DCZ
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Posts posted by DCZ
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OK,
Here is a pic of the back of the drivers side dash.
And three closeups going left to right
The black 12 pin connector has YW YL NC GB B GW across the top and
BR RL G Y YL Y across the bottom. Y=YELLOW W=WHITE NC=NO CONTACT G=GREEN B=BLACK L=BLUE R=RED
There is a 10 pin white connector on the left and a 10 pin black in the middle. If you can't see them clearly enough let me know.
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Hey AK-Z,
Just a quick note to let you know I haven't forgotten. Well . . . I DID forget yesterday WHEN I WAS RIGHT THERE IN THE GARAGE!!!
Anyway, I'll try to remember today.
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AK-Z,
I'm not sure exactly what you are asking but I just pulled the dash out of my 83 ZXT and could take pics of the back of the digital gauge assy if it would help.
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>On the plus side, Durham has better weather than Frederick...
Except maybe in August. I hate being in Durham during August! Hot and muggy because the mosquitoes block the air flow.
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Oooooh, oooooh, I've got one!
A blonde is hiking in the wilderness and comes across a beautiful lake. She stood there admiring the beauty and trying to figure out how to get across it, since the trail seemed to end.
Just then, a second blonde came into view on the other side of the lake.
First Blonde waves and yells: Hi!
Second Blonde waves and yells: Hi!
First Blonde: How do you get to the other side?
Second Blonde: You ARE on the other side!
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Hi MatMan,
On my '73 they are stamped "R" and "L" on the back side. The R is a little bit longer overall, but they will swap fine.
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I bought generic strut boots at my local auto parts store, about $15 ea. and they came with bump stops. You want strut boots anyway to keep dirt away from the strut pistons and protect your warranty. The bump stops were about 2 inches tall. I can't say whether or not you need to cut them because it depends on the spring height. I didn't and have used them on stock and Suspension Tech springs and have had no problem.
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It has a little texture to it but goes on very thin. IMO a regular textured paint would build up way too much. If you do a good prep job you can't tell it's been sprayed. It looks just like vinyl.
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I guess this is as good a place as any to put this for future searchers - I pulled the side door (big sliding ones) weatherstrip off a 95 Chrysler minivan and used them on my 73. They fit GREAT! They have a channel that you just push onto the flange around the door and they stay tight. Start at the 90 degree corner by your head and work your way around, trim the end and you are done. I had the same experience as RPMS above with the Precision seals. Now, my door closes with a flick of the wrist!
Also got the hatch seal off a Z31 and it works well on my 73 although not as well as the Chrysler door seals. It's about 4 inches too short so I left that part at the top/center. Also will need to be glued in place but I don't mind for $20 for all three pieces.
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I have used SEM vinyl paint on my interior. I cleaned the plastic, wiped with acetone and sprayed away. Looks great and stays on. There are a couple of different "shades" of black but sorry I can't remember which one I went with. I used 3M 77 adhesive to stick everything back. Take this opportunity to put in some sound deadening - I used Brown Bread but there are a lot of options that come up when you search this site.
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When hurricanes come this way, I take my Z and park it in the biggest sturdiest concrete parking garage, away from the edges on the second story. It's protected from flooding, trees and most flying debris.
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My 71 240 stranded me Saturday. I think the transmission is lunched. I can put it in any gear and the clutch feels fine, but driving at 5 - 10 mph produces random "ting" noises and the whole car vibrates so much that it is undriveable. I put it up on jack stands and get no play at the U-joints, tranny mount, diff mount, wheel bearings, front suspension. I put it in gear with the wheels in the air and everythings looks ok but the whole rear suspension seems to vibrate slightly (all bushings are new and bolts are tight). I didn't rev the engine much because running it on jackstands makes me nervous, but if I shifted between first and reverse, using the momentum of the spinning wheels to load the drivetrain, and dropped the clutch, I got some clunking (but no visible movement). I couldn't tell exactly where the clunk came from. So I'm thinking it's the transmission by process of elimination. I guess it could be the rear end, but the rear end was bought NEW and has <15k on it while the transmission came straight from the junkyard.
Does this sound like a bad transmission bearing? Any other diagnostics I can do before pulling the trans out? I am planning on draining the trans oil and looking for metal.
71 240z, '82 L28, 2+2 clutch, 280z 5-speed, 3.9 R200 rear
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I have always set the floats so that there is 14 mm or 9/16 inch between the float and the lid so I don't think that is the problem. Definitely sounds like you are running on the front carb only. How do the plugs look in the rear 3 cylinders? Is it possible that they have been fouled and are not firing very well? Did you verify that the piston is not sticking on the rear carb and that the jet tube is centered on the needle? A worn jet and/or needle can let fuel flow past it no matter where the mixture nut is.
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Get the stub axle nut from your Nissan dealer. Get the one for the 280ZX turbo. It is the same size and self-locking so you don't have to peen it.
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I had a 75 280 fuel tank "acid boiled" and sealed and the tank return line is now clogged. Archives suggest it would just be gunk but this may be gunk and/or hardened sealer because it feels hard when I poke it with a wire. Any ideas on a solvent? I think the sealer may have been lacquer based.
If I can't get it unclogged, would it be a good idea to use this other vent line which I think went to the vapor cannister? (the smaller one in the pic)
This is for a turbo engine swap into a 73 240z
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I had a Grant GT wheel on my 240 and one thing I didn't like was that it blocked the top of the speedo/tach from my vision. I could never find a good compromise seat position that gave me the visibility I like for driving on the street but still allowed me to see the guages without dipping my head. Not a factor for a track car but it was annoying to me on the street. Just a thought.
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I have also had a rock bouncing around in the rear control arm. Another mystery noise can come from the gland nut at the top of the strut if it comes loose.
Jeremy - if you need a volunteer to ride around in the back and listen - give me a shout. If this sounds like a desperate attempt to get a ride in your car, it is! I also have a spare rear control arm you can have for cheep.
Damian
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Jayru, where are you located? My mechanic has about 100 first gen Z cars at his shop. I am sure he will sell you one with rusty pans or a bad motor for nothing.
Sorry to hijack the thread but . . . Sparks - where is your mechanic? There are NO first gens in the junkyards around here (Durham/Raleigh)!
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I read a quote that was attributed to Winston Churchill:
"When you are going through Hell, keep going!"
Good luck and hang in there.
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Thanks for the ideas guys.
Clifton,
I hear you on the flowmaster. Never liked the sound of that muffler much but it was on the car when I bought it so I've kept it so far. OK at WOT but very boomy otherwise. I figured since it was so loud it must not be restrictive.
First order of business is to figure out the timing and see what the butt dyno says.
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Yes, stock cam, whatever was stock on an 82 ZX. Previous owner said he only trued the head surface, so I imagine compression is close to stock. Exhaust is 2.5 inch with a bullet in the tranny tunnel and a flowmaster muffler.
I need to spend a little time and figure out a good way to read my timing accurately. And I wouldn't mind throwing my little woodpecker fuel pump in the trash. Any suggestions for a good low pressure, low $$ fuel pump?
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Our local Z club (Triangle Z Club, North Carolina) had a dyno day last sat and this is a scan of my baseline runs.
This is a F54/P79, stock rebuilt about 10K miles ago. ZTherapy carbs with SM needles, K&N air filters. I'm pretty happy with it but of course I wouldn't mind squeezing a few HP out. Torque seems to drop off after 4500 rpm, limiting peak HP.
I wasn't able to stay around and tweak anything. What do you guys think I might try as far as tuning? How does the A/F look to you?
Base timing is approx 10 degrees. I have, I think, an L24 harmonic damper with an L28 timing indicator and they don't line up well, so I haven't gotten a good handle on the timing.
I noticed that my fuel pressure went from 4 psi down to ~1 at high rpms, yet the A/F doesn't show any leaning. I guess the float bowls still had gas? Might this be a problem for a longer WOT run?
Thanks for any comments.
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In my experience, you can't trust Carfax. I bought a car that I KNEW had a salvage title - the seller told me all about it and was completely honest. I ran a Carfax just for "fun" and it came back completely clean
Just for "fun" again, I tried to take Carfax up on their "Guarantee". I forget what it was, but it was something like they would pay you $$$ if they screwed up. Well, what do you know, they have enough fine print buried within their multiple web pages that their "Guarantee" is virtually impossible to collect. Who woulda guessed!?!
Immediately after I contacted Carfax, the info on this car mysteriously changed to a salvage title. Hmmmm . . .
FWIW, you can get the same (and more) info from the state DMV for a lot cheaper (in NC, it is $5 or so), it just takes a little longer, a few days or a week.
So with Carfax, as with most anything else, BUYER BEWARE
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Who has had there digital dash removed?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
That small black connector in the center of that pic is a 12 pin and is the one I listed above - YW YL NC GB B GW across the top and
BR RL G Y YL Y across the bottom (left to right).
Funny, that left-most bottom wire looks brown in the pic but my notes say black/red. I can doublecheck if needed.