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roger280zx

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Posts posted by roger280zx

  1. I understand where you're coming from, but i've personally seen and fixed them in the field. You get a car that doesn't have rear brake actuation, it WILL indeed nose dive harder than if the rear brakes were working properly. The rears grab first so you don't get that OH shit dive, i've dealt with it numerous times on several trucks with drum brakes. Sure spring rates and everything play a factor in it, but to say that rear brakes not actuating won't cause a car to dive is false, I've SEEN it, over and over again.

     

    Would you say that front wheel drive cars do not "nose up" on acceleration.  Because that is the essence of your statement.  What I think you are referring to is how when you step on the brakes and you only have 65% of your normal braking force due to the rears not engaging.  Then you get that Oh sh!t- stand hard on the pedal dive.  Not trying to beat you up here dude, as I appreciate your review of the product, but physics is physics.  As far as prop valves are concerned they are but another tuning tool.  There is no plug and play best brakes, not even stock.  There will always be braking adjustments needed, different track, different conditions, different driver, etc. and prop valve is the easiest way to do it. 

  2. You might as well wrap the stock one in vinyl if you're not doing away with the frame.  The frame is where all the weight is in these things.  As for the console I think those are dollars best spent elsewhere.  As they are already quite light AND very low in the chassis.  Unless its just a lipstick part in which case... see above. 

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  3. I have a few sets laying around.  All 150-200K on them, but in great shape.  What are they worth to you?  I also have a new in box set of 86mm Total Seal Gapless rings I'd sell for $105 shipped or $85 if they go with the pistons.

  4. It depends entirely on your application.  My opinion is the lower the revs the closer to the stock injector location; i.e., option 1.  Many higher revving race cars "fog" into the velocity stack at the end of the runner, or option 3.  Both locations can be made to work well, but the latter tends to be difficult to tune at lower revs resulting in high idle and poor low rev drivability.  It does; however, shine in applications with enough head flow/cam to reach the optimal rpm.  But this is all just my opinion.

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