Jerminator96

You want to run those heads on a 427?That doesn't sound very efficient. I guess when you get bored later you can always throw on some decent heads and swap out the rest of the top end, but I'm a 'do it once, do it right' kind of guy.

I wouldn't worry about having 'too many gears' with the 6spd, you don't have to use all of them. In my Z28 I used to run first gear to redline to smoke some fool in his riced out honda then throw it in sixth and cruise on. Sixth gear is definitely not a performance option, but with a .5:1 ratio I would get 28mpg on the highway. I used it all the time in that heavy car so I would imagine I'll be using it all the more often in my 240Z.

God Bless 'Castle Doctrine' and the states that have adopted it!Sorry about your car dude, you did the right thing though. Even if you were armed it would be ridiculous to try and pull a gun on a guy who was already drawn and ready.I'm just glad I live in a town where I can leave my doors unlocked with the keys on the dashboard.

Well that is the downside to using those old heads, but the machinist is probably only going to charge you for 3 hours of work. Maybe more or less depending on how well you know him. Seeing as how he already worked the heads over for you maybe he'll cut you a deal.I think you should take it as a sign that you are supposed to get some 12* Brodix heads.

That is some great information man, especially the second and third links.

I'll do my best to explain this. Static compression ratio describes the amount of air compressed by the piston relative to the size of the cylinder. In other words, from bottom dead center to top dead center in a 10:1 compression motor the air in the cylinder is compressed into a space 1/10th of the total volume of the cylinder. This is not taking into account the time that the valves are open. Dynamic compression ratio calculates the compression from the time that the intake valve is closed until the piston is at top dead center. While the intake valve is open the cylinder cannot build pressure, so the DCR should always be significantly lower than the SCR. Now what really matters in detonation is cylinder pressure, which takes into account many factors (humidity, air temp, volumetric efficiency, rpm, etc) and it is nearly impossible to calculate accurately. Some of the serious engine builders have started to use in-cylinder pressure transducers to data log this information, but most of us don't have the money to set something like that up. Read this, it probably does a better job explaining everything. http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html Why can't you make those numbers with 8.5:1 compression? I could build you a motor that makes 600hp with 8.5:1 compression, it would be expensive, but I could do it. If I can make 385rwhp with a 355 then you can make 400rwhp with a 383, and if my motor could take over 15psi and 800rwhp on pump gas then you can get that little Weiand blower to work at 9.5:1 SCR. Just my $.02 though.

I still think you are attaching too much importance to compression ratio. You must realize that the static compression ratio has very little practical influence on your motor. If you want the 400rwhp now and the potential to add a blower later, then you should consider getting rid of your ZZ4 (or at least the top end) and getting a bigger motor (at the very least a 383) with some great cylinder heads. That way you can build it with a blower in mind and yet make the power you want even without the blower. I ran a 355 built for a turbo N/A for a while and made 385rwhp. It had a 9.5:1 static compression ratio and made a little over 800rwhp with a T-88. It didn't run to it's potential N/A but it was a trade off I made so I could add the turbo later without worrying about rebuilding the motor. For the record I agree with grumpyvette, just build a nice reliable motor and put the bottle to it.

I say go for the blower. It's a simple solution and it looks awesome!As for your compression ratio, static CR doesn't really mean anything. What matters is cylinder pressure and dynamic CR gives you a better idea of that. For what it's worth, the Kawasaki ZX14 guys are running turbochargers on their stock 12.5:1 setup and doing it with pump gas! If you want your motor to survive then worry more about your choice of cam and your timing/tune.

Where are you at in NC? If you're anywhere near Apex or Wilmington we could possibly be of use to each other in the build process.

This thread should be interesting, I'm going to have to keep an eye on it.

Is mountain driving really a concern in a sub-3000lb car with a 6.0L?Even if you aren't making the HP in the low end, you're still making a whole lot more than the stock motor.

It can be confusing at times. Aside from the Chevy Corvette, Camaro, Impala, and Caprice, the LT1 also came in the Pontiac Firebird/TransAm, Buick Roadmaster, and Cadillac Fleetwood.Rest assured you are still going to be putting good 'Bowtie' power under the hood of your Datsun.

You were probably just searching the wrong section. Seeing as how you have a GenII small block chevy, you should be looking in that section rather than the 'other V8Z' tech section.Goodluck with the swap!

I can't speak for the carb, but if it doesn't work you can always do the LSx coil per cylinder conversion. It's not the cheapest thing in the world, nor is it the easiest way....but it sure does look cool. As for transmissions, what are you looking for? You can make anything fit, from an old powerglide 2spd auto to a T56 6spd manual. The classic TH350 is a great option as is the T5 if you prefer a manual.

Word of advice, ditch the octane booster. For one, it doesn't help unless you use a whole lot of the stuff. If you do use a lot then you are probably getting more tetra-ethylene lead than is good for your motor.You probably don't need the stuff at all, but if you are having ping issues (my camaro always did when it was really hot out) then go to a Sherwin-Williams and pick up a couple gallons of Toluene.

That's something I forgot to ask, auto or manual? I've had a bad clutch give some awful vibrations at odd times.

I'm with Shaggyz, wheels/tires/alignment would be my first guess.Your motor is fine and most likely your transmission, they don't care what MPH your moving at, just the RPM.How pissed would you be if you sold your baby only to find out it was just a tire out of balance?

I say buy the LS1/4L60E and sell it for profit. Then either find a 5.3 for $100 (they're out there) or spend the money on your current setup. Just my $.02

A $450 LS1? What all did you get with it, that's not a bad price. I'm just about to (re)start my swap. I had a SBC/TH350 combo but I found a killer deal on a T56 from a 2000 Camaro and another good deal on a Vortec 5.3 so I'm revising my plans and going the LSx route. Good luck. Jeremy

David Vizard is my hero. A lot of the stuff I may say about performance that sounds intelligent is probably stolen from one of his books or his website forum. That's a hard deal to pass up for new, complete heads. And you never want to make your builder mad so you should probably stay away from the Dart stuff. My vote is Brodix. They're as good as you need them to be and they are fairly cheap.

200cc intake runners seems a bit small to me for a motor that size, but then I've never built one that topped out at 5000rpm either, so you're probably fine. What is a "good deal," and is it so good you wouldn't consider a set of Dart Pro1s?

Must be a Chinese part. They put poison in our dog food, lead in our kid's toys, and now whistles in our vacuum lines...where will it end!!!You can block off that line without any problems, I'm fairly certain anyway. The LT1 guys do.

Mark hit it, it's probably the opticrap. I've seen guys go through 3 before they find one that works for more than a few miles. Then again, my old roommate has a LT1 with 300K on the odometer and has never so much as pulled the valve covers (for fear of it falling apart suddenly) that he still drives daily, in Cleveland winters no less. Stock motor, stock tranny, stock optispark.It's just luck of the draw as best as I can figure. You might give MSDs version a try or do a LS1 coil per cylinder conversion.

LS7 a different degree than the LS1? Doesn't sound right to me, more deck height maybe, but all SBCs are and ever will be 90 degree V8s.

Just out of curiosity, which hand did you lose? I remember a guy who lost his right hand in a racing accident who had a special shifter knob made that he could 'clip into' with his prosthesis and shift.Pretty good idea if you ask me, but you'd have some difficulty if it's your left hand. And for that matter if you like drag racing you're better off with an auto anyway, especially if the turbo bug ever bites you.