DCZ
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Posts posted by DCZ
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dose anything need to be jumped to get rid of the lock that dosen't let you start the car if its not in N?
That doesn't have anything to do with the ECU. The starter interlock will be part of the chassis wiring for the car. If you are switching a manual trans into a car that was auto, you have to locate the wires in the trans tunnel that went to the switch on the auto trans. If you jumper (connect) those wires, the car will start in any gear whether or not the clutch is depressed. If you are swapping in the BW 5speed out of a turbo ZX, it has a neutral switch built in so you just plug that in and the car will only start in neutral. That's what I did on my 73.
I don't think the N/A 5 speeds or 4 speeds have a neutral switch but I could be wrong on that one. In that case you either live with it or wire in a switch on the clutch pedal to force you to have the clutch pressed in to start.
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The auto tranny did have an inhibitor switch and there should be some extra wires in the tranny tunnel in addition to the reverse light switch wires. When I put the T5 into my 73 (was an auto) I was able to mark all the wires before the swap. The T5 has a reverse switch and a neutral switch. I hooked mine up so that the gear must be in neutral for the starter to run. I didn't try to hook up a clutch switch but I might at some time in the future. I think the reverse light wires come out right near the reverse switch on the T5 so you should be able to figure that out. If you get stuck I can crawl under there and see if I can get some wire colors for you.
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I have stock rear springs from a 75/76 280z - $50 +ship for the pair.
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Hi Josh,
I don't have all your answers but I can throw out a few clues:
1) Passenger side footwell, the can with the B, R, LR and WR wires is your accessory relay. It should click when you turn the key to the accessory position. Also note that the wire colors in the FSM show the HARNESS side of the connector, not the RELAY side.
2) That thing on the firewall by the battery is not your voltage regulator. I'm not sure what it is but it looks like a relay - maybe horn relay?
3) The voltage regulator used to be near that square plug down by the alternator on the right side of the engine compartment. It looks like the PO swapped in an internally regulated alternator and that square plug is part of the "fix".
Ain't PO wiring "fixes" fun?
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OK, I need to paint my car now! I used to think I had the nicest lime/yellow Z in the state, but yours is the second 240Z of that color I've seen this year that absolutely blows mine out of the water!
^(#^$*@! (fumbles around for case of flat black spray bombs)
PS. Good Job! I really love what you've done to it. Can't wait to see it in person.
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I don't think they are available but ZManofWashington had a post not too long ago that suggested he was trying to get some made. I got a sheet of 1/4 inch rubber from a rubber/hose supply house locally and made new ones using the old as a template. They function fine and were very cheap ~ $10 for the piece of rubber.
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C'mon! quit braking his bawls!
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I have one in Durham NC. PM me and I can send you some pics.
Damian
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In the USDM, the lighter was moved from the center console lid to the dash location either mid-71 or 72. My 71 has the console location and my 73 has the dash. Looks to me like your 71 has had a newer dash installed.
If you are not too worried about originality, you might consider selling the console lid - unmolested early ones with the lighter hole get pretty good prices - and replace it with a later version. Either that or wire it up and use it to power your ipod or radar detector.
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If you are cheap like me you can cut the air horns from the backing plate of the stock air filter housing and place them under your K&N filters. In my case they were free since I had a beat-up old housing and they work fine.
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If you want to keep the flat tops, DO WHAT TONY SAYS regarding the FSM. He helped me get mine running decently a few years back until I could swap in the turbo engine. In my case, the float bowls had a bunch of trash in them and a lot of the hoses were missing or leaking. The float bowls are hard to get to compared to the round tops. I ended up removing the carbs to get to them and just cleaning everything up, then putting as many of the hoses as I could back to the way they are in the manual. It ran a WHOLE lot better. I would hesitate to tear off the "smog crap" without knowing exactly what I was doing because the system is designed as a whole. The manual explainations and drawings can be a bit confusing so stick with it and you should be able to get it running.
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He he he... wish I had seen this thread a week ago. I just got the rubber strips and felt strips for the door panels from Too Intense, but I realized that I don't have a stapler quite capable of installing these strips. I wasn't aware that they were held together by staples until last night. Does anyone have a good suggestion about how to install these?
I used 1/4 inch aluminum pop rivets for the felt strips on the inside door panel. Not sure if they would work on the rubber outer strip though.
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Coming into this thread late but here's a suggestion on the "no run" issue. 240Zs and many other cars - don't know exactly about the 280Zs - have a separate pathway for 12V to the coil for "Start" and "Run" position on the ignition switch. You said it fires instantly then dies. Does it die when the key returns to the "Run" position? Could be the ignition switch or the separate wiring pathway. The 240Zs do this to protect the points, and I know that the 280s don't have points, but there may be a similar circuit scheme going on.
Just a thought.
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So it sounds like you have to hold the strut shaft firmly without gouging it. See if you can get a strap wrench around the strut shaft. If that doesn't work, try some vise grips but you MUST protect that shaft. Any nicks and you ruin the strut. I would use rubber rather than cloth between the vise grips and the shaft.
Don't forget to have the spring compressed when you do this!!!
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You don't have to drain the oil to pull the oil pump. Sorry, can't help you on the distributor shaft orientation though.
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Yes, you need little plastic push-in rivets. Ten per side should be plenty. Easy to find at an auto paint store.
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I have seen two ways to deal with this. One way is to use long hoses and zip-tie (or otherwise fasten) them so they hang down below the frame rail. That way if they puke any fuel it will spill below the car and not on the hot exhaust manifold. The other way which I used to have on my car is to drill holes in the air filter backing plates and simply jam the hoses in - size the holes for a tight fit. Either way works fine.
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Sounds like crud in the fuel tank blocking the pickup. Let us know when you figure it out.
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They will fit if your 260 is the earlier "skinny bumper" version.
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Get ahold of a 240z wiring diagram and look at the wires that go from the ignition switch to the coil. Basically (from memory) there is a black/white wire and a green/white wire. They both provide power to the coil but one of them (G/W I think) bypasses the ballast resistor during starting. Depending upon how the wires were jumpered when you did the swap you can provide power to the coil but the current may not necessarily be running through the tach to get there. In your case, the "start" circuit is going through the tach and the "run" circuit isn't. Remember that the 240z tach works via current, so any current going to the coil has to go through the tach for it to work.
Hope that helps. If you need more info post back and I'll try to look through my notes because I went through this when I did my swap.
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If there is a difference it should be minor. I put a '75 280z tank in my '73 and the two tanks are dimensionally very close if not the same. There are less vent lines on the '75 tank and the straps fit a little differently but that is all I remember. The '74 tank should be very close to either of these.
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Try to find the oldest, nastiest radiator shop in the worst part of a bad town. I did and got mine dunked in their acid tank and epoxy-lined for $100. Other than that, the DIY option is the way to go.
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Timing should be around 10 degrees BTDC at idle.
240Z running super rich, need some input!!
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Did you see this reply on zcar.com?
(quote)
It sounds like you are doing everything right so this is a bit of a mystery. When you screw your fuel adjusting nuts all the way up, you should cut off enough fuel that the engine will not run. Are your needles set so that the needle shoulder is flush with the bottom of the piston and not the groove in the piston?
You may have worn or mis-matched jets in the carbs that are letting fuel pass the needle at full lean. One thing you can try is this:
1) loosen the set screw on the needle in the carb so that it can slide in and out but not so loose it will fall out and pull the needle so that the shoulder is well above the piston bottom.
2) Screw mixture nut all the way up (lean).
3) Carefully place the piston back in the carb so that the needle slides into the jet. This should push the needle back into the piston but only so far that it is still sealing the jet.
4) Remove piston and tighten set screw to lock the needle in that postion. You might find that the shoulder of the needle is slightly raised from the bottom of the piston. This should allow you to cut the fuel completely at full lean adjustment.
(/quote)
Katman mentioned something similar above. You should not be able to have the car run if the mixture nuts are screwed all the way up.
I don't think you have a problem with your fuel filter, mine used to be like that (I don't have a clear filter any more).