DCZ
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Posts posted by DCZ
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Good idea! Why didn't I think of that (DUH!).
Thanks Dave you've been a big help.
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It is advertised in a local classified. Sellers description is in my first post. Supposedly new, Garrett T3/T04E. Looks like it's worth checking out.
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Thanks Dave,
Sorry for the confusion, the turbo descriptions are right from the seller and maybe that is adding to my misunderstanding. From the link you provided it seems that these turbos are probably T04E with 57 trim (I'll try to verify that). I understand what A/R is but I don't know how it affects the choice of a turbo. It seems from my reading that a larger A/R will support higher flows (therefore HP) at the possible cost of more boost lag (is this true?)
I played around with the formulas in one of the links in the Turbo Sticky and got an estimated air flow rate of 27 lb/min. This would put me right in the "sweet spot" of the T04E 57 trim turbo map. I should play around with more number estimates to see if that 27 lb/min is a good number to use.
As far as internal/external wastegates go, I have experience only with my current T3 internal wastegate. If/when I upgrade, I don't mind the extra cost/work for an external wastegate if it will improve the final result. I currently have a 2.5 inch downpipe so an upgrade may be in order anyway.
It seems to me that the two turbos in question differ only the the turbine A/R, with the larger .84 A/R turbine having a split housing, which does not gain me anything with an L28 AFAIK. Now, the .84 vs .63 will most likely make a difference, but I don't know what that would be.
Any comments/discussion appreciated.
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I would tell my six year old to call James Thagard aka 240zturbo.
I would talk to James if I were going to buy from him. I don't want to waste his time. I am asking about these specific turbos because they are available at a rediculous price so if one will work for me I will buy it now, even though I am not ready to install it.
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Been searching the archives trying to edumacate myself and my head is spinning. I admit - I'm confused!
I have a line on either of two turbos for an excellent price and am not sure if they would work for me.
my engine - stock L28t, p90a head (hyd) in a 73 240z
my goals - solid 300 hp, ~15psi, intercooled, megasquirt
turbos (sellers description) supposedly Garrett T3/T4 hybrid
#1) 3" Inlet 2" outlet .50 A/R stage 3 compressor wheel .63 A/R turbine .57 trim. Will bolt up to a t3/t4 manifold has a wet floating bearing 1/8 oil inlet 5 bolt exhaust flange.
#2) .50 compressor housing .84 A/R divided turbine housing .57 stage 3 compressor wheel. It also bolts up to a t3/t4 manifold.
Would either of these turbos be a good choice for me or am I missing something? What would be advantage/disadvantage of one over the other?
I am assuming I would have to go external wastegate with either(?). Is there any other info I need to make a decision?
Thanks for any advice. I'm new to turbos so talk to me like you would a six year old. Then dumb it down
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Clean and re-seat EVERY electrical connector under the hood and at the ignition control box. Use dielectric grease on them. That will prevent or solve a lot of little glitches with these cars.
Have Fun!
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If the fuel pump does not run right away, check the connector on the rear deck to see if you have power. If you have power, the pump may just be "stuck". Try jumping 12V directly to the connector while tapping the pump with a hammer. Also try reversing the polarity a few times for short bursts to see if that will free it up. Also, the input of the pump has a small filter inside that clogs easily when these cars sit. I had to do all that to get my 83T started but it is running well (a few minor issues) after a 12 year nap.
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Which carbs do you have? If you have the original stock 73 (flat top) carbs, the rebuild kit will be very different. I'm guessing that is what the MSA kit is. The $20 VB kit probably is for the 70 - 72 (round top) carbs and contains some washers, a float bowl gasket and maybe a float bowl valve.
Check out http://www.ztherapy.com. I would buy SU stuff from them before either of the other two just because they specialize in these carbs and can help you out better.
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My pedal wouldn't drop to the floor. It gave very little resistance until it was pretty far in it's travel and then it was solid. I think the only way you could get the brake pedal to the floor would be if you had air in the lines.
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REACTION DISC.
The telltale symptom of missing reaction disc is fairly good pedal with engine off. Then goes to floor when engine runs.
For those that have the fronts grab and put you thru the windshield more than likely have the same problem but have adjusted the booster rod length to make up for reaction disc missing.
I spent a whole summer one year chasing this problem even making the mistake of lengthing the booster rod. That is a no-no with reaction disc missing.
Well it looks like this was the problem I was having. I pulled the booster off the car but could not see any way to pull the pushrod out or otherwise access the inside of the booster without twisting the two halves apart like the service manual shows. So I held the booster with the master cylinder side pointing straight up, held the pushrod up and out of the way, and shook the booster so that the reaction disk could fall back down into the "well". IT WORKED! I couldn't tell by looking at it, but I put it back on without doing anything else and the brakes are working properly. Pedal is high and firm, just like Lindsay Lohan's . . . well, you get the idea.
Just wanted to bring this thread back up to confirm that the symptoms above can be caused by a missing reaction disk and that you can shake it back into place without taking apart the booster.
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Pumping the accel pedal won't do a thing. Is your car a stock ZXT? When you turn the ignition switch to the "run" position your fuel pump should run for a few seconds and then turn off. Turn the key back off and on a few times and you should pressurize your fuel system.
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I hear you.... I just dont see it actually happening... I troubleshoot home brake jobs often enough for people in my club.....
OK John, grab your bullet-proof vest and come on over to Durham. Beer is in the fridge! LOL!
Damian
Jon M - thanks for the info. Last time I "just took the booster off" cost me several scraped knuckles, a bonked head (watch out for that steering column!) and a bunch of cursing.
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Sure sounds like the reaction disk to me. Takes less time to check the disk then it does to bleed the brakes.
Maybe a simple question but, how do you "check" the reaction disk with everything installed on the car? Can I unbolt the master cylinder keeping the fluid lines attached, pull it away from the booster and stick my finger in there? Is it possible to look in the booster and see it? Seems like the booster rod is in the way.
I have a similar problem in that the pedal is VERY easy to push with only slight braking action for the first few inches and then WHAM! the brakes instantly grab.
I'm trying to figure out whether it is just air in the lines, a maladjusted booster rod or a fallen reaction disk.
Stock 73 240z brake system.
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If you have a "small bumper" (early) 260z then the suspension is the same as the 240z. If you have a "large bumper" later 260z then you would want 280 springs. The 240 springs will make the rear end sit up too high, I think.
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No one can stand a long winded story or a recount of your lives together. Remember the day is not about you and your buddy' date=' but about your buddy and his wifes new life together.
Some tips:
Prepare something - Don't wing it;
Think of it more as a toast than a speach;
Thank them for the honor of being their best man;
If you want to tell a story from the past, make it about the two of them or something meaningful about their relationship- "I remember the night they met" or "I remember when the Groom told me she was the one";
Tell the world why the are great together and how you know they will have a happy life together - "They are so compatible" or "They compliment each other so";
End it by wishing them the best, a long healthy and happy life, many children and fond memories, etc.; and
Keep it short.
Good luck[/quote']
Then turn to the groom and say "See, I TOLD you I wouldn't mention your gay lover!"
That'll get things going!
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Looks promising!!! Did anyone ever tell you that you ARE the man!?!
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Does anyone know of a compatible output shaft seal for the Nissan T5 that came in the 82/83 ZXT? Nissan part # C2136-P9500 is the correct part but has been discontinued according to the local Nissan dealer as well as Courtesy and MSA.
Anyone have an old Nissan T5 they aren't going to use and want to sell me the dust shield/rear seal? (Don't try to separate the rubber seal from the dust shield, you will destroy it. Don't ask me how I know)
Thanks for any info.
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I have one. PM or post here if you are still interested.
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Same pump. No problemo. At least, that is what my searching has indicated.
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Good questions for sure:
1. Cooling: I have 3 (yes' date=' three) 14,000 CFM industrial fans at my shop, that move some serious air. A total of 42,000CFM if required. If your dyno facility doesn't take their fan situation seriously, you should be alarmed. A household fan is not sufficient! (don't laugh, I've seen it) Small squirrel cage fans that move a decent amount of air at a high velocity seem to work pretty well too. A rule of thumb, if it looks like your facility has spent less than $500 on fans, they are not serious about keeping your car cool.
[/quote']
HAHA Drax - Timely post. I noticed a new dyno (DynoJet) in town and stopped by to check out his operation. First thing I saw was a tiny 16 inch household fan sitting on the floor in front of the car! Don't think I'll be taking my car there!
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Another good junkyard solution is a mid 90's, maybe others, Grand Caravan. The weatherstrip around the side sliding doors fits the s30 doors very well. like the Volvo, start at the 90* corner and press on. I have them on my 73 so that makes it a HybridZ
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Man' date=' I've learned my lesson already. Stated value forever!!!
I'm going to try to go through Hagerty for my 240, but I pay $150 a month on my truck. Who knows what it'll be on my 240.
Isk[/quote']
BEWARE!! "Stated" value is not the same as "Agreed" value. Spork is on the money when he says that the insurance co. is not simply going to fork over the "Stated" value. As I understand it (*NOT an expert!), with an agreed value policy, like Hagerty, they are liable for the agreed amount if they total it. With "Stated" value, they determine "market value" at the time of the claim.
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Sorry, I don't know anything about swapping to analog. I pulled the dash out of my drivetrain donor for my s30 turbo swap because I was having trouble figuring out where the fuel pump and ignition relay wiring went. Nissan was pretty good about making things modular so my guess is that it will plug right in with maybe one or two small changes - of course figuring out the small changes will drive you crazy!
Safety
in Body Kits & Paint
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I'll add:
When you go to spray that PB Blaster on the rusty bolt, make sure the nozzle is pointed at the bolt and NOT your eye. Yes, I did that. Perfect shot from 2 feet away!