DCZ

5 Star Rising - Sounds like your reaction disk fell off somewhere in all that adjusting. The "brakes gradually locking up while driving" symptom is exactly what happened to mine when I let the reaction disk fall. I had to take the Booster off, hold it flat so the Master Cylinder side was pointing up, then shake it violently and let the reaction disk fall down into the "well". Then re-install making sure the rod doesn't pull out and let the reaction disk fall again. Very frustrating, I know. Here's a good tip: If you find yourself in this situation (brakes locked up due to reaction disk missing), you can loosen the nuts holding the Master Cylinder onto the Booster so that the M/C can pull about 1/4" away from the booster. Don't take them completely off, you don't want the M/C to be hanging in the breeze. This way you have enough brake to limp back home but the brakes won't lock up.

I'll add: When you go to spray that PB Blaster on the rusty bolt, make sure the nozzle is pointed at the bolt and NOT your eye. Yes, I did that. Perfect shot from 2 feet away!

Good idea! Why didn't I think of that (DUH!). Thanks Dave you've been a big help.

It is advertised in a local classified. Sellers description is in my first post. Supposedly new, Garrett T3/T04E. Looks like it's worth checking out.

Thanks Dave, Sorry for the confusion, the turbo descriptions are right from the seller and maybe that is adding to my misunderstanding. From the link you provided it seems that these turbos are probably T04E with 57 trim (I'll try to verify that). I understand what A/R is but I don't know how it affects the choice of a turbo. It seems from my reading that a larger A/R will support higher flows (therefore HP) at the possible cost of more boost lag (is this true?) I played around with the formulas in one of the links in the Turbo Sticky and got an estimated air flow rate of 27 lb/min. This would put me right in the "sweet spot" of the T04E 57 trim turbo map. I should play around with more number estimates to see if that 27 lb/min is a good number to use. As far as internal/external wastegates go, I have experience only with my current T3 internal wastegate. If/when I upgrade, I don't mind the extra cost/work for an external wastegate if it will improve the final result. I currently have a 2.5 inch downpipe so an upgrade may be in order anyway. It seems to me that the two turbos in question differ only the the turbine A/R, with the larger .84 A/R turbine having a split housing, which does not gain me anything with an L28 AFAIK. Now, the .84 vs .63 will most likely make a difference, but I don't know what that would be. Any comments/discussion appreciated.

I would talk to James if I were going to buy from him. I don't want to waste his time. I am asking about these specific turbos because they are available at a rediculous price so if one will work for me I will buy it now, even though I am not ready to install it.

Been searching the archives trying to edumacate myself and my head is spinning. I admit - I'm confused! I have a line on either of two turbos for an excellent price and am not sure if they would work for me. my engine - stock L28t, p90a head (hyd) in a 73 240z my goals - solid 300 hp, ~15psi, intercooled, megasquirt turbos (sellers description) supposedly Garrett T3/T4 hybrid #1) 3" Inlet 2" outlet .50 A/R stage 3 compressor wheel .63 A/R turbine .57 trim. Will bolt up to a t3/t4 manifold has a wet floating bearing 1/8 oil inlet 5 bolt exhaust flange. #2) .50 compressor housing .84 A/R divided turbine housing .57 stage 3 compressor wheel. It also bolts up to a t3/t4 manifold. Would either of these turbos be a good choice for me or am I missing something? What would be advantage/disadvantage of one over the other? I am assuming I would have to go external wastegate with either(?). Is there any other info I need to make a decision? Thanks for any advice. I'm new to turbos so talk to me like you would a six year old. Then dumb it down

Clean and re-seat EVERY electrical connector under the hood and at the ignition control box. Use dielectric grease on them. That will prevent or solve a lot of little glitches with these cars. Have Fun!

If the fuel pump does not run right away, check the connector on the rear deck to see if you have power. If you have power, the pump may just be "stuck". Try jumping 12V directly to the connector while tapping the pump with a hammer. Also try reversing the polarity a few times for short bursts to see if that will free it up. Also, the input of the pump has a small filter inside that clogs easily when these cars sit. I had to do all that to get my 83T started but it is running well (a few minor issues) after a 12 year nap.

Which carbs do you have? If you have the original stock 73 (flat top) carbs, the rebuild kit will be very different. I'm guessing that is what the MSA kit is. The $20 VB kit probably is for the 70 - 72 (round top) carbs and contains some washers, a float bowl gasket and maybe a float bowl valve. Check out http://www.ztherapy.com. I would buy SU stuff from them before either of the other two just because they specialize in these carbs and can help you out better.

My pedal wouldn't drop to the floor. It gave very little resistance until it was pretty far in it's travel and then it was solid. I think the only way you could get the brake pedal to the floor would be if you had air in the lines.

Well it looks like this was the problem I was having. I pulled the booster off the car but could not see any way to pull the pushrod out or otherwise access the inside of the booster without twisting the two halves apart like the service manual shows. So I held the booster with the master cylinder side pointing straight up, held the pushrod up and out of the way, and shook the booster so that the reaction disk could fall back down into the "well". IT WORKED! I couldn't tell by looking at it, but I put it back on without doing anything else and the brakes are working properly. Pedal is high and firm, just like Lindsay Lohan's . . . well, you get the idea. Just wanted to bring this thread back up to confirm that the symptoms above can be caused by a missing reaction disk and that you can shake it back into place without taking apart the booster.

Pumping the accel pedal won't do a thing. Is your car a stock ZXT? When you turn the ignition switch to the "run" position your fuel pump should run for a few seconds and then turn off. Turn the key back off and on a few times and you should pressurize your fuel system.

OK John, grab your bullet-proof vest and come on over to Durham. Beer is in the fridge! LOL! Damian Jon M - thanks for the info. Last time I "just took the booster off" cost me several scraped knuckles, a bonked head (watch out for that steering column!) and a bunch of cursing.

Maybe a simple question but, how do you "check" the reaction disk with everything installed on the car? Can I unbolt the master cylinder keeping the fluid lines attached, pull it away from the booster and stick my finger in there? Is it possible to look in the booster and see it? Seems like the booster rod is in the way. I have a similar problem in that the pedal is VERY easy to push with only slight braking action for the first few inches and then WHAM! the brakes instantly grab. I'm trying to figure out whether it is just air in the lines, a maladjusted booster rod or a fallen reaction disk. Stock 73 240z brake system.

If you have a "small bumper" (early) 260z then the suspension is the same as the 240z. If you have a "large bumper" later 260z then you would want 280 springs. The 240 springs will make the rear end sit up too high, I think.

Email sent.

Looks promising!!! Did anyone ever tell you that you ARE the man!?!

Does anyone know of a compatible output shaft seal for the Nissan T5 that came in the 82/83 ZXT? Nissan part # C2136-P9500 is the correct part but has been discontinued according to the local Nissan dealer as well as Courtesy and MSA. Anyone have an old Nissan T5 they aren't going to use and want to sell me the dust shield/rear seal? (Don't try to separate the rubber seal from the dust shield, you will destroy it. Don't ask me how I know) Thanks for any info.

I have one. PM or post here if you are still interested.

Same pump. No problemo. At least, that is what my searching has indicated.

Another good junkyard solution is a mid 90's, maybe others, Grand Caravan. The weatherstrip around the side sliding doors fits the s30 doors very well. like the Volvo, start at the 90* corner and press on. I have them on my 73 so that makes it a HybridZ