strangethursday

Any1 know if the 240sx rear setup will fit inside 14" datsun alloys?

I ended up finding that thread but it looks like no1 has actually tried doin it. Thanks

I searched but didn't find anything. Has any1 thought about or added zg flares on top of a subtle z fender kit? I was just thinking if I do want to go really wide maybe I'd try it. I really like the look of the bolt on flares

Hey I don't know if ur all set with the dash but there's a company called PDK just outside San Diego, Ca that makes a fiberglass stock styled dash for $400 I think

Nothin huh? Oh well I just use my spitfire as a test mule

It seems there are a million books out there on automotive wiring. Can any1 recomend any that they have experience with? Thanks in advance

I saw this done in japan. The core was removed & there was what looked like a modifed strutbar put in. The car also had what looked like a stock mk1 mr2 radiator

Any1 ever use Summit Racing's brand capacitive discharge ignitions? I didn't even kno they had them. My Crane HI-6 isn't working so I was looking around for a new 1

rear ratio is the 6s with a 7 speed? Haha

Another thing in regaurds to "no torque" is aren't we still talkin about PAIRED bike motors? Given that say the motor used has about 80ft/lbs stock. Paired 160ft/lbs. I'm not sure how much drivetrain loss there would be but lets say 25%. That brings torque at the wheels down to about 120ft/lbs. Don't sound too bad so far to me. What's a stock L24s wheel torque about? Granted the powerband will be up there but I'm not so sure that this car need to be streetable. On the other hand, you have guys like me that don't necissarily have a problem with leavin a stop light at high rpm haha

That's why you just cut it up & piece it together all JDM like

You gonna run it like that or build an airbox too?

How much power is actually runnin through the combo switch? Right now I got all my lights except the dash working. The dome light works & all the gauge bulbs are new but for some reason they don't work now. The head lights a directly powered off what I believe was once the windshield washer through a switch (only powered with ignition in "on" position). The rest of the lights are still controlled by the combo. The light for the hazzard still comes on. I found a white wire in the harness inside the engine bay that shorted out & burned but, I'm not sure what it is since everything but the gauges works. I'll re-wire everything when I get the money. This is my daily driver for the time being so there's another issue. My wantin to bypass the stock switch was more because I thought that was the problem & couldn't find a replacement but when I rewire everything it will be taken out

Thanks. I've got that & some others printed out. I was mainly wondering who has successfully removed the combo & turn signal switches altogether

I've looked at that a lil. I'll look into it. I don't have the money for that right now tho. I do want the individual systems separated (lighting, ignition, fuel, etc) anyway which is another reason I want to rewire. The POs wiring is just rediculous.

In a perfect world my friend. Unfortunately I think the PO was edward scissorhands. The entire wiring harness has so many splices, add-ons & re-routed ♥♥♥♥ that I need to eventually rebuild the whole thing. I'm not even sure the harness is from a 73. The car has a L28 & electronic ignition swap. The fuse box appears to be stock. I have yet to find 1 fusable link. The alternator looks to be a later internally regulated 1 but the external regulator is still hooked up. They had an electric fan installed which was wired into who knows what & since there was never any electric fan stock (no wiring for a trigger), it didn't even work. I found a 5 prong aftermarket relay on the passenger side of the engine compartment near the regulator that has only 4 wires goin into it. 2 of which in traced back to the passenger footwell & don't connect to anything. There's another 6 prong relay that appears to be stock but the connector on it only has 4 wires.

Has any1 re-wired the lighting system & used toggle or some other kind of switches instead of the combo switch? I'm having no luck finding the problem with my lighting system & now thinking of a complete re-wire. I've heard this is difficult because of the design of the system. I always drive with the headlights on anyway so I was thinking a single toggle to power all lighting interior & exterior, possibly a push button or a separate switch for the high beams & something like push on/push off buttons for the signals. The hazzard switch would be stock & wired in accordingly. Any thoughts on my design? My car is a 73. Thanks in advance

This is the 1 I think he's talkin about http://www.racetep.com/weberX.html#websynch

THERE WE GO! Damnit I hate mondays. It just was NOT clickin! Alright. You mean don't use the 1 that's just a flat piece with a glass tube? The 1s that look like they were made in 1910?

I see what ur saying. I'm fairly new to webers. I have to buy that tuning book from pierce soon also. Is the amount of fuel goin thru the carb controlled soley by jetting or can it be adjusted a little by other means? NM I missed the part about mixture nuts at the end. I really need to get a book or 2.... or 6..... lol Thanks

Can you be more detailed? If ur afr is perfectly tuned for each cylinder than how would cfm matching on each do that? I think varibles such as spark, combustion chamber, airflow getting to the carb, etc being slightly different in relation to each other would mak the color tune method more precise. At least with something like tripples. On a car that basically has less than 1 carb per cylinder I can see there is more benefit from using both methods but I just don't see it for other than what I mentioned b4. Thanks

I'm about to buy something to tune my carbs (triple webers) & thought of something. When using something like a unisyn to tune, you get all the carbs flowing the same cfm which in my mind might not actually be optimal. Now with a colortune you get ur ratios perfect (well atleast very close). The reason I think this way is better for me at the moment is because I don't plan on buying any jets or anything else right now & I think the individual requirements of each cylinder will vary slightly. So I'm leaning towards buying the colortune for now. It seems to me that the unisyn type would be better suited for testing the airflow requirements of ur engine. For instance if you have to step up in carb size because ur engine is running out of breath up high. Any thoughts or experience on this any wants to share?

Any issues with moisture there?