duragg
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Posts posted by duragg
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When I was looking 3 months ago Stroker cranks were $500++ IF you could find one. The whole Stroker setup added a major bump in price for pistons, crank, head gasket, etc and truly only a mild bump in HP which you would quickly grow into and begin to resent.
Possible to take your existing setup and put in a put in a 2mm Head Gasket to get the C/R low enough for turbo?
I didn't trust myself with a turbo motor so I stayed NA which is pretty hard to blow up.
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I just built (myself) an L28 with a slight overbore and N42 head with triples. Still dialing in an breaking in.
But its a cool motor. Growls and pulls cool.
However Denver is going to really hurt you with the density altitude. Get the most displacement you can.
For me the extra stretch for a stroker wasn't viable. I didn't find any great deals on stroker cranks, and the head gasket required was looking to be pretty expensive too. The delta to get past 2.8L in cost didn't make sense for me so I did the best I could on 2.8.
So far my Isky L490 regrind is treating me well. It was big enough to be fun, but not so big that it required tower shims valve cutouts and such.
Do your homework real well like you are so you don't get any big surprises.
With flattops and an N42 head they say it puts you in the detonation danger zone.
I haven't hammered the motor hard enough to hear it yet.
I also installed a Wideband O2 sensor which is KEY for dialing in Triples.
And installing a KnockSense detonation sensor this weekend.
Slightly overkill for an NA car but these things are relatively cheap.
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Interesting input.
I am Normally aspirated with Triples and a Wideband and now this Knock Sensor.
The motor is 10.3:1 which they say is knock prone.
Phoenix air induction temps are a bit high.
Will get it installed this week and find out!
TJ
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Do you like it? (The Knocksense?)
I should use the Datsun sensor, but the guy already calibrated for this Bosch.
Did you have to do any tweaking?
Does it go off much.
TJ
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Thank you.
I am mounting a "Knocksense" knock sensor in that position.
However the Bosch sensor included has an 8mm ID and I need to neck down the block hole from 12 to 8.
Probably use some type of thread repair gizmo.
Tj
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Anybody know off hand what the thread size and pitch for the knock sensor hole on an F54 block is?
Looks about like a 10mm or 12mm but unsure the thread pitch.
Gracias.
Tj
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I just ordered a "Knocksense" from Boris Mohar in Canada.
borism @ sympatico.ca
Standalone unit with a sensor, control box, LED and wiring.
He needs the cylinder bore to tune the device.
Light goes off when the rattles begin is the theory.
Will advise how it works.
TJ
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So far my F54 / N42 / Triples combo is doing well.
Taking some time to get the Triples dialed in and just installed a Wideband Saturday.
Haven't been able to drive it much since I am still dialing in the fuel and having heat-soak problems with the carbs.
I haven't heard detonation, but the darn thing is pretty loud and not sure I would hear it???
Presently there is 15 initial and 35 total advance. I might pull that back a bit before I start romping it.
210PSI compression on all cylinders. TOTAL SEAL RINGS!
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210+ PSI on all 6 cylinders. Thanks Total Seal..
Running.
Working to get the carbs dialed back in.
Voltage Regulator took a dump..
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Just did this.
I wanted a 240mm flywheel and the Arizona Zcar 12lb steel unit wasn't in my budget.
So I bought a new 240mm flywheel and had my machine shop shave it down to about 18lbs.
I did buy the Arizona Z-car pressure plate and organic clutch.
Mostly because he lives near me and I just drove over and picked it up.
The revs are amazingly snappy.
But it does require some re-training on driving to keep power in the driveline when starting off.
Daves entire setup is pretty sweet with LFW, PP and Clutch.
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Great call on clear silicone... Why do I always seem to get the message about 3 hours too late?
I am not proud of this...
I covered the lower and upper case vents and put a shop vac on in the oil fill hole creating a vacuum.
I could feel suction by the leak so the hole is pretty big (don't really want to talk about why it is there.)
Then I used Gasket Shallac and let it draw into the void.
Shut down the vacuum and goooped over the area about 9 more times just to be sure.
Having fun again now! A couple of battle scars aren't no big thing.
Tj
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I suppose that is easier than pulling the motor / head and all.
Thx.
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Got my new F54 / N42 running.
Oil leaking at the sides of the top of the front cover where it meets the head.
The tip of the screwdriver pinpoints the spot. Similar but smaller amount on the other side.
Don't think I can torque those front screws anymore - Fraid of pulling them out.
Does this mean a do-over?
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I just built an F54 / N42.
Many say the mid-10 Compression Ratio is a little much.
I am running a fairly "large" cam which puts my Dynamic Compression Ratio below 8:1 even with the Static Compression at 10.2:1. Supposedly that will help with rattles.
Haven't run it yet seeing as I dropped it off the hoist last night...
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I found a picture in my files that shows some of the location.
See attached.
I think I will put the bung here and there should be clearance all around.
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I stand Corrected. Excuse me.
My linkhttp://www.wmswideband.com/install.htm
The O2 sensor must be installed in the side or top of the exhaust pipe. The installation angle of the Bosch wideband O2 sensor should be inclined at least 10? towards horizontal (electrical connection upwards). Thus preventing the collection of liquids between sensor housing and sensor element during the cold start phase.
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Thinking it needs to be on the side, and the tip should be ...?
When you say "sensor Up" referencing the tip.
I can't remember if there is clearance from stuff on the Transmission side.
So the tip of the sensor pointing outboard and the sensor bung just below the "waterline" so the tip is a bit above the wire side.
Look forward at the rear header flange, that puts the sensor about the 3:30 position?
I just wish I could see a picture of that area so I can be sure there is nothing else mounted in thre.
My engine and tranny are on a rope in the garage so can't tell.
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Anybody with 6-1 headers and a wideband O2 installed able to take a picture of the sensor installed in the car?
If I could see the location and orientation of the sensor I could weld the bung as My engine is on a stand getting built today.
Saves me a dry-install-remove-weld-install cycle.
Thank you.
I figure it goes somewhere in the collection area at the bottom of the header but the orientation for frame clearance is a question.
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I probably should have done an L6 build log somewhere other than Hybridz as there ain't much hybrid about it.
Motor is done, adjusted ready to install.
Spent yesterday and today overhauling the Fs5w71B with new syncros, bearings and seals.
Spent another day today wrapping headers and applying heat shield to the new heat shields and trying to keep the temps away.
That L6 is a pretty crappy design with the headers licking the intake runners.
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I thought they all used the same basic Bosch sensor?
My AEM doesn't seem to take long to get going. Never bothered me much
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So while waiting for lash pads to get ground with an idle mind I began worrying about my Compression Ratio and ability to run Premium Pump gas. I have access to 100LL but it is different enough density that it requires a full re-tune of the Webers and that is just a PITA.
Reading dozens of different posts that 10.19 compression ratio might be too high, but few discuss Dynamic Compression Ratio and so I began poking around on this and found lots of good data.
Dozens of engine Static Compression Ratio (SCR) and Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) Calculators on the net.
This one is simple and seems to correspond with others well so I hope it is accurate: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp
Using all my data I am getting:
SCR: 10.19
DCR: 7.866 based on the cam specs from Isky. DCR is always lower than SCR.
A stock cam would have a DCR of 8.868
Some posts say 7.5 to 8. on DCR is suitable for premium pump gas.
I am new to all this stuff so please enlighten me if I am missing anything.
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Cleaning up loose ends and waiting for .160" lash pads which are NLA.
MSA shipped me .230s which I will have ET Grind to size on Monday hopefully.
Then a quicky OH on the Tranny and start the final stuff.
Still have to decide on which clutch to get.
Have to cut down the flywheel.
Install the O2 Sensor bung and buy the WB
Need motor mounts, ugg. Still some money to be spent here...
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Mil Thanks to Bob Ream at Imagine Injection.
He took my L24 Dizzy which already had my Crane OP installed. Cleaned, lubed, recurved the centrifugal advance.
Previously it was a 24 total, so 10 idle timing was 34 at full tilt.
Now it is a 20 so 16 Initial is 36 total and will come in more fasterer and betterly.
Zcarsource.com had a sale on aluminum 2-row radiators over the weekend for $185.
Got me one of them I'd say.
The problem?
MSA is NLA on Lash pads.
I tried to order 150 and 160s but 6 months minimum. So I ordered some 230s and I will have Mike put them on the surface grinder to size.
F54 Block Knock Sensor Threads
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I ended up using an M12 x 1.25 metric bolt, cut off the head on a lathe, bored a hole down the center, threaded for 1/4-20 threads and parted off a piece about .380" long then cut a slot in the top so I could screw that into the head and then mount the Bosch Knock Sensor into that adapter.
Works fine.
The KnockSense has some known sensitivity problems with most motors at higher RPMS and I still need to do some calibration.
Many say over 5000RPM the engine noise is too high and to disregard.
But it is cheap enough and the sensitivity can be adjusted to make it usable in certain instances.