roger280zx
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Posts posted by roger280zx
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I would keep the heat and remove the radio if only to offset the weight of the knee bar. Radio is what phones are for, right? And like johnc said, don't hit your head.
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L28et, 4l60, aluminum irs 8.8 with whatever the hell gear you want sounds better.
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That is the cleanest I've ever seen those parts together.
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Why not fab a plenum from aluminum and bring it to a competent tig welder? I know lots of guys who love to weld but hate to make stuff fit, I have had great success trading time with them. I can run a grinder with my eyes closed.
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If you are going to rattle can it, do it like this. Lots of light coats, with a little wet sanding the only people who will know it was a rattle can job are the ones who watched the video. The only thing I would have done differently is I would have gotten all the leaves off of the ground, cleaned the surrounding area and soaked all that concrete with water. That way there is no trash in the paint.
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Are you breaking 200's or are you just looking for long gears?
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Model: 1979 280zx
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That is a recommendation on how to install an s10 rear end in a z. My failed attempt at pun.
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Still available, and I have found the discs for more like $110 making it more affordable for you.
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Remove passenger seat, open hatch, place ballast (s10 rear end) in car, secure hatch, go race.
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Jody told me about the crash, sorry to hear it. Glad you're not hurt and the car isn't beyond repair. Congrats on the championship!
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I have one, $115 shipped in the 48.
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Twice the valves helps the streetability too.
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From me! Mine is for sale for $500 might even work a trade for the AZcar set up.
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I have one too. $35 in Snellville ga with possible trade.
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I dont have any reason Im not going that high up to 7500-8000 rpm its just that I dont see a need to or afraid of something failing at that high of rpm. But I know if I do, my DCOE 45's can more than handle it along with my ARP bolts and MLS gasket. I would be more than estatic if I got 250hp or more out of my setup after all this headwork, however that wasnt primarily my goal, just to have more oompf...
I recently managed to get a set of used high compression 89mm Kameari pistons for a 3.0L setup for a 100$ in near new condition. Ill get some FJ20 rods, and just pack it all away for a rainy day when I am ready to tear the block apart in a few years perhaps.
E production z's make 250 flywheel all the time. That's on 2.8 12:1 .500 and "stock" SU's. No reason you can't do that with no race restrictions and triples. Don't ignore the Header.
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I've had 16x7 +13 with 2254516 with tons of clearance. I would say no problem.
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The benefits of quench are well documented. I imagine the benefits of leaving the stock ish deck on the head would begin with just that.. not everyone wants to take 2mm off their deck, and continue from there. I would speculate marginally better cooling and retention of rigidity but it is pure speculation. 1fastZ has done a lot of work on achieving quench with custom pistons. His ITB 3.1 has ridiculous compression (13:1 iirc) and loves pump gas. Dad had a 283 built in '74 with catalog bought forged domes that were finish machined for his chamber. 13.5:1 iron heads pump (100 octane) 8000 rpm- has nothing to do with a p90 shaved vs. unshaved but just to illustrate different ways to achieve quench.
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I have a QM twin 5.5 setup. The flywheel and clutch assembly weights 9.1 lbs, not sure about the starter adapter but it is almost noting as it is aluminum and like 4x5"x .5". Whole thing is for sale for $500 shipped-just sayin. Safe to say the whole thing with a lighter starter whould be a sum of around -27 to -29 lbs by my guestimation. With most of that weight being driven right off the crank
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The fascination with light wheels is funny. My hoosier R6s weigh so dang much that differences in wheel weight seem pretty trivial. I would like $60 wheels if they were made out of lead! Now if you wanna talk paper-thin drag tires we have something to discuss.
The fascination is with unsprung and rotational weight. The greatest impact to both is made at the wheel and tire. Your r6s are heavy relative to what? According to hoosiers spec sheet the only ones I can find over 30 lbs start with a 3....and end with a....19. For example a 315/35/17 r6 weights 27 lbs, a Kumho exta is 34, and goodyear f1 is 30 lbs. Slicks are always lighter, even r6's.
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Whether it is 36, 360, or 3600 hp matters not. Because stretched tires.
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Wow, that really is some great info. I wonder why I haven't seen that thread before... Definitely a lot to think about. Thank you for letting me know about that thread.
Because you don't know how to search.
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Am I the only one who doesn't find this car a huge deal? Granted it is light years ahead of the last 4 or 5 big internet hype s30s (mostly because of no visible rust), guess I'm just too picky.
WTB: Wide Tires for 16" (2+)
in Parts Wanted
Posted
BFG sells a 255/50.