Jerminator96

I am inclined to believe that the most important part about selecting a cam is choosing the appropriate valve opening and closing events to meet your goals. The LSA and duration should be consequences of these choices, and not the other way around.Now of course, to appropriately choose the valve events you must know the flow characteristics of your heads and intake and also which harmonic wave you are tuning to (pertaining to the incoming air). The goal is orchestrate the valve movements to where the intake valve is opening just as the momentum of the incoming air is shifted towards the valve and then have it snap shut just as equilibrium is reached between the cylinder and intake runner (usually just after BDC).Proper cylinder filling is the only way to make horsepower to your engine's potential, and with the right setup you can see volumetric efficiency well over 100%.I must add that a lot of these ideas are based on wide open throttle and part throttle operation can throw in many different variables. Also, these are ideas that I have gleaned from people much more wise than myself and therefore I may have left out some small bit of crucial information. It is in your best interest to seek the help of a talented cam grinder and or head porter.On a side note, I agree with the idea of using the Dart Pro 1 heads, they seem to give most people excellent results and they apparently flow great straight out of the box.

Maybe it's just me, but I would be really cautious about cheap ebay headers that are made out of stainless steel or are coated. Obviously you would expect the coating to flake off, and I would put some solid money on the welds cracking on those stainless headers. Just my $.02, I never could weld stainless well anyway.

Thanks for the link. I guess if they work then that is the route I will be taking here in a couple weeks when I do my SBC swap. Holy crap you have an awesome ride!

Your best bet may be taking it to a shop to have them tune it and adjust the timing. It can be tough to diagnose a problem if you don't know much about SBCs.

I'd say that is a fair summary. Out of curiosity, would you want to use pushrods and bellcranks or a more conventional spring setup on your custom suspension? I will have to agree with you about the pigs that are rolling off the line today, it's disgusting. I was a big camaro guy (still am really) but lately I have been trying to find something lighter to toy around with. Hence my 1971 240Z!

Wait until you see the High Test Peroxide power plant I'm working on for my motorcycle. So the LSD center for the R200, huh? Are their any upgrades available for the stub axles? What part actually breaks?

2 very good points. I just got back from measuring a mock up and it doesn't look good. I really should have taken some pictures. The biggest problem is definitely with the trans interfering with the seats, unless I lose about 100lbs (and I'm already 180lbs). Hmmm, you make a compelling argument. Of course now that I can't do the corvette rear I don't really have any desire to make something just to be "different." So a stock R200 can really handle that kind of power? For the record, being an engineer is like a disease. We come up with hair-brained ideas and then spend many sleepless nights trying to figure out how to make it possible. I rarely stop to consider whether it's "necessary," that's why we have bean-counters at work to keep us within budget.

I'm not really sure where the "ugly" comes from, I never said it. And I'm sure it can handle some power, but it is still a very poor design. So if I have the means to change it, why not right? That's what this hobby is all about.

Huh....well there is something I didn't know about Z cars. That being said, I would imagine with a good bit of horsepower these cars could use some extra weight in the rear. Maybe there is some point to it after all? Either way, I suppose I will have to rethink my idea.

Yes it can. The turbo guys will sometimes use a megasquirt because of the limitations of a stock computer, and the financial limitations of not being able to afford a FAST system. I am not 100% sure that I've ever seen someone use a megasquirt without also using the stock PCM. That being said, I think most of that has to do with the fact that they still have the camaro, so the stock PCM is good for running the electronic gauges and everything else. Your best bet would be to call the guys at megasquirt and ask them, they may tell you that their system can't work with the optispark (though I don't know why) or they may say that it will work fine. I'm 100% sure that it can control your fuel though. Again, my question would be, why spend the time and money on that when you can get a stock PCM and harness for ~$150? You could even use the '93 setup that I found, you just wouldn't be able to use a MAF, it would have to be tuned in "speed density" configuration. Which is fine unless you want to add forced induction or nitrous.

You are correct, the Camaro received the LS1 in 98 (the Vette got it in 97). I found a cheap harness and computer but they are for a '93, so I'll just have to keep an eye out for you.

I just looked at your links and wanted to make mention that to the best of my knowledge those two pieces will not work together. There are differences between the 93, 94-95, and 96-97 computer systems, and they need the corresponding wiring harness.

I don't know what you consider cheap, but $260 for a manifold isn't too bad. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2D24502592&autoview=sku This also allows you to use a standard distributor, and as anyone familiar with the optispark can tell you, that's an option that is worth its weight in gold. As far as what makes the LT1 so great, I would say it's the cylinder head design. There are many EFI setups for GenI SBCs, but it's the highly refined, very efficient combustion chamber of the LT1 that makes it special. That being said, the LT1 is only great in stock form compared to other stock motors. I'd take a Dart Pro 1 headed SBC over an LT1 any day, and a GenIII motor over both of them. Edit: On a side note if all you need is a PCM I can get one for you for a lot less than you will spend going another route, just PM me.

That's what it's intended for, to meet CAFE requirements. My 99 Z28 regularly saw 27+mpg on the highway, and 22 mpg in town with "spirited" driving. ReefsRocket: If you wanted to simplify the process I believe you can find a carb intake for the LT1. I know that they make them for the GenIII motors, I'm not 100% about the GenII though. I'll look into it for you.

Deja: The F-body only had that gearing in '93, for 94-02 the first gear was 2.66 and sixth was .50:1. ReefsRocket: The T56 is indestructible with a stock LT1, and with minor upgrades can handle ~700rwhp in a 3500lb car (ask me how I know;-)). So I would highly recommend it. However, you don't really need it in a light car. So if the budget is you main concern, don't break the bank. If you do want to find one, Camaro websites are the place to look. Don't buy a corvette T56 unless you want to get into some serious modification.

This can answer your questions: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corvette_leaf_springs They do make coil-over kits for them.

One thing you guys need to keep in mind is how different the C5 and C6 corvette drivetrain is from the C4 and earlier. Here is a picture of the C5 rear: Notice that the transmission is bolted directly to the differential, with the driveshaft/torque tube preceding it. It makes for a very well balanced front engined car, but also brings up some difficulties in fabrication.

Well my car is ugly due to rust and years of dirt and grime, however, I did not mean to imply that there was anything inherently ugly about the suspension. It's "horrible looking" because the design is weak, everything from the rear end onward is just not designed to handle the kind of power I will eventually throw at it. On a side note, that's a really nice looking setup you have there. What does the rest of the car look like?

I just picked up a '71 240z for an SBC swap and started thinking that I might try to upgrade that horrible looking rear suspension. So has anyone tried to swap in the suspension and rear mounted trans/differential from the C5 vettes? Looks like a good bit of cutting and welding but this car is all but back-halved already. Any thoughts or ideas on this would be appreciated. Jeremy

Thanks Oleh, I don't need aftermarket heads, just aftermarket cams with more duration/lift. If you ever get those heads flow tested let me know. Are you familiar with the VK45? Do you know any differences between the 2 as far as port size, design, etc.? Thanks, Jeremy

I appreciate it.

come on guys, someone has to know something about these motors?

Hey guys, I'm obviously new here, but I have a few questions for those more knowledgeable than I (doesn't take much). 1) Anyone know the bore spacing on a VK56 block? 2) Anyone have flow numbers for VK56 heads? 3) Is there any aftermarket for the heads? (mainly cams and springs) Thanks in advance for all your help guys. Jeremy