Nealio240z

Sold the bike for $7,500 -buying another Z shortly... Moderators please lock/close. -Thanks

I wen from 3.36 gears to 3.90 and it was great! multiplied my torque like crazy

wow! great info!!! Thanks =)

bump

Ya I know, I always keep an eye out for dishonest people. Iv got so much money in this bike, but I miss my v8 z way more lol.

Iv got a black 2002 Honda CBR-954 fully built. Never stunted. 13k miles Lots of mods- professionally tuned. (if your not familiar with this bike- do some research; light, powerful, fast) I want to trade for a running, well set up LS1 240z. IF interested, or want pics- send a PM. No scammers please, serious inquiries only. Im located in northern California, Thank you

Great car... What type of diff are you running? What car did it come out of and what gear ratio is it??? Im in process of doing the same swap and wanted to know how it is holding up. Thanks

Msa makes long tube headers but its costly...

This is your problem. Ok... lets try to put this to rest... I had this exact problem for a year. SAME SET UP AS YOU. It has nothing to do with the fan at all since its only freeway speeds and not in traffic... I went through everything as you did, did everything I could to stop it. I finally went to a wind tunnel. This is a very common problem with this set up. - Think of a hollow point bullet- It pushes air infront of its self creating a pressurized cavity just in front of the bullet. Same with your car. Too much air is going AROUND your front end and not THROUGT it. The air inlet of the airdam NEEDS to be sealed to the lower crossmember of the radiator, use a fabricated piece of sheet metal and high temp aluminum fiol tape to construct this, otherwise all this air is going under the car not throught the radiator. Seal the sides holes that the wireing harnesses goes through, seal the 3" gap above your radiator to the hood. Make a sheild out of cardboard first and then metal- pop rivet it into place and use a 1/2" hose cut lengthwise along the leading edge that contacts your hood (for a good seal). There should be a gap between your radiator sides and the frame- seal these with pipe insulation. You really just need to seal up the radiator (all edges) to the frame, and the frame to the airdam. There should be nowhere for the pressurized air to go but throught the radiator. -Also remove your license plate from blocking the air flow-relocate it. This dropped me to running at 240 to 165. This will save your car from overheating. It taskes time to do but its worth it...

I wish I had the dough right now - thats exactly what im looking for...

I cant hook worth beans... On street radials I spin in first and secons, I can mash it in third and still manage a 13.4 @ 102. Going with full slicks this year- Im sure ill be in the 12's

Im running the exact same set up... 3.90:1 diff, th-350, 330hp sbc 350. 60 mph will put you at 3,000 rpm exactly for crusing. (27' tall tires) you will pull off the line like crazy, and go through all 3 gears before you reach the otherside of an intersection wit normal acceleration. Iv done many diff swaps in my car and i like the 3.90:1 diff the best. Its perfect for the track also... 6k rpm puts you at about 118-120 mph.

K. Thanks for the input. I know im running rich- 750cfm on a smallblock.. And that would explain the pop. Thanks again.

I run 350/350 in my 240z w/ 3.90 rear gears... 330 hp. I get a series of wicked exhaust pops (wrap) every hill I go down... The exhaust pipes are only 5 feet long, (16" purple hornies glasspacks with "H" pipe). Is this a sign of bad ignition timing? Sounds cool but i dont want to loose proformance... Any ideas...

I put the heads in the shop today... He claims he can get them to flow 270+ cfm each. Hes been building race engines for 25 years. For $600 its worth the chance... Well see.

THE CASTING NUMBER IS "241" Im planning on going with a FI set up...

I have had the experiance of riding in a twin turbo infinity q-45, putting out about 500 hp! Let me tell ya, its like nothing else... I personally would build a q-45tt engine. Stock the red line starts at 7k. they are 4.5 litres, DOHC 32 valve engines, and come stock with 278 hp and 297 tq. They weigh 3lbs lifgter than a stock L-24 engine. They are very reliable and a small powerplant...

I picked up a set of ls1 heads with 30k miles on them- for free!!! I still dont have a block though... I plan on building a 500+ hp ls1, 240z. This is my 2nd v8z project. What should I do with these heads?- should I port, polish, plane the deck, add roller rockers, valve springs?????? And can I do any of that at home? I have heard of people porting and polishing at home but i dont know the process or if im gonna screw them up. (im very mechanicaly inclined) I still have to decide if i have to boost the car or not to get these hp numbers. I have no exp. with ls1 heads. How much hp are these heads capable of? Any suggestions would help. Thanks:burnout:

well I can already tell that it is outta my price range!!! (unless its under 3k) Looks good though...

Im looking for a straight body 240z with no rust. I plan on building another v8z as im on my second one already. I need a rolling chassis,-cant find one local for a reasonable price... If anyone knows anybody with a shell to get rid of with a clean title id appreciate the help... Im planning a fully caged LS1 T56 combo 550 flywheel hp street car/ sunday race car. Im not looking for a hand out, but the lowest price possible is always a plus... Thanks:)

Wow that is alot to swallow, but it answers my question in full...

I have a mild built 355 sbc in my 240. Iv put a mild cam in it and done an intake manifold (edelbrock proformer) and im running a 750 Q-jet carb, block hugger headers, and a flame thrower HEI dist. It is only a TWO BOLT MAIN engine... (Year 1986-1984) My question is how much nitrous can I run safely and not risk engine damage??? Stock -pistons, rods, heads, crank, ect...

Guys. Thanks for the help. ALOT... I ended up going through the whole front end, as follows... I sealed the radiator to the frame with foam and aluminum foil tape (cheesy but worked) then I fabbed a piece of metal with a 3/8 hose lining the top, to seal my frame to the hood when it was closed. thus forcing more air in the rad. Then I relocated my front license plate to free up some air flow. Then I made a sheet metal plate to seal my air dam to the bottom of the radiator, I sealed off all of the open holes that would allow air through them in the front frame rail that the rad bolts to... All of these mods fixed the problem and forces enough air through the rad to keep me running about 185 degrees... Finally I can start to enjoy the car and drive it as intended... thx

Im using 1980 280zx 2+2 rear springs for the back... they are working great for the drag strip, stiff strong and can be cut to any height.

Its not lowered. I actually lifted it with 280zx springs to fit a meaty tire... Will they clear the shock tower on a 71' 240z? Im definatly interested...