DCZ
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Posts posted by DCZ
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Thanks for the info. I am much more concerned with safety than I am with weight. I just happened to find this piece of aluminum in my junk pile and thought it might work. Steel it is!
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Would aluminum be a poor choice for an adapter bracket to mount a different seat in my 240z? It would be a flat plate about 3/16 inch thick with the plate bolted to the existing bracket and the seat bolted to the other end of the plate. I don't know anything about the piece of aluminum that I have, other than it is about 3/16 inch thick and . . . well . . . silver colored
Any ideas welcome!
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Me (returning truck): When I filled up the truck, a lot of gas dripped out somewhere underneath the truck. You might want to take a look at it.
CounterGuy: Oh, they all do that. It'll stop in a little while.
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Hey Jeremy,
There is a Fastenal place on Geer St 682-1408. They weren't very helpful when I was looking for something awhile back but you might have better luck. Have you tried Public Hardware on Mangum St? They might be able to order it or maybe the machine shop at the auto parts store next door to them.
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Miles,
Try a new spark plug in cyl #3, or switch spark plugs with another cylinder and see if the miss follows the plug. You can do the same thing with the plug wire. Pull the distributor cap and inspect the contact for the #3 cylinder. Also, pull off the valve cover and re-check your valve clearances on cyl #3. If the keeper nut wasn't torqued enough they may have wandered.
If those checks don't reveal anything, I would do a compression test or leakdown test to see if cyl #3 is out of whack.
Good Luck
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I had an engine shipped to me two years ago using American Freightways. Seller had to crate it, drain all fluids and get it to the terminal, I had to pick it up at the terminal, which was only about 20 mins from my house. They have (had) a special "first time shipper" deal that saved me about 40% or so, it cost me about $150 to ship it from Delaware to North Carolina. It was a heavy Ford 300 I6.
Just checked the web to see if I could find their website and it looks like they have been assimilated into the Borg (Fedex)!
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Hi Tht1KSguy,
I recommend skipping the Columbia/Myrtle Beach SC detour. IMO, Columbia is a pit and MB is a big stupid tourist trap. Leave the extra time for the Outer Banks because they are beautiful and what a beach should be. Try to take a ferry ride as part of your trip. There is a short one from Wilmington to Fort Fisher or a longer one from Cedar Island to Ocracoke. There are several others. Go to:
If you come through Durham NC send me an email and maybe we can meet.
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On my (long gone) '73 the A/C compressor mounted on the passenger side, with the bracket basically surrounding the mechanical fuel pump. Made for lots of heat soak when you ran the A/C. The compressor in your picture looks like the one I had, but I don't remember what the bracket looked like. Hope that helps some.
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I've done it on my L28 in a '73 240Z. I remember that I had to rotate the pan when getting it out/in. Wasn't real easy but definitely do-able. I'm no mechanical wonder-boy
I have read on some forum that the orientation of the crank can cause problems, depending upon which piston happens to be in the "down" position. I had not thought of that but it sounds reasonable. Something to remember if you get stuck!
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Doug,
When Hurricane Fran came through here a few years ago, I parked my cars in a big parking garage at a local mall. Pick a place well in the interior on the second level or higher. Disable the engine (for theives) and you are set to go! I might do it again for Isabel.
Good Luck and hang on tight!
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Good, I feel better now
The outer "race" is really no more than a bushing, all the contact points are new. I scratched the old "race" a bit trying to get it out, but I don't think I made it un-useable. The new bearing went in tight and straight so I think I'll be OK.Crossing my fingers!
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Hey Denny,
I looked at the new bearing and noticed that the inner section could be pressed out easily. I did that and tapped it into the old bushing that was still stuck in the flywheel. It went in tight and seems to be OK. Do you think I'll have trouble with it?
Phil - I tried the grease trick - didn't work for me
Jon - I was leaning toward the dremel, but I'm dangerous with power tools. Hopefully I can get away with replacing the needle-bearing only.
Thanks for the input guys, let me know if I'm about to f*ck up!
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Hi all,
I'm trying to replace the pilot bearing before putting a new clutch on my 70 Ford F100 ('78 or so 300 I6 engine, T-18 four speed tranny). So I got the little tool from AutoZone that is supposed to grip the back of the bearing, then you put the slide hammer on it and knock it out. Two minute job, right? WRONG!
I managed to pull out the center part of the bearing, about 3/4 inch in diameter. The new bearing is about 1 1/4 inch in diameter and there was a similar sized ring left in the back of the crankshaft, so I put the tool back on that part and commenced to slammin'. It doesn't want to budge. All I managed to do was gouge it all up on the inside and then the (cheap, powder metal Made-in-Taiwan POS) puller tool broke. Any ideas what to do? I was tempted to put the old center section back in, but I kinda tore it up taking it out.
Is it possible that the pilot bearing is the smaller 3/4 inch part, and the larger ring is not supposed to come out, and the new bearing is the wrong one? Do I just have to get medieval on that sucker?
Any and all ideas welcome!
I miss driving my Z parts hauler! (Z content)
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Anyone know anything about the PT Cruiser GT (turbo)? My bro is trying to decide between auto and manual tranny. Anyone got any info on this car? Can you put a V8 in it
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I'm in Durham, hour and a half in the other, other direction. Ditto on the rust free cars. You going to Ft. Bragg? Not the worst place, just the worst in NC! ha ha j/k.
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Yes, you can adjust the chokes. These are round top carbs, right? Undo the choke cable where it attaches to the lever on the carb. Watch what happens as you pull up on the carb lever. First, the fuel jet gets pulled down (richens fuel mixture). When you get to the last part of the lever travel, it pushes on another lever that cracks open the throttle butterfly a bit. You want to adjust each carb so that you get the full range of choke lever travel by pulling on the lever on the console. All I have ever had to do was loosen the cable, with the jet all the way up into the carb body, remove any slack from the lever and tighten it back up. Make sure both jet tubes get pulled out the same distance when you pull the choke lever. I think you can bend the little bar on the side of the carbs to adjust. Get the ZTherapy video if you don't have it already.
Hope that was clear.
Damian
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Your brake fluid is most likely puddled in the vacuum booster
This will deteriorate the seals in the booster so you should probably replace both m/c and booster if this is the case. -
Hi Jero,
Have you figured out the wires yet? I have an extra ig switch that you can borrow or you can come by my house and take a look at the known good one in my z - it is up on blocks right now for brake work. Email me at damian.craig@duke.edu if you want to meet.
Damian
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Those SUs need a fuel pressure of 3 to 4 psi max. I'm not sure of the plumbing details but I think you run the return from the high pressure side of the regulator back to the tank - someone correct me if I'm wrong
Clean up the carbs, set your floats at 9/16 inch from the float bowl cover, get some SM needles from ZTherapy, adjust your airflow/mixture and you should be set. I would not pay big $$ to Rebello to modify your carbs until you are sure they are a limiting factor, and on a stock engine they are unlikely to be the limiting factor.
Also - do you have a cutoff switch for the electric fuel pump? Get either a pressure activated or inertia switch to cut the pump off in the event of a crash. Don't want to get crispy!!
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71 240z, lime/yellow. See you there!
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Yes, that is the plan. By next weekend you mean the 19th-20th, right? I would hate to show up on the wrong day
This will be my second track day, I'm pretty psyched. All I plan to do is replace my brake fluid and tweak the carbs. No time to do anything else. I have already rigged up some brake ducts. Last time I warped my rotors. Will you be there? I would love to see a V8Z run. -
What would you guys recommend for a street driven 240z with the occasional track day? 5.1 has wet/dry bp of 356/522 degF and 600 is 420/593 so obviously 600 is a bit higher but the Motul website talks about 5.1 being very stable for long lasting usage. As far as I can tell, both are compatible with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. Both are a synthetic but not silicone based. Any real world experience? Stock calipers, KVR carbon/metallic pads, BTW.
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The info I have is 10AM - 4PM this sat 28th at 194 W. Forlines Rd in Winterville NC. The guy in charge is at this email
Don't know if I'll be able to make it but if I do maybe we'll meet.
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Hi Soul,
Sorry to hear about the ditch - a COP'S no less!
I looked at that car before you bought it and unless you worked on the suspension, I would doubt that the engine placement had anything to do with losing control. As I recall, it had no upgrades done to it at all. Ditto the brakes. Now is a good time to finish the conversion properly. Stiffer springs. Good strut cartridges. Poly bushings all around. Bigger front sway bar, maybe add a rear. Check the condition of the frame rails (rust!). Lots of options on brakes but definitely MUST do something to make them better.Search the archives on this site if you haven't already, there is a LOT of good info. Fix your suspension right and you won't believe you ever drove that car with the current setup! That is a sweet engine but it won't help you if the car won't go where you point it!
BTW, there is a Z swap meet in Greenville this weekend - you might be able to score some parts there. I think there are details on www.trianglezclub.com in the events section.
Good Luck!
The outer "race" is really no more than a bushing, all the contact points are new. I scratched the old "race" a bit trying to get it out, but I don't think I made it un-useable. The new bearing went in tight and straight so I think I'll be OK.
This will deteriorate the seals in the booster so you should probably replace both m/c and booster if this is the case.
This will be my second track day, I'm pretty psyched. All I plan to do is replace my brake fluid and tweak the carbs. No time to do anything else. I have already rigged up some brake ducts. Last time I warped my rotors. Will you be there? I would love to see a V8Z run.
I looked at that car before you bought it and unless you worked on the suspension, I would doubt that the engine placement had anything to do with losing control. As I recall, it had no upgrades done to it at all. Ditto the brakes. Now is a good time to finish the conversion properly. Stiffer springs. Good strut cartridges. Poly bushings all around. Bigger front sway bar, maybe add a rear. Check the condition of the frame rails (rust!). Lots of options on brakes but definitely MUST do something to make them better.
totaled my car today.....
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Wow, Austin glad you are OK. Your car is really sweet. Seeing it last year in Charlotte was some inspiration for me to get working on a turbo swap of my own. As others have said, make sure you get to keep all the goodies on your car, I know you'll be able to build another one. Good Luck!