duragg

A little more race action from NASA WHP-West Track in January. I failed to qualify due to a family conflict so I started in the very back in ST3 class (10 pounds / horsepower) but actually had the 2nd fastest lap time of the entire field. The action heats up around the 17:30 mark battling with a supercharged 310hp ST2 Civic (8 pounds / horsepower) with one of the very best drivers in the club at the wheel. All of our tires were trashed but I managed a late dive-bomb pass just prior to the white flag lap and held the position.

Yea!! Thanks Leon. They really did a great article. I thought it was going to be one single paragraph but dang! Bret Becker was the author, great dude. He told me there are so many M3s and Corvettes in NASA they are stoked to see something different and unique. Heading to Chuckwalla this weekend 2-17-18 and 2-18-18 for another NASA race. Tj

Thank you! That was on 275/35-17 Hoosier A7 or (Maybe R7). I am moving to a different tire size (smaller) of 245/40-17 because I can add about 20hp due to classing rules and the tires are nearly the identical actual size. (Hoosier games...)

A few vids of some recent action with my 240Z racing with NASA AZ and Thunderhill Nationals. I had to start from the back on this race, made up good ground but that's as far as I got that race. Severely outgunned at NASA West Coast Nationals 2017 (Thunderhill). The competition was brutal and all on their home track. Just screwed up is all. This was a fun lap battling with Ricky Johnson in his turbo Mini. I got past him a few laps later, but he wasn't giving up...

Update.... This engine. Is awesome. That is all.

I think my bill with Jim was around $5000 all in. But that included everything. Full longblock with all accessories, engine, trans, computer, wire harness, throttle and the computer and wire harness hacks to make it all work. Definitely worth it. The tranny he sent was damaged in shipping and he sent another.

I honestly don't know what Teves is haha. But I know all the M3 guys I race with use this same system in their e36 race cars. So they put the e46 M3 system in their e36 and e30 cars is what they are doing I think. At some point having everyone with the same system is handy for troubleshooting and trading parts. And these guys are all fast fast fast so I trust them and their experience. Update: I ordered 50' of new 3/16" brake line. I will make all new lines. I bought all new fittings from Swagelok (Tubelok) to make bitchin new lines and bulkhead fittings (no flare type). The mounting bracket is being waterjet cut from .040" Titanium sheet... becuzracecar. Wiring harness should be done in about a week. Still targeting 2018 in-service date.

2 Large short sleeve black 1 Large long sleeve black 85027

I'm on this ABS thing. I've acquired the M3 Mk60 ABS module, paid for a custom wire harness ($750) and ordered all new brake lines and fittings. The ABS module will live in the cockpit above my ECU. Lines will come from the MC (which will eventually be in-cockpit individual MC), then go out to all 4 corners along with the associated sensor wiring. I will have some trigger wheels made on water-jet, tack on some sensor brackets and wire it all up. Targeting completion by the end of the year. I'm not really in a hurry. Installing the module now, then will run new hard lines from within the cockpit to bulkhead fittings on all four corners, and run the wires at the same time. Then when I am ready I can swap over the hydraulics to the new system and done.

Lol https://youtu.be/BJLPkGMh8CU

Best money I ever put into a car: Vq swap And we have it detuned from 315 to 240whp for classing purposes. https://youtu.be/H8uj4kGXZgo

Do you have a replacement that looks better? I have a box with a half dozen of them that all look like that. Really wouldn't bother for that particular gear.

^^^^^^^^^^^ Er,.. No, went the other way after some revised mathematics and PSI finished the shock dyno. Trying the Koni's on a lighter setting with a lighter spring and more roll-bar. Racing this weekend, will see how it feels.

That gear is fine. Run it.

I'm figuring this will be a $6k+ set of shocks. The real deal... so not doing this part on the cheap. I just sent my Koni 8611s back for a dyno inspection and they got a clean bill of health. All the M3 guys I race with are running MCS remote resivoir double adjustables. They have triple adjustables but they are a lot more. I've been working with MCS and they can build a custom solution in the $6k range (plus or minus, likely plus tho). Not a bad price really...

I guess I like stiff things. Changing out my 550 rear springs for 650 prior to this weekends upcoming race. I think the fronts are 550 or 600. Can't recall. No rear bar, can't find room for any of them. 8611s all around for now but they are taking a beating.

No sir, didn't snap. Just the hardened steel ball joint wobbled out the aluminum cone it sits in, so the ended up flopping about. I went back to a T3 drop spacer and steel knuckles, but I miss the slight ratio improvement. In AZC defense, I was running 275 R7 and A7 race tires and abusing them pretty handily. Tj

Wonder if he is making them from Steel yet. The short drop knuckles that is. Aluminum ones didn't like my tricks.

I've been running Koni 8611 double adjustables in sectioned struts (per the Sticky... standard process). But I would love to get to the stage of having something like MCS Remote double adjustables. I've been trying to see if this has been done before, sure it has but cannot find. I can see cutting the strut tube down to about a 2" stub. Then machining and welding a sleeve down into that stub (to assist getting the position and angle correct). Then transitioning to a beefy steel stub to which basically standard type fancy shocks could be bolted. Keeps the strut arrangement and gets a better shock. Its easy to consider other suspension setups, Upper and lower arms, which lends itself to different hubs and different wheel / bolt patterns that really escalate the total cost. Babbling maybe.... Anybody have pics of other strut adaptations?

All new bearings, new CV joints and reassembled. Still some wiggle in drivers stub. Will just make up a new axle next month. Racing at Chuckwalla this weekend so hopefully it all works. Will do a quick alignment when I get to the track.

Took me all day Sunday getting to this point. Didn't have the energy to mount in car, think I need a budddy to assist. New bearings and seals. Konis back in and gland nuts tack welded (just a tiny weld bridge to Lock) New steel adapters and new CV joints. Ready to race this weekend.

I have the new style FutoFab adapters which are steel. The old original WCR ones were aluminum with steel helicoil inserts (I think). I'll see how it feels .

Thankfully I am that aviation tech ha. Plus with the T3 lower control arms the spindle pin debacle is a thing of the past.

Perfect, thanks. I have the whole Hub assembly removed for rebuild also so might just mount and wire the hubs and Cv on the table then I just have to click the inners in the diff.

Anybody have the installation instructions sheet from the Futofab / Wolf Creek CV kit? I am reassembling mine and can't find the torque for the allen head bolts connecting the CV to Adapter. Thanks in advance.