Danno74Z
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Posts posted by Danno74Z
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Wheelman,
There is that much of difference between the Camaro LT1 harness and the Caprice harness? I had no idea!
Piston,
Since my Z car is a 74 and not a 78 FI model I need at a minimum of 4 more relays to run my Camaro LT1 engine. I purchased a harness from this fellow to do this.
"This is just an example of what he does". This is to run everything on a jeep with an LT1 engine. You don't need such a complete wiring kit. He has a standalone harness with the minimum of wires for $99 and the quality is great.
Danno74Z
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Yes you are correct about the 5 min. wire hookup to the LT1 engine. If all your plugs have been cut off from you LT1 harness which I think you are saying I would stop and either buy a harness that has been made for a stand alone LT1 or buy a used harness and modify it. You need to know what C100, C105, C210, C220, and C230 plugs are because you will be tapping into these plugs with some of the Datsun wiring.
http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm
Look at this picture above. Does your harness have all these connections? You need them all to run the engine. Some can be deleted but let's not even go there until you tell us what you have.
Danno74z
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When I put my engine in this is what I'm buying. It costs more but I think it will be worth the extra cost and some timing can be adjusted +- 5 or so degrees.
Danno74Z
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Well, we have covered all the obvious items and you say all is good so now we have to really dig our heels in. You said that the Opti you have on your engine is used Ebay unit. Do you know how old it is? It could be 10 years old by now, so if you have doubts about it you should change it out with a new one. I hate to shotgun a problem but the Opti is without doubt a weak link in the LT1 electrical system and who knows how much time you have left on the used one you have. I think what people forget (myself included) is that the Opti is still a distributor with contacts and a spinning disk put in a harsher environment then the Gen1 engine. Also your engine and it's electrical system for the most part has components which are over 10 years old so you will have to go through each subsystem and try to narrow down the problem. I know I'm telling you the obvious and I don't mean to preach.
By chance did you wash your engine (o_o) never, never wash an LT1!
Bart,
I was responding to you before I saw you latest note - Good Plan
Danno74z
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Piston,
Go to this link and I think most of you questions will be answered.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105112&highlight=lt1
Danno74Z
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Bart,
I might be asking the same question again - sorry. Did you check the spark with a pulled spark plug? Pull a plug, attach the plug wire and ground the plug on the block. You should hear a snap and see a bright flash every time that cylinder fires. What makes this difficult is you need a helper and a somewhat dark area (careful). "IF" you are getting a good and consistent spark at the plug I can't imagine it is the OPTI. IMO it is the computer or the ignition module. Do you program your own computer? If you do I would try reading the computer just to see if you can communicate with it.
Danno74Z
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Bart,
If it's not a big deal I would put the MAP sensor back in it original location just to eliminate that as being the problem. If you had a failure of the MAP circuit you should of got a DTC33 or DTC34. Testing - Key "ON" engine stopped (no vacuum), MAP will display high voltage or pressure, while at idle (high vacuum), map will display low voltage or pressure. 4.6 volts with engine stopped.
Danno74Z
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Bart,
Here is a little more info:
http://www.z28.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-6622.html
http://shbox.com/1/coil_testing.jpg
Danno74Z
NAPA:
Ignition Control Module
Item#: ECHTP12
Price: $96.49
tax and shipping not included
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You need to go a little further in testing the module to rule it out as the culprit.
Both Terminals 10 volts or more:
With DVM on AC scale, connected from ignition coil module connector terminal "B" to ground, crank engine and observe voltage. is the voltage between 1 and 4 volts?
Both Terminals Under 10 Volts:
Either Terminal Under 10 Volts:
Danno74Z
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Bart,
This is to see if you have a bad Module and we are assuming you have little or no spark because you mentioned you had a weak spark:
Where did you see this? At the spark plug wire, coil, or distributor?
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No Spark - Go to ignition coil wire and disconnect ignition coil module connector. ignition on.
"with dvm check voltage from *harness terminals* A & D to ground".
Three possible scenarios: Both Terminals 10 volts or more, Both terminals under 10 volts, Either Terminal under 10 volts.
Let me know what you find out and we can go from there.
Danno74Z
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You can always go to the Penny Black and down a few Speckled Hens. Nice views when 5 PM comes. Sorry, won't be there this time of year. Enjoy your stay not too hot this time of the year but being 70 miles off the equator it's all relative.
Danno74Z
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Had a web site problem and I think you touched on the fact you don't have any codes now but something must be stored in the PCM when the engine last failed. Can you pull anything from the PCM?
Bart,
You said: The morning that this problem started, the CEL was on and I didn't have time to check for codes before the car show, so I don't know what code was being thrown. It ran pretty good, but it did buck a little bit at very low RPM conditions while driving in traffic. A trouble code should be stored.
It is normal for the CEL to be on then go out after the engine starts. Even with the engine off or not working you should be able to decode the PCM DTC.
Something to try. A defective MAF sensor will prevent a no start condition. Disconnect the MAF sensor. The PCM will default to speed density and the engine should start IF the MAF is bad.
Danno74Z
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Bart,
This might be a long shot but you might pull the PCM and have it looked at or try getting a spare unit and see if the engine fires up. For some reason I thought if the PCM dies it would go into limp mode just to go several miles but I might be wrong on that.
Danno74Z
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Thanks guys for the information. I guess taking off the intake would be a lot easier then the oil pan. I don't want to spin a dry engine.
Bart - your car really looks great.
Danno
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You might try a high temp heat gun (400-500 degrees) and allow the aluminum to expand a little and then whack it with a rubber mallet. This might help "free the twins".
Danno74Z
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Hi everybody it has been a long time!
I have a perfect LT1 engine that has sat (stored) for 5 years in my shop. With an older gen1 350 the normal procedure would be to prime the engine with oil by removing the distributor and using an electric drill and a adaptor. On the LT1 and LS1 models there is no shaft type distributor system so how does one prime these Gen11 and newer engines? The last thing I want to do is damage any bearings!!!!!
I thought and I know it would be some work would be to remove the oil pain and lossen all the main and rod caps and TRY and get some fresh oil under them and then torque everything back up.
Other Suggestions?
Danno74Z
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I to got my cable from ALDLCable.com and like you I did not get the ALDL OBDI diagnostic port that is located under the dash of most cars. I emailed Andrew (andrew@akmcables.com) and he made me a diagnostic port. In my case it is a D-shaped 16 pin port and he attached either 3 or 4 long (3ft) wires so I could reach my ECM. In your case, the 94 was most likely a 12 pin rectangle port. In either case he has the empty connectors and can set you up. I believe he charged me only $10 for my DP but I also bought his ALDL Cable w/OBD2, USB Version cable as I have a 95LT1 engine. Not to confuse you even more but in my case the 95LT1 is an ODB1 engine that uses the ODB2 style 16 pin connector.
As an alternative you can go to wreaking yard and see if you can pull out a GM ODB DP as most are all the same.
Danno74Z
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I have a somewhat unique situation and I'm hoping for a little help.
I have a 1995 LT1 engine with the T56 transmission. I have decided that I don't want to use the existing "pull" type clutch. I will be using the Weir bellhousing with the hydraulic through out bearing - I just really like this setup. I know it is a little over-the-top in cost but what the heck. Anyway, I know a few members have used the Weir setup with the T56 and older Gen1 SB engines but HAS anyone used it on the LT1? I know, I know the LT1 is like other Gen1 engines but it does have its quirks. The LT1 used a 153-tooth flywheel or flexplate as a stock piece but people who use the Weir system run the 168-tooth flywheel on their older engines. Why the 168 over the 153? From what I can tell I should be able to use a 153-tooth flywheel (one-piece externally balanced engine type) with the proper clutch package and the Weir system. The main reason I don't want to use the 168 tooth flywheel is I don't know if it will work on the LT1, it weighs about 1/3-1/2 more and I will have to buy a new starter motor (I think).
Any input would be great, especially if you have the Weir system.
Danno74Z
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Grumpyvette,
If you were going to keep an engine in storage for a long time is it necessary to loosen all the rocker arms to relieve the tension on the valve springs?
Danno74Z
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Nazar,
IMO I would let the computer control the fan like it did when it was in the original car. Then you can program the computer to when you want the fan to come on and off with an edit program. If you don't let the computer control the fan cycle you may pop the check engine light - don't know for sure. The fan you purchased can also be used on non-computerized engines, so in that case, you would use the sensor that came with the fan. Either way you go you should eliminate one of the systems as I don't think you should run both at the same time.
Danno74Z
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Kateman,
Why do you say you loose HP is this your opinion or fact? If done correctly, I don't see why you would loose HP?
Thanks
Danno74Z
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Wheelman,
That sounds fantastic:)!!!!! Did you put the cam in yourself? I like to send you an email tonight if that is OK.
Danno74Z
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Wheelman,
Thanks for the information on the flywheel. How do you like your lt1 with the Hot cam?
Danno74z
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nazar
LT1 are externally balanced engines. To my knowledge ANY OEM GM made flywheel for the LT1 should work with your engine just fine. GM did not balance every individual flywheel for each specific engine. This would take way too long to do when you’re mass producing engines. My guess is and this is my opinion is that they did some basic analysis and said we know 99% of the engines need 1 OZ on the flywheel in this location. If you flip over a stock LT1 flywheel you will see a counterweight bolted to it (it has been a while since I looked at mine). I really don't think GM put individual weights on every single engine. That would take forever to do.
From the sounds of it, your LT1 engine has been modified by the previous owner. Are you sure the bottom end was not balanced. Usually, when you rebuild an engine, most people will have it balanced. If this is the case then you have a balanced (internal) assembly. You will need a neutral balanced flywheel and clutch assembly. This is much more accurate then what GM does at the factory.
Wheelman
You said: I converted from an A4 to a T5 and used a flywheel from a late model externally balanced 305 with a matching clutch and everything works great, no vibrations at all.
Can you be more specific? 153 or 168 teeth? Did this come off a 3gen Camaro? Did it just bolt right up or did you have to machine it?
Thanks
Danno74Z
lt1 wiring question...
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Piston,
What you want to do with your existing harness can be done (as in your link above). You said you have 10 cut wires, ok do you know what those ten cut wire control? If you do great. Wire up some relays for the fan, fuel pump, starter and your done - maybe if you know what you're doing. You can also go this route. Take you're existing harness off the engine and send it to one of these shops and they will build you a harness WITH the relays in place and you will only have to hook (4-5 wires) it into the chassis harness. Bingo Done.
Good luck.
http://www.lt1350.com/
$325.00
http://www.currentperformance.com/eng_mgt.html#Mod
$375
Don't forget you will have to delete all the emissions stuff out of the computer and delete VATS or get a VATS delete module or she won't run.
Danno74Z