Jump to content
HybridZ

slownrusty

Donating Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2270

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

 Content Type 

Posts posted by slownrusty

    How Best To Remove Fish Eyes in Clear W\Out Repainting?

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    * cross sand at 90 degree angles. Sand straight up and down, then straight left and right.

     

     

    You could try rubbing compound first if it's just the clear coat and probably not that deep. Then polishing compound and you're done.

    Ahh cool thanks for the technique.

     

    2000 is pretty fine (that's why we use it last)... Even on a small piece, it could take some time to remove enough clear to make a difference. But - can't hurt - try it with 2000 first if you want. I think you'll find the 1500 first, then 2000 to finish will be the better way to go. Both are very fine grits.

    Ok will try the 2000 first and if no improvement..I'll crack out the 1500

     

    DO I need to use a cutting and finishing compound? If so what do you guys recommend?

    How Best To Remove Fish Eyes in Clear W\Out Repainting?

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Thanks guys, the fish eyes are definitely in the clear (versus the base). When you say sand in an "X"...what do you mean? Can I buy a sanding block and go back and forth or rather across as the spoiler is narrow only 6-8" in width?

     

    Based on your responses is it OK to start with 2000 grit wet and see how that goes, as I want to minimize how much clear I cut (versus starting with 1500).

    Thanks,

    Yasin

    Trying To Keep My Cool! Rip-off Body Shop Wants $600 To Paint Bumper!

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I own and operate a body shop. that price is insane. a more accurate price is in the 200.00 range depending on the amount of sandng/ prep the bumper needs. sand well with 180 grit and remove any spider cracks this is very important to.make sure any cracked paint is removed right down to.the plastic. old paint that still has proper adhesion can be sprayed over. but remove as much as you can to minimize your paint thickness. any bare plastic will need to be treated with plastic adhesion promoter. but I.have side skipped this before if the bare spots are small. and I spray dupont products. it requires a value shade coat before base coat is applied. sand with.240 grit or 320 before applying value shade sealer. I would ask a body shop if you can buy sealer and its required catalyst separate. in the amount you.need to.avoid buying more.than you need. paint is fairly cheap. 30s buck a pint depending on.color. and 80-100 bucks a gallon for clear. a pint of.clear is.more.than enough with.a gun with a proper fluid tip. I spray with a sata rp3000digital with a 1.3 tip. at about 40psi its all it the wrist after that. keep the nozzle4-6 inches from the.surface adjust pattern and pressure accordingly. try not to hold the gun on an angle keep the fluid tip facing the surface and let go of.the trigger everytime you change sweeping direction to uneven buildup. painting is actually pretty easy. the other thing you may consider is maybe they quoted you on blending the adjacent.panels to.secure an.effective color match. find out.for sure depending on color you may find this ti be a fair price if blening adjacent panels was taken into consideration good luck. ask me anything you want. I.can even prob get you paint formulas and dupont product numbers if.you decide to use.their product.

     

    Thank-you for your multiple replies and also the great advice. I appreciate it and will definitely follow your steps. I appreciate it.

     

    What makes you believe the body shop owner is dishonest ? Stateing he needs $600.00 to refinish a rear bumper doesnt make him a crook. I believe he is a business person that is aware of his operarting costs are and understands what is needs to charge for repair. You have a choice to conduct business with him or not. Simple as that. Unless you know what the competition may charge for this repair you cannot draw any conclusion as to if he is priced competitively or not.

     

    You may want to become aware of your true costs of doing business. Based on your statement you could have difficulties keeping your enterprise open. Costs of doing business involves more than just buying a small amount of paint and clear.

     

    I don't want to upset anyone but come on guys . Be realistic. I have been in the business for longer than many on this forum have been around. It disturbs me to have shop owners blanketly called dishonest for no apparent reason and to have those new to the industry unaware of what it takes to exist and become solid reputable entities.

     

    Yasin . Its good to see you not afraid to attempt this repair . Do your homework on what the correct repair procedures and the proper repair materials needed . Your rear 280zx cover should be of a urethane composition . If you need to fill any gouges or repair any tears make sure the repair material is the correct flexable material for the urethane. Adhesion promoter is primarily for todays new TPO family covers which have a release agent impregnated into the plastic. Urethane is more flexable than TPO and as such will require a flex additive to be mixed into primers as well as top coats . If your cover has almost invisible cracks in the finish look carefully to make sure they cracks have not extended into the urethane. If they have you will have to repair the urethane . If you just sand and primer they will reappear shortly.

     

    There also is a difference in how the bumper is refinished . Off or on the car ? Its best to remove the cover from the car to paint. This way all the edges can be correctly cleaned and sanded. This will give you a better end result.

     

    Regards

     

     

    My ZX bumper is in good nick, my car has never been hit and there are no gouges or tears, so the prep should be (hopefully) straight forward. The only real flaws to speak of are where the previous owner used a machine \ self-tapping screw to fasten the plate the bumper, and I would like to fill these two holes. Thanks for your advice on proceeding with tackling the job myself. I already removed the bumper and skin from the car so no R&R required.

     

    Regarding my comment on the body shop owner being dishonest, I stand-by my comments. As a regular Joe Schmo with a (small) payecheck that I have to stretch to cover bills and have some $$ left on my hobby, I felt very "taken-advantage" of, I have had many many many cars painted from small areas to entire cars and I know the associated costs accordingly, and I have never ever been quoted $600 to paint a bumper ever. Some of these Body Shops have to realize that regular guys like me, simply cannot afford this and I felt insulted, I am not an insurance job where they can make $$ off the work. I would have preferred if he would have stated that they would not be interested.

     

    1.5 hrs to prime/block/seal, then still paint/clear ? My painters at minimum get 3.5 hrs for a bumper :/

    What is your hourly rate...curious.

     

    Regards - Yasin

    Trying To Keep My Cool! Rip-off Body Shop Wants $600 To Paint Bumper!

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted · Edited by slownrusty

    So I have to vent....Nothing like getting your excitement deflated from the feeling of being ripped off by dishonest people.

     

    I took my 280ZX rear bumper to a Body Shop today and they quoted me $600 to re-paint it. I just about fainted....

     

    This bumper has no damage and just old paint, which is why I wanted to freshen it up with some new paint.

     

    I could probably screw it up 8+ times and still come out ahead.

     

    So this has motivated me to tackle painting it at home.

     

    Can you guys who have done this please give me an idea of everything I need (recommended type of paint gun and what special primer / paint do I need for the flexible \ plastic bumper skin). I have a 2.5hp 21Gallon 125psi air compressor.

     

     

    Edit: Would you recommend this paint gun from harbor Freight?

    image_12134.jpg

    http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

     

     

    Many thanks!

    Yasin

    ported head-mistake?

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    I am not sure where you you read that the ECU cannot compensate for a "ported head"... because that is not true.

     

    I ran this heavily ported head head with stock ECU \ stock AFM, T3\T4 turbo and stock injectors and the car was a beast!!

    285383421.jpg

     

    246390213.jpg

     

    Port matched intake manifold:

    200146695.jpg

     

    Yasin

    50th anniversary 300zx

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I have a 1984 300zx 50th anniversary and I just want to know whats the most I could get out of it if I was looking to sell it? It's 100% stock. 10/10 interior and 8/10 exterior. Turbo, 5 speed.

     

    If it has cold working A\C and as nice as you descibed, I am super interested. Please post pictures.

    If you prefer you can email me: slownrusty@yahoo.com

    Regards - Yasin

    Wheel Show! Post your pics of you wheels

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I won't knock people who live for fake wheels, but don't you guys feel...well anything when someone with the real deal shows up next your fake, copy-cat, no shame from exploiting someone else's hard work and originality wheels? I just find it disgusting that a company like they can thrive off of BLATANT copies of great wheels other companies put a lot of money, research and manufacturing into, just to be copy and pasted for half the quality and half the price.

     

    Anyways, the 532's are knock offs of Yuta's old black Hayashi's.

    I disagree with your post and find it dis-respectful and "harsh". Personally, I do not "live" for fake wheels per-se and if you know me and my cars, I have no problem spending $$$ on them. Granted I have RB-Rs on my ZX, they look great, fit well and were priced right, finding an aggressive offset \ fitment in a 17-in size, without spacers \ adapters in a 4x114.3mm is near impossible. I was not ready to spend $4000 on a set of custom made HREs which would have been my first preference but as I have aged a little I am watching spending money hap-hazardly on these "luxury" items. Companies like Rota or XXR are profting because many wheel manufacturers have stopped making the offset and PCD specs for our cars as demand have drastically decreased, heck even BBS offered a fitment for Datsuns in the late 70s right through to the '80s. You might be disgusted, but I am loving it...and so is everyone that sees my car...

     

    6157426145_e2a595a4f2_b.jpg

     

    Yasin

    Where is the turbo oil supply line on a 280ZXT?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    I hope this helps, I actually created a thread on this about 6 or more years ago (yikes!) when I did this upgrade, you might find it if you search and add my username "slownrusty", but here are all the pictures from that original thread and some pointers:

     

    Stock oil feed hard line to the turbo:

    61463147.jpg

     

    Stock banjo bolt:

    61463159.jpg

     

    Stock oil fitting and sender to the gauge (bell on the right), threads on the right side of the block:

    62194131.jpg

     

    The parts (hose, fittings) you need for your new oil feed:

    62190406.jpg

    62190406.jpg

     

    Close up of the oil fitting:

    62194125.jpg

    62190402.jpg

     

    New adapter fitting that I had the opening welded in and then re-drilled for the oil restrictor

    62194120.jpg

     

    Re-using the oil fitting and then the I made the Earls hoses. Top hose is the oil feed with the above mentioned restrictor, hose below connects to my mechanical oil pressure gauge in the dash.

    62190433.jpg

     

    Another view on the block without the Earls braided hoses connected

    62190420.jpg

     

    Cheers and good luck - Yasin

×
×
  • Create New...