Nealio240z

I recently found myself with an abundance of drag slicks (for free). Im currently running 14" rims. I need two 15" x 8" with a stock 4 lug pattern to run these in the back... Anyone got two steelies or anyhting that matches that discription lying around? I dont need anything fancy- just functionable. or got any ideas of what fits and where to find them for cheap??? Slicks are goodyear eagles 27"x9"x15". I would really appreciate the help... Thank you

Whats what on a Q-jet carb???

I have a pertronix HEI unit with mechanical advance and vacuum advance. I also have a Q-jet carb... My question is; where on the Q-jet carb Should I put my vacuum advance "suction" line? Does it go on the top passenger side or the bottom driver side? I dont know which is full vauuum port and which is not... What does the distributor require for a vacuum port? Please help school the retarded -(me)

Ill give it a try this weekend and let ya know what I find....

I have a tarus fan with two wires coming out of it---Im assuming that this means it is a one speed fan... It also has a shroud. I think the shroud is too close to the radiator and causing blockage... Is it enough flow to keep it cool?

Another question--- How many cfm does a ford tarus fan put out?? (single speed). And how many cfm of flow is needed for a sbc to keep cool? Could my shroud be keeping air from flowing through the radiator while driving? -It covers most of the radiator, -is it acting as a blockage???

K.. I hear ya loud and clear. To put it into detail -- why doesnt it cool down after freeway driving when im at an idle? And how come Im running a 160 thermostat and around town it runs around 210? shouldnt it be about 175?--- (im still gonna put a scoop under the car though)

Crap I dont have a web cam or digital camera @ work... Any block and heads from 1986-1994 should be the same as I have if that helps. ---------sorry...

The hesd gasket doesnt have any hole larger or smaller than the others. The small holes in the gasket for the water jacket are the same size in the front as the back... I have two temp senders- one in the back and one in the front, both in the intake manifold. I havent got new gaskets yet, because I just pulled everything apart yesterday... I flushed the block and inspected the water jackets all around the motor and nothing was astray... If not the gaskets- than what else could it be? Its a 90's motor and I dont think ill find gaskets that are open holes for the water to flow through. - So I might have to punch my own... Has anyone else had this problem? Is anyone running the same set up as me? Anyone running a 90's motor w/ a carb, and not throttle body??? Please tell me that im on the right track...........

Well I tore into my engine this weekend and took off the heads. At least this way I could rule out the head gaskets... Or so I thought... The heads and the block both have a 1" hole for the water jackets, but the STUPID HEAD GASKETS only has one little 1/8" hole in them, blocking off most of my cooling capacity... come to find out that that motor was throttle body injected and they wanted to run it hot on purpose for emission control... What a load of crap... All that work for nothing... Thanks to all of you for your help. I couldnt have solved the problem without reasoning it out with others...

Its a 1978 280z hood with the "cooling holes" on each side. I replaced the cooling slats with fiberglass vents from motorsports. They face back to the driver and leave a 2" x 4" opening for air to escape... Iv also ran the car with the hood off and the problem is still present but it takes longer to over heat... I just found out that the motor has had alumina-seal through it before. Could it still be clogging something in the heads or block?

Im using a TH-350 w/ 3.90:1 ratio with 27" tires. I run 3000rpm @ 60mph. I have a cowled hood from a 1978 280Z with fiberglass vents... The hoses are internal coiled rubber. Im statring to think that the headgaskets are wrong for the year, or the block is clogged with something...

I forgot to mention that the engine is a 1986-1994, with vortec heads. I dont know if that is going to help or not... Is this a common problem? I just went for a ride and it did a steady increase in temp up to 240 degrees!!! Could there be something in the engine that is clogged, like a water jacket or the wrong headgaskets? Im at the end of my rope here and dont know what to do about this...

The radiator sits vertical. I just changed the water pump last night and there is no difference in temp...RRRRRRR. made me mad... I got a 160 thermostat and it still runs at 200+ degrees. Maybe I need to direct more air to the rad using some type of scoop?

Iv always had the problem... Im using a ford tarus fan and shroud. I have two temp guages- one digital, one not. Does that help?...

I have had this problem for some time now.. Iv replaced my hoses to steel braided, i got a 4 core radiator, and a 160 thermostat. Iv changed out everything but the waterpump. My 1990 350 still heats up on the freeway. Runs fine around town. Could my water pump be bad and show no physical signs? Any help would be appreciated...

Im running a mild cam that pulls from 1600rpm to 5400rpm... It was doing this before I cammed it... As far as valve springs goes they are stock, but it will rev to 6000 rpm in neutral with no load. when it hits 4500rpm it falls flat on its face, (like I suddenly picked up 2000 pounds) if I hold the pedal down at this rpm it will slowly creep past that rpm barrier. It doesn't pop or miss at 4500rpm but it stops pulling.. timing is set at about 12 degrees or so. The vacuum advance holds suction but has no adjustment provision. It is hooked to a full vacuum port on the carb... The plugs are burning on one side only, clean on one side and brownish black on the other, (on the porcelain). secondaries are opening fully. You can feel the secondaries engage so i'm fairly positive they are working as intended. Q-Jet carb. Any additional suggestions?

I forgot to mention that at an idle or any constant rpm, the timing mark jumps... ( using a timing light ) It advances or retards irratically by about 3 degrees... Does that come into play? Will it affect my proformance???

That has been most helpfull. Ill give it a try and if I dont like it I can always change it... Thank you

Has anyone ran a th350 tranny w/ 3.90:1 gears in the 1/4 mile??? If so what was your trap rpm at crossing? Im worried that this combo in my 240 will top out in rpms before I reach the finish line... I got about 300hp, 27" tall tires, and a th350 w/1500 stall converter, 6000 rpm rev limit. With 3.36:1 gears, I crossed at 4500 rpms or so... I was just wondering what any of you have expeirenced in this matter... Thanks for the input.

Ill try that Teekass... the plugs and wires are all top of the line and new...

Do you feel that this the problem... And am I correct in saying that the solution is to run a larger guage wire FROM the distributor TO the ignition switch and that is it, correct??? I would hat to have to buy a new dist. and find out that I have the same problem...

wow im sorry... I dont have the car in front of me at this second... that black wire that i mistakenly refered to is my tach wire... oops So i need to run a 10 gage wire from my distributor to my ignition switch? and is that all... Is there a way I can bypass the key switch and go directly to the battery.. do I need to do anything to my fuse panel?

Once the wire goes into the dist. cap it is reduced to a smaller gage. Do I need to make this wire larger also? Does the ground wire need to be larger also?

Do I run the wire from the ignition switch to the coil?