duragg
-
Posts
1201 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by duragg
-
-
This rattle started specifically after a mis-shift and hard hit of reverse at 50+ mph.
Drained oil todaqy which was still clean and new with only 200 miles on since my overhaul.
Lots of steel "fines" on the plug magnet. No chunks or part numbers.
Even stuck my finger way up in there and found nothing solid.
Replenished with new juice and the noise is gone.
Maybe when it is hot it will come back. But seems to be getting better (burrs on gears theory).
Bonus: I pulled driveshaft to replace rear seal I thought was leaking but was not.
I think the speedo cable (not even hooked up) is the culprit.
Hopefully this episode is closed. Maybe will help somebody else down the road.
-
I will replace the sauce tomorrow. Good idea.
I can't feel the slightest difference in shift feel, engagement or anything else.
Hoping it will lessen.
-
Missed a 3-4 shift and hit reverse pretty hard at about 50.
Now at idle with clutch out I hear a rattle. Goes away when clutch pushed in and tranny spools down.
And while driving too I can hear it in lower gears .
Drove about 20 min more and the rattle lessened.
Burrs on teeth? Or toast?
It still works flawlessly except for the funny noise which seems to be getting better.
1983 c/r fs5w71b with new bearings and syncros by me 3 months ago. Also, this model has the reverse thread nut.
-
Plus, when it Locked while cranking, it was a hard "sudden stoppage".
Like the starter shorted internally in an instant stopped.
or
a loose bolt or fastener jammed something. But why would it be perfectly free the next second?
Getting paranoid about my new motor.
-
I just had the Dizzy off and the advance is slick and free.
Plus one day I hit the button and NOTHING. Just a massive battery draw.
Starter tested good. But could have intermittent problem.
I thought it was gear driven, but looked to be direct drive.
-
I assumed since I started this project and built this (my first) motor that the day would come.. to pull it back out.
The case for extraction and fixing some things is growing:
1) Front pulley replacement issue (I don't want to talk about this).
2) Front timing cover leak by the head (my over anxious parts cleaning)
3) Isky L490 cam is too tame.. Need mega-cam and put my tower shims to use.
4) Nagging concern about some loose fasteners makes me wonder what the flywheel bolt torque is now.
5) 18lb shaved flywheel too tame.. Need the ArizonaZcar 12pounder.
6) Missed shift caused some tranny rattle that may or may not get better (Burrs on gears or broke).
7) Rear tranny seal got nicked when i put the driveshaft in.
Probably a good time to do prepare for my R200 install and some other upgrades.
:/
Pics to follow.
-
Picked up a replacement starter - fingers crossed.
Will finish inspecting all ring gear teeth (new 240mm flywheel).
A tranny faux-paux today is pushing me closer to pulling engine / tranny for a review of some items.
Thx.
-
That looks different from my DCOE air horn.
Is it for a different model?
-
At about 16 Initial now.
Cranks great when it cranks.
Drove it 10 times since then with no reoccurrence of either.
If it ain't the starter locking up something WICKED is happening internally.
No metal in oil. No other faults.
-
1973 240 with an f54, brand new flywheel, brand new starter (cheap pos).
New battery, new wiring.
Last week after driving I went to start and "No Crank".
A Click - Volts meter went WAY down and no crank so I aborted the start.
Next try was fine.
Fine for the next week.
Last night went to start, flip switch, cranked over about 1 revolution and BANG. Dead Stopped cold.
Like any well trained bozo I tried it again... crank crank BANG. dead stop. Kinda freaky.
Got my big wrench and turned the motor by hand at the front pulley with no problem.
Tried the starter again and it worked flawlessly, started, drove, restarted.
I am assuming the internal gear reduction in the starter is bad?
That or I may have finally located my missing 7/16" lock socket after the engine rebuild...
-
Once they measure the bore and compare that to the piston they know the clearance and you can decide what to do.
When I rebuilt my F54 over the summer the clearance was more than I wanted (.004" if I recall?) so we honed out to the next size and I used +1mm pistons and appropriate rings.
See if your pistons have any mark on the top now like ".50" or something similar.
For sure the valve work is worthwhile so you don't end up with a smoker. Keep everything on the valves in labled bags so you know which hole they came from.
looks like fun! When I did mine it was the first engine I rebuilt (with a little help from some ringers).
-
I agree.
Sometimes I think I should have installed a toggle-switch for the W/B so I can just turn it off.
Or like in my old Mercedes, just hid the display in the glovebox so you don't see it unless you need to.
Plugs pictured below after about 10 hard miles.
I think I am relatively close on jetting, fact is the car pulls hard to 7500 with no bogging or hesitation.
Exception is the transition between progression and mains, but I am working on that.
Recent weather change made my 140 mains feel a little fat, back to the 135s or wait for weather to go back.
-
Those with Wideband and DCOE:
Can you tell me what you see when your Accel Jet hits?
On my car when I trigger the accel jet I dip into the 10s.
But I have no hesitation or drivability problem.
So not sure I need to fix what isn't very broken.
But maybe going down to a 40 accel from a 45 might even that out a bit.
Thanks.
Tj
-
Overdue for an update.
Motor is great. Pulls to 7500 and generally happy.
These plugs below were fresh about 10 miles ago.
Hammered the motor pretty good then pulled them and shot these pics.
These are NGK B8ES which I manually gapped (lovingly) to .041".
I am encouraged that there is no metal spray that I can see.
Running a mix of 50/50 100LL Avgas and 91 pump gas.
Pretty fat per the Wideband with a mid-11 idle and a low 12 AFR and below at WOT.
I swear that my Wideband reads a bit low numerically. Maybe the lead is getting to it...?
What happens when the lead in the 100LL finally ruins the sensor?
-
The essense is:
I can't have the timing start dancing about in the 2800-3200 range.
If it starts dancing at 4000 I am fine with that as the DCOEs are firmly on the mains at that point.
I'll just have to experiment to see if I can delay the onset of instability.
There is a future and a plan with this car so these issues I am dealing with now will help down the road.
-
Problem is the timing scatter begins right around cruise RPM (2500-3500) and with DCOE carbs that is a real tricky transition range between progression ports and mains. I run the motor pretty hard and it is on the ragged edge of detonation. I am guessing the timing mark dances about a total of 3 to 6 degrees. Could be more or less. Tried taking a video but it just caused my Android phone to shut down and reboot.
In the eternal pursuit of making the DCOE carbs happy I would prefer to spend some time getting ignition nailed down.
I want to either crucify or exonerate the Crane XR3000 which has been condenmed by some.
Heading to the shop to lock down the advance weights and try that. If it still scatters at least I know to leave the weights alone.
This type of mechanical detective work and creating solutions is a real pleasure to me, despite how it seems. So there is no pain in this process for me. All learning.
-
When I did my floorboards and rails and extensions on my 240 I bought them from some guy (in Canada?).
Like a chooch I figured they would fit, but weren't even close.
I think beating out your own will be perfect.
I left my tranny cross member in place to help with alignment. Tack welded the entire frame while I was in there.
Can't wait to see pictures.
-
I used the EZ Mini-20 on my 73Z since I found it locally on CL for $100 bucks.
WAY too many extra wires for my application.
I found the wire quality itself to be just ok. The sheathing isn't as durable as the really good wire you can by comercially.
I think if I were to do it again I would just buy bulk aircraft type wire and build it all up from scratch.
This is basically what you have to do anyway with routing and terminating all the wires and trying to make their harness fit cleanly in your car.
The lengths are fixed from the fuse box outwards, so you have to route and trim / terminate at the far end.
Invariably there were do-overs for me and things that needed adjusting and so the perfectly planned layout got messy.
If you were to start with blank wire and terminate at the far and then route up to the fusebox it might be cleaner.
In the beginning I was very diligent with heat-shrink and perfect connections and then the hacking and do-overs began.
But it does all work perfectly, took a long weekend and is trouble free.
Except, like a DA I didn't put in headlight relays. You need headlight relays.
Run big power to the relay right close to the lights.
A big trick for me was carefully planning and implementing the rear stop, running and brake lights.
Get it done and you will have perfect wiring forever more.
Oh.. one last trick..
I left a bunch of extra ground wires and some power wires in various places capped off for future use. (Fuel cell? Pump, gauges, cooling fans).
Leave these tucked cleanly away and next year when you add something you will LOVE yourself for already having a pre-terminated Power and Ground ready to plug into. I already had spade terminals on them and everything. Used 2 of them already for a wideband behind the panel and a knock sensor on the block.
-
I might have guessed at higher altitude a smaller choke would keep the lower mass of air moving at an equivilant speed.
Driving a DCOE car to higher altitude would frighten me.
This is where a Wideband and Butt-dyno are pretty critical.
-
Hey Tony, appreciate your message, but the tone makes you sound like an *******. You ask if i am a government employee? I will let that slide for now.
What part about mechanical devices don't YOU understand? I think its the part about centrifugal governors, so let me help you.
I own 2 aircraft now which have a combined total of 9 centrifugal devices of identical design which all function flawlessly. Ok? Prop govorners, fuel control units, overspeed and underspeed controllers, mag timing, etc plus a shitload more in various cars and aircraft I have owned, managed, flown and fixed over the years.
Yet this ONE is giving me trouble so I will investigate, determine cause, and fix it. That's what is going to happen here.
Please don't stampede through this public thread with the - I told you so- it can't be fixed. Just give up condescending bs. Ideas with merit are valuable. Typing condescending remarks in all caps is not valuable or helpful.
Crankfire is an option. But I also like the idea of the MSD box that does digital programable timing and delete the flyweights. Today for sport I will lock down the flyweights and see what happens.
Good morning!
-
Why do I need any centrifugal advance at all?
This is a Rat-racer driven 5 times a month, mostly all at 3000+ RPM and full throttle.
A little cruising and idling around.
It stinks, full of holes, stripped interior, NOT a daily drive.
If it is hard to start... even better.
Running 50/50 100LL and 91 octane fuel.
Do I need it for starting? or for pinging reduction?
Educate me please.
-
Machined the slots in the advance for perfectly equaly engagement at the limit of advance.
Didn't do a darn thing.
Timing mark still dances above 3000rpm.
Maybe they all do that??
Its dead nuts steady just below that RPM.
My motor man says the Crane XR3000 is a POS.
He is right a lot more than I am.
So maybe I will just buy a Pertronix and give that a whirl.
I still find it odd that the timing would start dancing like a light switch at a certain higher RPM.
-
I found this in my front yard last night, but I don't think it is related to the timing issue.
-
Fedex ground just came by... Happy FRIDAY!
I got one of these because my pully doesn't sit right at Zero-TDC with the piston and cam at TDC.
Not certain it hasn't moved.
I got one of these too... just in case...
Weber jets??All who live for their triples please read this
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Seeking input on closing one of my progression ports.
I relocated the #1 (engine-closest) progression port .020" closer to the engine for throttle plate alignment which made my throttle tip-in response perfect.
This left me with 4 holes.
#1 in use closest to engine.
#2 no longer needed
#3 in use
#4 in use.
I have been struggling to find a reliable way to close that non-used #2 port (the old #1).
So far every type of sealant or goop I have tried eventually comes out and goes away.
Best luck has been a thin soft aluminum rod I grind to a point and jam down in the hole.
THis was my original temporary proof of concept fix, but has been the only one that really worked.
I wonder if I could put a drop of solder in there? Seems like it would be hard to get the temp up enough to make it set.
Else have a little plug machined.