DCZ

I'm not an expert but here's my "limited" viewpoint: >will putting on an adjustable fpr help or is a lower psi not going to affect the overall flow? Lowering the fuel pressure would probably help - less fuel would squirt through each time the injector opens - but you would be shooting in the dark trying to figure out the right pressure. Also the right pressure at one rpm would likely be the wrong pressure at another. >does a zxt ecu control the fuel flow better or something? The N/A ecu is programmed to inject "Y" amount of fuel based on "X" amount of air that is measured by the AFM (this is a simplification but that's basically how it works). It does this by varying the length of time that the injectors are open. The ZXT injectors will flow more fuel during that length of time and the N/A ecu can't compensate enough to work well. I would guess that the turbo ecu would make the problem worse b/c you don't have that turbo stuffing more air into the engine. >i figured that with more air going in and out of the motor and a hotter spark i would be ok with the zxt injectors. I don't think you are getting the amount of air into your engine that you would if you had a turbo. It's not so far off that the engine won't run, it just doesn't run as well as it would if the injectors were the right ones. If you had a standalone programmable ecu you could adjust things to work with the higher flow injectors but I don't think there is anything you can do with the stock ecu. Don't take everything I say as the final word, as I said I'm no expert!

Maybe your ignitor (power transistor on the coil bracket) is starting to go? Try hitting it with some freeze spray when the missing starts. That should rule it in or out pretty quickly. Also, I would TEST that battery voltage. Reason being that the symptoms you describe (even pattern of flashing/missing) is EXACTLY what mine was doing. Plus, when you rev 2500 rpm the alternator would kick in and raise your voltage, eliminating the problem. Too bad I'm not closer, I'd run over and scratch my head in person. Might not figure it out but at least we could drink a few beers while trying.

Are you running the stock ECU with turbo injectors? If so you are probably running way too rich and that could cause what you are seeing. The turbo injectors flow too much fuel if you are using the N/A ECU.

My initials are DC and they both rhyme with Z so it just seems natural.

Make sure you have good battery voltage, 12.5V or more. Mine started doing that when I was running it w/o the alternator belt for diagnostic purposes. After a while the battery voltage fell just enough for the ignition to start dropping out.

>any newer cars in the junk yards use the same type connector? I got some injector connectors from a late 90's (I think) Pontiac Grand Prix. They are the nice ones with the squeezable clip, not the ones you have to pry out and drop in the dirt. Recommended!

I'm in! Paypal sent. I want to test the effects of 20" spinner rims, curb feelers and a chrome windshield visor.

Warren, That one is helpful, but it sounds like the one michez found has the pin numbers identified on the ECU (more properly, ECCS). The factory manual has those pinouts and it is helpful when you are probing a rat's nest of PO "fixes". michez - maybe post the diagram on photobucket or putfile like OTM suggests. I would like to have it as a reference.

"How to take a flaming dump"

John, I have a fiberglass BRE spook that can be used if interested. I would also love to be there/help out if needed.

Do you think this could be a blown head gasket? I haven't had any coolant/oil mixing.

mom'sZ - Pulling an engine is not THAT big a deal for me since I have a garage and hoist, etc. Just that right now I have NO time for this whaaa, whaaa, cry, cry! I have never rebuilt an engine. This one was done by the PO right before I bought the car. It has always run well, dyno'd at 123HP and 130TQ. Had much better compression when I bought it. I'd like to find out if this is something I did or if it is a result of the loose timing chain tensioner.

Referring to my previous posts: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115269 If you don't want to read back, short synopsis is: L28, carbed, 15K miles on rebuild. I noticed timing chain guide was loose, pulled front cover, replaced guide bolts, started up and all was well for 30 sec. before lots of clacking ensued. video here: Checked cam timing, all marks line up. Rotate engine by hand - no problem. Rotate engine by starter with plugs out watching valve train - no problem. Valves adjusted - no problem. Compression test (cold) 180, 170, 170, 150, 160, 170. Rod bearing clearances tested with plastigage - all within spec. Finally borrowed a leakdown tester - 5%, 11%, 15%, 17%, 5%, and, (drumroll please) 47%. Looks like #6 has some major problems. I don't understand why #6 had such a drastic leakdown when compression was good. Also, when I pressurized #6, I could feel air escaping out of #4 and slightly out of #2 spark plug holes. Air escaped out of #2 very slightly when I pressurized one of the other cylinders but I forget which one (notes not in front of me). All other leaking air seemed to be going into the crank case. I could detect no air leaking into the intake or exhaust. Are these enough clues for anyone to tell me what is wrong? Somehow air is leaking out of #6 and coming back through #4 so I must have broken rings or cracked a piston or 2 (?) Is it time for me to pull this engine and break it down to see what else I find? Do I have any alternative at this point other than pull the head and/or pull the whole engine? Thanks.

Vent line on the 240z should run down the driver's (left in US) side frame rail in the engine compartment.

I noticed that one of mine will get noisy if I let the oil level get lower than 1/2 way between the Full and Add lines (leaky oil pan plug). I added about 1/4 qt of Marvel Mystery Oil and topped off with 10/30 and it has been quiet (knock on wood). Thumper - what do you mean by "cam shaft bolts" - do you mean the cam tower bolts? Loosen them to get the rockers off? I'm confused.

I got the injector connectors from a junkyard. Look for '90s pontiacs, I think I used a Grand Prix. Very nice connectors that you squeeze to remove/connect. No more little wire to curse at! Other late model injected cars have similar injectors, just poke around and see what you find.

I should start taking bets . . . I'll figure it out eventually.

Tried pulling the spark plug wires one by one and it was inconclusive. I didn't pull the plugs like you suggested SU'dCrazy. I said screw it and pulled the oil pan. Measured rod bearing end play (longitudinally along the crank shaft) and it was between 0.2 and 0.3 mm on all rods which is in spec. I could not get any other play on any of the rods and everything looked good as I rotated the engine by hand. All the bearing caps were tight, though I did not check the bolt torque on them. All the piston skirts look good and the cylinder walls I could see looked good also. Anything else I should look into while I have the oil pan off? I did find the lower timing chain guide bolt in the sump. Do you think the crank could have been hitting the bolt and making the noise? The pan is a little dented but I could not see any evidence that they were new dents and none of them were "bolt-shaped" LOL!

John, I found mouse pads to be too thick for the flapper doors. I went to the Scrap Exchange in Durham and found some thinner closed cell foam that seems to work well. I think I have some extra if you want it. Damian (Triangle Z Club)

Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't take the air cleaner off so it's not likely something got sucked in. I never did find the tensioner bolt, but then I didn't take the oil pan off when I changed the front cover either. I'll try pulling the plug wires one at a time and let you know what I find. Thanks BTW, when it rains, it pours. My daily driver 73 240zt and only running car just lost the power booster. The Z Gods are Angry!!

Posted this on another site, now I need opinions from the experts: Short version: Loose timing chain guide. Pulled cover, top bolt was halfway out, bottom bolt missing. Replaced bolts, checked cam position, distributor timing, everything looked right. Started up, idled great for 30 sec then clack, clack, clack. Problem was described in more detail here: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=685346&t=685346 compression test 180, 170, 170, 140, 150, 180. I made two videos, the first with the plugs out turning the motor over. Seems perfectly normal. The second is a short startup/idle so you can hear the clack. What do you think? First video Second video Not sure how to troubleshoot and am nervous about running it any more than I have. What do you think I should do next?

Wow white/black looks GOOOOD! I didn't think I would like it but I do. Good Job! BTW, you need to sand out those runs by the driver's marker light quickly. They make it look like someone loved the paint job a little toooo much

If the steering coupler is already removed in the engine bay, unplug the wiring to the switches on the column (or alternatively remove the switches from the column and let them dangle) then undo the four bolts that hold the column to the firewall and the two or four bolts that hold it to the underside of the dash. Withdraw the column from the cabin. Once outside the car, turn the column vertically, letting the steering shaft fall on your foot. At least, that's how I did it. You may want to substitute something else for your foot. Really, it's not hard at all. Good Luck!

Read through this thread and proceed if you dare: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106731

Hi Vinh, I installed the MM cv adapters (not the billet ones but the ones they weld to the stub axle) and it was a tight fit. I did not think I would get the inner control arms to bolt back up but I kept trying and prying everything and they just barely made it. I thought the axles would bind when I got it back down on the ground but they haven't and everything is working great. BTW this is a pair of 83 ZXT 2+2 axles into a 73 240Z and I did not switch driver/passenger sides or do anything else unusual. Good Luck!