roger280zx
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Posts posted by roger280zx
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Sweet scroll!
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I have one, with modified boots to accept the larger bore and maintain all the factory ports. $80 shipped for the TB with linkage modded, adapter, and the short piece of tube that will allow mounting to the afm without loosing any vacuum ports.
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Why is the question either down pipe only, or 3'' all the way out back to a muffler. There is all kinds of middle ground in between. Keep the muffler but do side exit fore rear wheel is one example, this way you have the sound elimination, but don't have to add the weight (and bends) to carry it around the axles and out the rear. I have seen guys run a turn down just in front of the rear suspension. My car is currently on jack stands receiving 3" dp in SS carrying into the tunnel, then v band to 3" aluminum splitting into a y pipe and dual 2.5" exiting at about 45* in front of the rear wheel. The incentive for this system came when my 2.5" dp to 3" all the way out back to a magnaflow straight through came in at something like 38lbs iirc, new system is less than ten
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You are going too fast/or need an overdrive. With o/d and everything tuned and sorted 27-28 should be no problem. Go through all the tune up stuff, filters, plugs, gaps, fluids, everything, then pump your tires up.
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Have we seen pricing on the SSR's?
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Let me see what I have.
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I have a 280YZ front for sale, fenders and air dam.
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In typical z-ya fashion, you have produced a handsome classic vintage racing Datsun. Keep it up!
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"In the middle under the driver seat" is no where near the muffler. Is the exhaust stock? Is the suspension stock? What size tires?
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17lbs is better than nothing, I guess I am shocked at how much he's getting out of that bimmer. It should be over 100lbs by the time he's finished.
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My friend removed 67lbs of sound deadening material from the rear of his e30. -This got me to scraping, 7lbs removed so far, that was from the shock towers.
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More Tire
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We might be surprised if someone took a late zx and MS'd it and spent some serious dyno time. I think that would give the biggest gains compared to grinding any part of the head.
Serious dyno time.. what like $2500 to extract what? 30-35hp more. I'd rather put 2500 in head and cam, then with typical $350-400 dyno time make 200hp more. But that is if it were my money.
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IIRC Garret did 460 atw with stock head/A grind cam. Bored to 89mm with custom intake mani, 70mm tb, big ole mismatched turbo and lots of boost. I would say that is probably as close to a record you're going to get. After all we have Datsun's, not evo's.
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RS3 and BFG g-force both have 200 treadwear rating. The RS3 was actually just bumped up from a previous rating of 140 this year.
RS3 is very comparable to the dunlop z1 star spec, and i once sold a set of those with 10,000 miles and one mild track day that weren't even past the first wear indicator. I would say this is above average but shows how long they can last under mild use.
Treadwear ratings are about as misleading as manufacturer stated section width and sidewall sizes.
The law states that tire manufacturers may advertise a lower treadwear rating than they actually score (makes them appear stickier to performance tire market); however, they may NOT advertise a higher treadwear rating than they score. It is pretty common practice of performance tire manufacturers to advertise a lower rating than they actually have and no one says they can't change said rating any time they want.
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I have two r200 3.36's pm if interested.
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Stock vg30et was rated at 250, in theory another atmosphere should get 250 more. Given some supporting mods many guys get + 70-80% adding 1 atmosphere in the real world. This is not universal and I haven't done it on a VG but I've seen it on everything from Datsun l6's (sohc) to small block v8's (ohv) to VW i4 (both 16v and 20v).
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Super nice exhaust! If you did those with ls flanges you could sell the hell out of them. What length/size primaries? Again super nice job!
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A 75 is most certainly NOT an s130.
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Watch out, they might bite back talking about how you just don't get their style.
As for me and my house, we shall serve the wider tire.
And they would be correct, this (style) too shall pass. We'll just keep on removing weight, adding power, and striving for traction the way gearheads always have. I'm just an s130 junkie who knows guys that have raced.. ahem RACED... s13's since the 90's and I know how they feel about current styles. I guess I thought my beloved chassis was insulated from such riff raff; however, threads such as this have provided that their truly is nothing holy. Now I am no purist, but this is "Hybridz" and we used to be renowned for our discussions on performance and on the huge amount of intellect and experience that was on tap here. Guess those were the good ole days.
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I really like the splitter design. Do you plan on venting the box behind the wheel out the fender or routing it out the side skirt? My zx has fender vents, but they are much higher on the body.
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Bang the crap out of your fenders and pull the hell out of them, run a 195 and -3 degrees of camber (or more) and you'll be good. Or ask PPK
All this to run a tire that is 10mm more narrow than stock?
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After reading this thread, I was confident in ordering a pair of 15x10J -40 offset wheels for the rear, but they stand 2 inches outwards the body.
The photo below is of the car with the wheel bolted on and lowered on to a block of wood, to see how it will actually stand. Wouldn't this just look wrong and rub with the fender?
If anyone can post photos of similar fitment to give me courage so I can keep them and not sell them for 15x9
Not sure what part of this thread gave you such confidence. My 15x10's where effectively -25 with the spacer, and they barely fit the rear with a very short 23" tire.
280zx manual steering intermitate shaft
in Parts Wanted
Posted
There are more parts required than that. The crossmember is different, pretty much everything is different.