duragg
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Posts posted by duragg
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Its a fitting into the right side of the case if I recall with a spring and funky cam thing that only works one way.
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I've rebuilt a 1977 5 speed and a 1983 5 speed and I recall them both having the little cam to help prevent nicking reverse. But it can still be done if you are determined.
The lockout cam is hard to figure out which way it goes together. When I rebuilt my 83 5speed last year I took pics of this exact part to verify. I have them somewhere if you want.
Also have pics of the 77 I can dig up from somewhere.
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Dribbling progress....
Half shaft is done. Gotta get that grease and put it all back together and bang it in (maybe this weekend).
Machine shop that didn't said "nah that material isn't hardened. Its just good material. You wouldn't want it hardened or it would be too brittle".
Regardless. its done and will last as long as I need it to.
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I installed the Arizona Zcar solid front diff mount when I put in my LSD. Makes a lot more room for installing the driveshaft.
Vowed to take it out after the first time I drove it.
Doing that other mount kit instead. The one that is lile 60 or 100 bucks? Name escapes me. But I think (hope) it also allows quick and easy driveshaft access (and less noise)
Maybe you already did all this.
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I have rebuilt 2 5 speeds with stuff from Drivetrain.com.
Some things like shifter bushings they might not have.
Edit: Might need to know or specify or specially order if your tranny has the reverse thread nut.
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And where does that grease from in there come from?
Thats some pretty tacky stuff.
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Couple of tacks here and there will be just fine. There isn't much load on those balls / spacers. The original cap is just snap-ringed in place.
Tired of messing with it.
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The intervention of life and other projects delayed this project.
I decided to use a wire EDM here in town to remove .650" from the shaft. I will weld on the tab.
Need to find that nasty grease for the balls and spacers (and probably shorten the plastic spacers a bit).
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Interesting. I run the 151's on my 240Z L28, and have always battled a progression issue. However with gradual throttle, they work fine. If you spike the throttle below 2800rpms, you get a bog. I always considered this an accel pump issue, and plan to mess around with the accel jets.
Here is an interesting observation. I looked down the progression ports and set all the butterflies with their front edge EXACTLY lined up with the front edge of the first progression hole. Then I started the car. It idled at about 2000 rpms. I had to move the butterflies top edge quite a way forward (closed), away from the progression ports, to get a regular best lean idle.
This corroborates with people having to drill new progression holes in the 151's.
From a designers perspective, Weber cast a pretty large, accessible well for the progression ports. This tells me that they left room for experimentation, because they knew that each application would require hole location experimentation. The position of the butterflies at idle will vary depending on timing, idle vacuum, and jetting.
I battled the same for years and tried everything. When I put in the Wideband I saw the stumble was lean and perfectly matched the progression position.
So one day I just drilled the darn new hole further forward and closed off the old 1st hole (closest to engine).
Problem solved. Its perfect now.
The progression port is the "canvas".
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Spoke to Mikey at SF2, they are going to see how it cuts with carbide tooling later today.
Told them I wanted it cut .726": With machinists you have to put a peg in the sand...
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Supposedly DCOE40-151 progression is much different than -18, and isn't suitable for L2x I'm my experience. Same with Dcoe45-152. But there is a later model (152g?) That might be better.
Probably all more expensive here in the distant colonies.
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I had to machine a new progression port so the butterfly would sit in the ideal position underneath for perfect throttle response (and closed the old one).
Lota of work, carbs on / carbs off / resetting everything.
To realize gains beyond 34 choke means the investment in DCOE45s, bunches of new jets, couple grand? No way I could justify that. I'd go ITB.
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I searched a ton before starting this thread and totally missed this one:
Mike (owner of SF2) said his carbide tooling would blast through that steel. (actually it may be "Gub-ment tooling", but in an election year all is well).
If we are eating up tooling, this is another option.
TJ
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5/8" then?
I think we could take .050" off the face of the tip also. Plenty of meat just to secure that c-clip for the retainer.
Spacers;
Rather mill down all the spacers by maybe .060" and still keep them all there?
On second thought. The very outside spacer just cut down by .250".
The others I could zip down .100" with a small ball-end mill and retain the shape.
Thats a good plan.
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Yes I suspect I left the T-bar in the chuck which is a no-no.
Perhaps I can swing by the shop in the morning and remove it before they notice (which means I am only obligated to buy lunch).
Picture is my Yak 50 at KSEE next to "Faceshot" in DM's Corsair (Faceshot from the cool movie "Speed and Angels" for you true gearheads).
The Corsair broke the night before, I fixed it and flew wing on a big photo flight the next day. Email me if you want the supergoodpics.
Tj
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But I am goint to upsize (from 34 to 36 or more).
According to the Weber selection manual with my Power peak at 6800+ and 470 / cylider volume I should be at a 36 as a minimum (at 34 choke now).
Going to 36 on my 40s is easy and cheap.
Going to 36 on new 45s is a massive process including relocation of the Progression Port. Makes more sense to spend more money go ITB..
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Got my new half-shafts today.
Comparing some 1960s vintage 510 shafts Vs 1983 ZX half-shafts... Identical.
All dimensions (lengths and girth) identical. Guess they had big plans for the 510??
510 on the top, ZX on the bottom.
Removed rubber boot, removed c-clip and retaining ring, pulled inny-from-outy. The salty balls;
Dropped the part at SuperFinishers so Mikey can have Toney make some "soft-jaws" and turn the end down by 1/2".
The new shaft will have an identical end, just 1/2" shorter.
1/2" should do??? Guess I should research this
Crap. Anybody notice my unacceptable lathe etiquette that will cost me a 12pack of beer?
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Found this graph from an unknown source on an Alfa BB.
If this chart is accurate it suggests diminishing returns past about 34mm chokes on DCOE40 and is certainly plausible.
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I asked the dyno driver and he said the torque curve would look different but the numbers would be the same.
Might be interesting to go back right now having just put in the new rear end and do a side/side look before I do any other mods or break anything else.
Question I would ask is "In the real world, how does a different final drive change 1/4 mile times" but this is OT so I am deleting it.
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Can I resurrect an old Pinned thread with a new question?
How does a dyno graph change with a different rear end ratio?
Same car, same dyno, same time, just magically switch final drive.
Is the HP and TQ plot identical?
Thx
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Interesting. Hope some others have thoughts too.
I can choke up my 40s to 36mm choke or swap to 45s with 36 chokes. So for apples apples how do they perform differently.
Obviously there is more work in starting over with 45s but ultimately have more capacity.
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What is the flow difference between:
DCOE40 with 36mm choke
DCOE45 with 36mm choke?
Same choke size, different body size. Will the perform identically in general?
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Goal is a scrappy sounding old-school Ratty Z.
Drivin about 3 times a month.
So did you make your original goal or are you getting caught up in the HP wars?
Guilty. Ya, getting greedy now.
I thought the cam was wimpy, but searching and reading now I think my 6800 peak is appropriate for cast pistons.
In reality I shift around 7200 and maybe it is just fine. I have the sheet with the cam specs.
But if I only had 250 at the wheels I promise I would be happy forever.. hahahah
Built myself into a corner with compression ratio and the 4.375 diffy.
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So whats next with a motor like this. Backed into a corner with 10.3C/R and 2818cc and a previous decision to use cast ITM 87mm pistons.
Thoughts on:
*) Replacing MSA 6-1 header and twice pipes with something more exotic would show gains?
*) Replacing DCOE40s with 45s or Mikuni 44s flow more better?
*) Cam seems to be doing its job?
*) Next option is displacement with a tear-down and rebuild to 3.1.
L28 rebuild
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Looks great.
When I saw your adjustible cam sprocket I wonder if those screws should be drilled for safety wire.
You could even drill the cam sprocket bolt in 4 places so the 4 screws would be locked by the cam bolt which would likewise be locked by the 4 screws.
When I built my F54/N42 I got lucky and found my cam bolt loose after about 10 hours of use.
Power target?