DCZ

Other than a hot blond What would you look for when looking at a V8 Z that is already converted? Besides the "normal" Z rust/suspension stuff - are there any V8 specific things to look for, such as: How do you tell whether it is in the JTR or Scarab position? Any way to tell whether the driveshaft angle is correct without driving the car and feeling for vibration? How to tell alum. heads vs iron - do they just "look" like aluminum? Any way to tell a 305 vs 350 vs 383 etc from the outside? Any particularly bad or good carb/intake to look out for? Any suggestions appreciated!

Thanks for the info. Those look great. If I made my own out of Bud cans, would that make Anheiser Busch my sponsor?

John, could you elaborate on what you mean by a "can" to surround the rotor? I understand the need to somehow deflect air to both sides of a solid rotor, just having a hard time picturing it in my head - know of any web links that may show this? BTW, I have plenty of "Bud" cans - will they work?

Zfan, I've done this several times using needle-nosed pliers to squeeze the end of the rod through the hole in the door handle. Hard to explain, but position the pliers so that one jaw pushes the end of the rod/plastic bushing and the other jaw of the pliers is pushing on the part of the door handle that the rod goes through. A little silicone lube spray helps too. Don't worry if you've bent the rod, bend it back to the approx. shape and it should work.

Al - Please post some details when you figure out what is what. This is a poorly documented area of our cars.

I'm far from an expert but here's my take on it: SU's work by creating a vacuum at the jet tube. As air is sucked through the carb, a low pressure area is formed in the venturi area of the carb - where the jet and needle are located. Fuel is pulled up past the needle by this low pressure (which is "low" relative to the air pressure at the float bowl vents). If you try to force air through the carb by creating a higher pressure than atmospheric in your air box then you reduce the pressure gradient that pulls the fuel. However, it seems there must be a way to overcome this, because there was a single SU turbo system that used to be sold for the 240z. It may be as simple as having your float bowl vents pressurized to the level of your forced air. Anyone have experience with the SU turbo system? Is the air injected before or after the needle/jet?

Nice work! Check your front calipers, though. From the picture it looks like the bleeder screw is at the bottom! You won't ever get them bled like that. Switch calipers left to right and you'll be ok.

I have stock brakes on my 71(L28) that are in good condition with stainless hoses and fresh fluid. Stopping power is fine and pedal feel is great, but I warped my rotors after three 20 min track sessions. I'm a novice so maybe I was on the brakes too much? Can I run a vented rotor with stock calipers?

Cleaning up a j/y ZX 5-speed to put in my 240. Input shaft has some side-to-side play, about 1-2mm. Is this normal or excessive? Spins smoothly and output shaft has no play. What do you all think? Thanks