-FI fuel tank and I need a larger return line (75-76 280z fuel tank), and that my fuel pressure is really high (around 70). I would appreciate if anyone has any advice or has had a very similar issue. One last and final thing. My car does not have a TPS because it has a 240sx throttle body, should I remove that and go with the stock throttle body so I can attach a TPS? Here are the general specs: Yes it is a NA l28 that has been turbo'd. Engine: - F54 Block - Flat-top NA Pistions - P79 Head - Non-EGR N47 Intake Manifold - 240sx 60mm Throttle Body - Nissan T3 Turbo - Front Mount Intercooler - Greddy Type S BOV - MSD Ignition - Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump - Complete 3†Custom Mandrel Bent Exhaust Piping - Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler - Manual Boost Controoler - Stock ECU - Electric Fan with Electronic Thermostat

hmm... all I can see are rusted frame rails and floor pans and rocker panels. all which can be found here at bad dog z parts(http://www.baddogparts.com/) and zed findings (http://www.datsunzparts.com/) and any sheet metal supplier for cars (rocker panels). Does anyone see something that is really bad to the point of no return?

EVERYWHERE. Look at the exterior parts but rust can also be underneath the dash and behind the fenders. If you really want to see if the car is rust free you really need to take it all apart and inspect it that way. If it has been sitting outside I would look everywhere twice. In short, look for rust in the floor pans (inside and underneath), frame rails, radiator support, rear hatch panel area, rear fender areas, rockers, underneath dash around the front windshield area, spare tire area, around the drip rails, battery tray and anywhere in the engine area and around the windshield wiper battery. All those parts I described are common parts, especially if the car has been sitting outside. If you want to look for rust, I would take a good set tools and take at least an hour to inspect all those areas I just mentioned. Don't worry about rust on the front fenders, doors and hatch as those part are fairly easy to find for cheap. P.S I have seen rust in all those areas and they were all CALI cars.

still looking? I got a series 1 1971 240z I need to let go for around $500. will post photos in tomorrow.

if you can, try getting your hands on a 1st gen rx-7. If you took some time to research and watch a few rotary videos you should be able to port the engine okay if you know how to use a dye grinder. The 12a in the 1st gen is capable of a fairly good amount of power and the chassis are used in all forms of racing today. Parts are easily attainable and cheap.

Kind of sounds like you missed your time to go in on her in some 1v1 ride time. Did you let her know that you were going to give her a taste of the speed? If you didn't you probably caught her off guard big time and threw off the mood. Also, 1/2 throttle on a high hp car is like full throttle on a every day commuter car. If she was that gorgeous and great, get her back in the car and pull out the suave card and be gentle. Of course all this I just type could be irrelevant if you let her know what you were planning on doing. P.S why a baby killer?

Hmm. So the scene that they made you do is pump gas in to you car while some characters race? Did you have any lines or are you just in the back of the scene? Anyway, sorry that you didn't get to race your car or have a big role. At least your car is one of the better ones that were there. So is that the end of it? No more scenes? How were the other cars that were driven there by the owners? P.S whats the blue car next to the blue camaro?

if you haven't heard of it. http://www.diy-re.co.nz/ I would probably buy that if I planned on building a 2 or 3 rotor.

I plan on putting mine towards a 1999 low mileage miata.

So I want to know if any of you have any information that can help me out before I set up an appointment with a lawyer or dmv. Is it legal for someone to part out a vehicle without having a bill of sale or title for it? (in california) wouldn't lacking both of these and not knowing the original owner mean that you are stealing parts and selling them if you do so? Anyway, hope any of you can answer this for me!

this might sound really dumb but I have not seen anyone ask this yet. so the setup weights some 800+ pounds with those heavy 30+ pound batteries. Is it possible to use light weight batteries that weight around 12 pounds like deka etx series or braille batteries for example?

This isn't exactly a racing video, but it has to do with racing. It's from Dust To Glory, a film that follows racers throughout the baja 1000 I saw it from an off road junkie that is part one of the teams (he owns a cafe in my city and always watches this stuff on the big screen). Anyway here's a clip of trophy trucks part. http://youtube.com/watch?v=1UYwBHQHPN4&feature=related Here is a cut down version of the entire film. This cut down version mainly focuses on bikes. Most of the trophy truck and buggy scenes are cut out completely along with a few accidents and fatality scenes. If you really want to see it, buy it or get it another way (internet...). If you just want the free stuff without the trucks, buggy or accident scenes, here you go. http://youtube.com/watch?v=7OtMvwwDTIM&feature=related

sorry to bump this thread but this video is pretty entertaining if you haven't seen it. Miata vs Lotus Elise. R.I.P Lotus

surprised this one hasn't been posted Lotus Elise racing bathurst 3 Rotor Miata at auto cross race prep. RX-7 and Shelby Cobra R having fun on the track NightMasters Round 2 bridgeport turbo rx7 1968 Charger autocross

I would say about 3 240z cars can still be restored easily I didn't take a good look at the 280z but the yellow one with the pantera hatch can be restored and I'm sure there a couple more. Heck I didn't even pop the hoods to see whats under them He had a few good 280zx cars and other datsuns too. a few porsche 944 and 924s and a ford torino. Also, he pulled about about 8 r200 differentials from the car I purchased with the triple mikunis. not sure what kind they are ( haven't paid close attention to the differences or specific types)I didn't know they were in the trunk so it didn't hurt to see them being taken away in a tractor. On top of this, he is a pretty nice guy. He is going to tow the cars for me for a pretty small fee as well. P.S I live in South Gate.

not any zxts from what I can see. a 510 wagon for 100 and bunch of 280zs and somewhat complete 240z cars. Don't be shy guys, this is a really great deal. Those who waited out because of fear lost out big time. To my knowledge only 4 of the 30 cars are gone. There are still a bunch of great deals. Go check them out, hidden goodies EVERYWHERE.

I did. I was in awe when I got there. A fellow from Arizona beat me to it but he only took one car. So many cars, I didn't know where to start. Anyway I bought a 71 wrecked z with tripple mikunis and somewhat complete interior and straight doors and a roll cage. a complete 70 with a straight body, vented hatch, roll gage, blow through carb setup and nice complete interior. Then I'm debated whether to take a straight bodied 71 with weber carbs in the trunk or a complete 72. I'll have them home tomorrow.

Looks like I'm going to head over there in a few hours to pick up a few cars. If anyone wants anything specific, let me know. I'm going to try and pick a few cars that can be restored. Supposedly I have first pick on the lot. Who knows though.

I would think the rebuild kit would bump up the resale value of the carbs if you decided to sell them.

why not go with z therapy? it's $180 with a long ass video on carbs but if you send your old nozzles they refund $50. Also, since your engine is a l28, wouldn't the stock needles lack fuel at high rpm? Seems like most people go with SM needles for l28s. I'd look more into just getting a rebuild kit if I were you.