Danno74Z
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Posts posted by Danno74Z
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Guy is correct. Even with this system you still need the Optispark unit. All the high voltage has been redirected through the Delteq system but the optical sensor in the Optispark is still used. I have studied this system and others and to my knowledge there is no way of getting rid of the entire Optispark. If you have an LT1 engine you have to live with it in some form. What I am going to do is use an electric waterpump to eliminate the chance of a water leak even starting behind the Opti. and see what happens. That is about all you can do without spending a ton of money to convert the system.
Danno74Z
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Here are a couple of pictures of a modified harness. As you can see from this photo, the harness WITH THE FOUR PLUGS RED, BLUE, BLACK, GREY GO TO THE COMPUTER - THAT'S IT! They are located just off from the center to the left. All the wires with no connectors to the far left YOU hookup to the Datsun harness any way you want. This is up to you to do. All the connectors on the far right go to the engine. A shop manual comes in handy here if you don't know where they go.
Here is a close-up of the wires you hookup to the Datsun. As you can see they are labeled and need to have connector pins or eye connectors installed. A professional would take these loose wires and put waterproof connectors on them and fine the corresponding datsun wires and mate them up like the factory after your satisfied every thing works.
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Nazar,
I agree with jcb3 but if you really want to undertake this type of work you need to have a basic understanding. if you haven't looked at this link go to it down load the document and study it for a little while and the light bulb will come on.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105112&highlight=LT1+wiring
Other people have reviewed it and said it works so give it a try. From the information you have 5 terminals from the Camaro harness you have to worry about; c100, c105, c210, c220, and c230. You need to locate these 5 first. From these 5 connectors YOU will have to use (tap into) 19 pins. C100-3 taps, c105-2taps, c210-1taps, c220-6taps, c230-7taps for a total of 19 connections YOU have to make using the Datsun wiring harness. That is why a Datsun wiring schematic is needed. You can have someone build or modify a Camaro harness for you but YOU still have to wire it into the Datsun harness or pay somebody to do it. Let’s take ONE of the connector’s c210 as an example. If I'm not mistaken it is a four terminal plug. In the Camaro, 3 out of the four terminals on this plug are being used. WHEN YOU HOOK THIS CONNECTOR UP TO YOUR DATSUN ONLY ONE TERMINAL IS USED - TERMINAL B which is a ground, That’s it. You find the B terminal put a ground on it and your done! Go through the other 4 plugs the same way and you’re done. Granted some of the others are a "little" more difficult to figure out but that is what YOU have to do. When people send out there Camaro engine harness to be reworked all the EXTRA wires in the harness have been removed all the way back to the ECM (those 4 big connectors). You tell them for example, I am not running ANY pollution equipment and they strip out all those wires and YOU have to reprogram the ECM to let it know that the EGR valve is gone and so forth. If you do this yourself you still have to tell the ECM that the EGR valve is gone but you leave the wires going the actual equipment alone in the harness as your not using it but who cares it's just hanging out. All you have to be concerned about is the 19 wires YOU have to hookup.
Some of the more experience guys chime in if I'm wrong here - THANKS.
Danno74Z
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From my understanding you don't have to use any of the Camaro's interior harness unless you really want to try and modernize your existing Z but I would hold off on that for now. You have to remember that between your Z and the Camaro spans 20 years and auto electronics exploded in that time span. My suggestion is to just put away the Camaro harness for a little while and just concentrate on you Z small fuse panel/box and the old wiring. Keep it simple for now. Don't worry about anything except the ignition to the fuse panel; fuse panel to starter and the battery hookup. When you look at a schematic even a simple one it can be daunting. Block all the rest of the BS out and go from this point to that point through either a relay if your carrying a lot of current or a switch. EVERYTHING first goes through the fuse panel (or should). Do one circuit at a time.
Danno74Z
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To me, I think it will work. Great job! After you have it all mocked up (and you can get a long belt) you can get both brackets powder coated
Danno74Z
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73LT1Z
I sent you a picture of a LT4 engine serpentine belt routing. I understand what you are doing with both pulleys but how are you routing the belt on the driver's side without the compressor over there any more? To me it looks like you have to add a small pulley where the AC was to clear things with the belt.
Danno74Z
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This March system will fit under the Z hood - expensive though.
From this picture you can see the original placement of the LT1 alt. using the bower setup which also comes very close to the strut tower as another member is adapting to fit in the Z. But if you put the Corvette bracket on and use its alt location for the compressor it MIGHT JUST WORK! Routing the belt might be a issue and I think going under the water pump like bower's does is the right way (and safer) to do it.
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73LT1Z,
You get an A+ for effort, now others don't have to go down this road - thanks for trying!
I thought about what you said in option 1 and I too thought about combining both systems to make a "Hybrid AC"
system. I have looked at other after market systems that mount both AC and ALT up a lot higher and they fit under the hood. Trying to visualize the AC compressor where the alt is now and I don't think it will be any higher the stock LT1 alt. Do you have to cut off the Corvette AC compressor bracket mount or is that a bolt on?Danno74Z
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jbc,
Can you email me as I am having problems emailing you through HybridZ.
Thanks
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Nazar,
Go to this thread to get started: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105112&highlight=lt1
73LT1Z has authored a fine document on wiring up an LT1 engine in the Z.
I too don't have the LT1 ODB1 port but once you have the diagram in front of you and study it for a few minutes you will see only three wires are needed to go to the ALDL connector/port inside the car. There were two styles of ALDL connectors a 12-pin style (94 and older) and 16-pin D shaped (95 and newer) I believe this style is also used on ODB2 systems. In a nutshell you have a ground, mode select, and serial data line that you need to connect to this connector. AKM electronics has a good writeup on this and can provide cables to edit the PCM. I plan on going to a salvage yard and just get a newer GM ALDL connector (leave long leads on wires) and tap into the appropriate plug from the engine harness.
Danno74z
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Mike,
Found this web site a long time ago - helps a little on the LSD.
http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsdtech.html
Danno74Z
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Here is a heads on shot of Bower's LT1 A/C Brackets.
Danno74Z
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I like it! What about your fan?
Danno74Z
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73LT1Z
I too have all the Corvette parts to swap over to the driver's side mount (just have not had the time) I did take a measurement of the balancer and it is 2.25" thick whereas the Camaro balancer is 1-5/16" thick. It does have the same # of ribs in the belt.
I don't think anyone here has done the Corvette accessory swap!
Danno74Z
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73LT1Z,
Looking at your pictures with the vette bracket installed on your engine, it appears that the compressor will smack into the strut tower. Just wondering if you have taken measurements on this?
Danno74Z
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73LT1Z,
I think I understand what you are doing but you may run into a problem with the Vette balancer. I maybe wrong, but I don't think the Vette balancer will fit on the Camaro hub number one, two the Vette hub is longer then the Camaro hub and last I believe the Camaro uses a 8 rib serpentine belt and the Vette uses an 11 rib one. You may have problems with the other pulleys in the system.
Danno74Z
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jaime240z,
Since you are using Mondern Motorsports axles do you have to use your old spacers (I believe there were three different sizes A,B,C) with this new set-up?
Danno74Z
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Bartman,
I have been following along with your install and I wanted to let you know that in the summer 2005 edition of Sport Z mag on page 52 is an article on swapping out A/C units in older Zs. This builder was updating the A/C in an 80 280ZX and is using the Vintage Air GENII Compac unit. If you need a copy of the article let me know. Also, you can contact (email) the builder (Ron) at rondaugherty@earthlink.net for questions.
Danno74Z
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Hi Pop N Wood,
I have a stock 95 LT1 & T56 out of a Camaro (w 25k) waiting to go into my Z. I've had the engine for about 4 years now in storage and it is time to move on the project. Too many other life issues but I won't get into that!
I was just curious on the power made between the two engines - stock to stock comparison. Naturally, with better heads, cams and $ the sky is the limit with either engine. As a side note, the LS1 engine produces about 50 hp more then the LT1 right from the start. It also is more expensive to purchase either from a Chevy dealer or the wreaking yard. From what I can tell through my readings the LS1 has better heads, cam, and intake then the LT1. If someone wanted to spend ~ $2K on the LT1 engine with say AFR195 heads and a CC cam, power levels surpass the stock LS1 and then you get into how much money you want to spend for additional HP and torque.
I have a friend who has a Z car with the ZZ4 and T56 combo in it and it is scary fast even here in CO at 5K feet. Power is down 20% because of the altitude but you can't do a whole lot about that.
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I found what I was looking for in Super Rod. The stock LT1 stripped to the bare necessities was dyno rated at 363HP &390LB-FT of torque. The ZZ4 is rated at 355HP and 406LB-FT of torque. I would say these engines are very close to each other.
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Thanks for the info about the LT1. I'm interested in the 95 LT1 from a Camaro - CI block with Alum. head version compaired to the ZZ4 engine. Can't seem to find anything that can say which engine is more powerful - stock to stock output. I not sure but I belive the ZZ4 used the L98 alum. head. Likewise the LT1 had better heads but used a milder cam then the ZZ4. Probably a wash when it's all said and done
Danno74Z
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I might be comparing apples to oranges but does anyone have reliable information on the HP output to both the stock 95LT1 and the ZZ4 engines. I can’t seem to find (might not exist) information on the LT1 as a bone stock engine as compared to the ZZ4 crate engine. I know the specs for each but they are not equivalent. Any help would be most appreciated – Happy Turkey Day To All!
Danno74Z
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I wonder how it compares to the DTE DynaSpark Optispark?
http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm
They offer a 12 month/15000 mile warranty on their billet unit but it does cost $600.
Danno74z
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HotRod Mag: "The General Motors small-block Gen III LS1 V-8 has been around since 1997, but many enthusiasts are still learning about its great features". Article goes on to say: "As a final exclamation point on the design, this block turned out to be lighter, smaller, more rigid, and more usage-flexible than any other production small-block V-8 GM has ever built". I agree with Mike's assessment in that it is an advance engine with a lot of technology but it is still classified as a "small-block" by the general automotive world.
Danno74Z
Ditch the optispark?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Wheelman,
I was going to mention the Dynaspark Opti Replacement but the product line has been sold. I would not jump to buy this product at this time. First, the web site is not up and running for the new company and second I did not think they had a very good warrantee to begin with. 12 month or 12K miles for a "Bullet Proof" product....well that is not so bullet proof to me. Three years or 36k is more like it especially when the product costs almost $600. I would rather buy a GM replacement Optispark off of Ebay for $300 and take the other $200 and buy the electric WP. With the electric pump free's up a few HP and reduce the chance of a leak killing the optispark. The vented type Opti also reduces the vapor and moisture too.
Danno74Z