slownrusty

Hey Mike - I have an original ole skool Enkei brochure from back in the early to mid '80s, if you need a copy of the Enkei wheel specs I can scan it for you. Let me know. Yasin slownrusty1@adelphia.net

Listen to Mat73GNZ - he is telling you the right stuff. No ifs ands or buts! And good luck. Yasin

Hi, I was going to run an air to water IC on my '83 ZXT last year but decided against it for a few reasons. 1) You need to get a separate electric pump (like a marine pump) that is always cycling - extra load on your alternator. 2) You will need to get a separate rad for the air to water set-up, so installing this would be similar to mounting a front mount air to air IC - brackets etc 3) Quite a bit of extra plumbing In addition, the cost was going to be a bit more than the air to air front mount IC, by the time you buy an air to water IC, the electric pump, and the separate rad. At least the separate rad you can get cheap at the scrap yard, but the other two items will have to be bought brand new and air to water ICs are not cheap! I bought an Isuzu NPR front mount IC off ebay for $200 and the plumbing will not be too expensive. If you prefer the stealth appearance of the air to water IC thats cool, I actually prefer to see the shiny aluminun end tanks on a front mount unit. Well good luck and let us know what you decide. Regards - Yasin

Shane, Sweet IC - nicely fitted! I would love to see more pics of how your plumbing looks. Regards - Yasin

I spoke to Clark Steppler over at Jim Wolf and when an owner is doing the 280ZXT ECU swap for a 300 unit, they prefer an '88 or '89 non turbo ECU to re-program for the L28ET cars. He did not get into why that is preferred only that '88 and '89 are digital signal ECUs over the analog signalled ECU on all pre '88 cars and on our L28E and L28ET cars. I would also like to read or talk to someone who has done the MAF swap as well. Thats next on my never ending "to do" list. Regards - Yasin

The oil also does a few more things as well as heat transfer: 1) Helps dampen suspension vibration (which coolant cannot do) 2) Prevents corrosion to the inside of the strut casing and the strut itself. So about 30mL of oil if strongly recommended. Good luck - Yasin

Did you guys see this baloney: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1859936548 The item description says 280ZX and 300ZX, then further down says only for 1990 and up cars with EFI. So I guess the 280ZX were produced after 1990? The seller also has "Zero" feedback - so makes you wonder. I shake my head! Yasin

I'm interested too. Please let me know when you have pics avialable. Regards - Yasin

Anthony, You have an absolutely awesome 510. I first saw pictures of your car when a good friend of mine went to Shasta a few years ago and I have always admired the time and work you have taken to install the 7MGTE into your car. When my firends come over with their new Super Street magazines and what not, I pull out my "510 Photo Album" and show them pics of your wagon and watch their jaw drop. Well congrats - sweet ride. Yasin

Tony, How do you find your car runs with the MBenz 65mm TB? I currently have the 60mm 240SX TB on my L28ET and the difference was quite noticeable. I wonder if its worth upgrading even more to the MBenz unit. I am guessing its off the '71-'81 450SEL - V8? Thanks - Yasin

Hey Bro - I used an adjustable Crescent wrench and it worked out beautifully. Not problems. Good luck - Yasin

I imported three FJ motors from Japan and they are excellent engines. They came in the R30 and R31 Sylines as well as the S11 and S12 Silvia and Gazelles. They never officially came to the U.S, but Nissan Motorsports raced them briefly in the Stadium Truck series back in the mid-'80s. The factory team in Japan raced the FJ20 in a strokedbored version in their 240RS Rally cars and made up to 280hp in normally aspirated form with Mikuni carbs. In NA form they are 150hp stock and in turbo form they produced 205hp stock (in their last configuration). Yes, these engines gave birth to the SR20 family. I have a highly modified one installed in my '84 Datsun Pick-up and it runs hard and strong. The FJs have short-ish rods (79mm) so they can be revved easily to 7-7,500rpm. Hope that answers your questions. Regards - Yasin Colorado www.picturetrail.com/slownrusty

Ok thanks for the input guys! Kevin, I will ask about what the changes in altitude will do. I agree BLKMGK that Water Wetter would be definately a good option and that the air to water I/C is like a big heat, on the street should prove very efficient. Once I get a firm price I will make another post. Stay tuned and crossing my fingers that the kit works out affordable. All the best for now - Yasin

Hi Gang, My name is Yasin and I own an '83 ZX Turbo. I live in Colorado and I am starting to dive into extracting some more ponies from the L28. The cars very strong and I have completed a fair bit of bolt-ons on the car and now I would like to get into some heavier mods. I visited a local performance shop locally that mostly specializes in Subarus but have vast knowledge in turbocharging. I enquired that I am seriously looking at installing an Intercooler on my car and turning up the boost a bit. After many measurements and looking at options the owner of the shop decided that the best Intercooler option for the car would be a water to air set-up. For the following reasons: 1) Almost no pressure drop - Very important 2) No hole-saw drilling through the rad support for the I/C tubes 3) More efficient than an air to air setup from a standstill to around 30mp/h, as an air to air I/C requires constant flow over the fins for efficiency 4) Compact 5) Retains the factory A/C The location for the air to water I/C would be directly above the stock location of AFM. As such the I/C piping out of the Turbo and into AFM would be very short, the diameter of the piping would be approx. 2.5" to 2.75" and will have very few elbows. An air to water I/C requires: 1) The I/C 2) A small external water pump to pump the coolant through the I/C (I am using a boat pump that I have in my garage) 3) A very small low profile radiator (I will be checking the scrap yards to see if I can get something small enough) 4) The hoses to plumb it all I am convinced that this is the way to go simply as I know from a previous car I owned that a lot of I/C piping contributes to a major pressure drop. In addition, I am not keen on cutting-up my car to fit a front mount an I/C. My question is would there be any interest from other turbo Z/ZX enthusiasts in a set-up like this? I am not 100% sure what the total cost will be of the entire kit, I will know by next week Tuesday (Aug. 21st). I will be using my car as a mule for the initial kit and the more of these kits that can be sold the cheaper it will be. The air to water I/C with the surrounding tank will be custom made to the car and will be the most expensive part of the kit. Please let me know. Thanks In Advance- Yasin (slownrusty@yahoo.com)