burntread

Hey Phred, What was the length of the harmonic balancer bolt? 16mm thread, 1.5 pitch, ??? length? If you know, it would be greatly appreciated! -Burntread

Mark, the original hardline is even longer than a 20" replacement. It actually gives the SS line too much room and makes it curl a bit. I wonder if Ross wants the shorter 20" hardline for aesthetic purposes because that is what happened on the passenger side. According to Ross' instructions, I removed the hardline on the T junction that went to the passenger side caliper and replaced it with the longer SS line provided. This made it look nicer, but was not necessary. Two short SS lines could have been plugged right into the existing hardlines and that would have been that. I'll wait to see what yours looks like. Maybe it will open my eyes.

Hello all, I finally got the custom SS lines to Ross' S30 Rear Disc Brake Conversion kit ( had to wait almost 3 months) and I'm trying to figure out why the driver's side hardline from the T junction needs to be replaced with a new 20" hardline. The SS brake line that is part of his kit fits right onto the original one. If anyone has any insight as to why this should be done, please enlighten me.

I have a Megan exhaust on my G. The product was well made, easy to install, and came with great replacement hardware. IMO, Megan makes nice stuff!

Take it to a shop and explain how important it is for them to not damage the housing (you can replace the spindle pins). One of mine came out with a spindle pin puller in two minutes. I took the other one to my friend's transmission shop and they used some of their big tools to extract it. Just don't rush them (the shop) and they'll get it out!

Yeah, I tried it on one side and messed with the little rubber bushings, as well. I put the pads back in and the caliper slipped right onto the rotor! Great advice! Thanks!

Cool! I will give that a try. Thanks!

I just received the Rear Disc Brake Conversion kit from M-M and picked up a set of rebuilt 240SX calipers. Now, I'm trying put it all together and mount the things, but I'm having a bitch of a time trying to get the pads far apart enough to slide them down onto the rotor. I've tried to depress the piston for more clearance, but it seems like that isn't the problem. It looks like the part of the caliper that moves (the bar with the bushings that mounts to the caliper body) isn't moving enough to give me the clearance I need. I'm basically looking for suggestions. Thanks guys!

Well, since I can't "un-modify" the crossmember, I'll probably have my friend put my Z on a lift and fabricate and install a Ron Tyler mount instead of trying to recreate the mistake we just did.

So, I'll probably end up getting another crossmember and have everything mounted in place to get precise measurements.

Okay, let's try this again.

Yes, I have gotten rid of the rubber mount and have sandwiched the diff and the crossmember between polyurethane bushings and bolts. Hopefully, some pictures of what I did will come up. If not, I will try again later.

Yeah, I'll probably give Dave a call and see if anyone else has experienced this. He might have a replacement.

dsommer, the AZC moustache bar only seems to go one way and that is with the ears forward. JMortensen, with the R200 and AZC moustache bar installed into my Series I, the front diff crossmember doesn't match up to the body mounting location. It is about an inch short and doesn't reach. If I mount the diff by the crossmember, then the moustache bar is about an inch in front of the two bolts on which it mounts and won't match up. I put thick washers between the diff cover and the bar to forward locate the diff AND keep the bar in the proper position, but the studs coming out of the diff cover are only so long and do not allow enough distance to move the crossmember forward enough. I think I might just install the engine/trans and the diff without the crossmember and have a fabrication shop modify another crossmember to fit and line up the angles of the trans and diff at the same time. Apologies for being longwinded.

I have a '71 240 where I am trying to get an R200 LSD into. I purchased the Arizona Z moustache bar and had the front diff crossmember modified so as to move it forward to mount up to the body. So here is the problem, the setup is too short! I raised the diff, mounted the moustache bar, went to the diff nose to bolt it to the car and it is about an inch away from the mount holes (aft) on the car. In frustration, I took the diff out, unbolted the crossmember and mounted it to the car so I could install the control arms. Any ideas as to why this is? Also, any thoughts on how to remedy? If need be, I could remount the diff and take some photos (but I wouldn't be thrilled). Thanks!

Yeah, I later found out that only 1.3 quarts are required( or fill up to where the shafts go into the diff). I wish someone had pointed this out before I spent $50 on gear oil. I'll just drain and refill to proper level.

The diff is out of the car and sitting on my garage floor, which is level. I imagine I only have to put in another 6-8 ounces, but for precision purposes I was looking for a relatively exact amout, give 2-4 ounces either way. Doesn't matter, though. I found a parts store that carries Royal Purple. I'll just top it off with the quart I bought.

Brand of gear oil is fine, but how much? I did a search and found only 1 post which said 2-3 quarts. Others just say "Pour until it comes out the top hole." I just finished putting 3 quarts of Redline in my R200 LSD with a finned cover and it's STILL not full! Since I had to order the stuff (no one in town carries it on the shelf), I'm trying to find out how much more I need to order. It would have been nice to have placed only one order, but I need more. Or, can different brands of synthetic gear oil be mixed? What about synthetic and petroleum? Thanks in advance for the feedback.

I installed some sound deadening in my 240 with spray adhesive from one of the parts store chain and worked great. One of the types I used worked almost too quickly. That stuff is anchored in there!

Scottintexas, you're looking at an 8 year old post. Look for a wheel that is 7" wide with a zero offset.

IdfMF, I have two '71 gas tanks. One just came out of my car (converting to turbo) and the other is a backup. Don't know if you still need them, but let me know.

Hey Derek, Was that an R200 that you put in your car? If so, what type of gear oil did you use and where is the fill point? Thanks!

I know this is an older post, but I have a question for Veritech-Z. With the 5/8" X 10" bolts you used to replace your spindle pins, did you not reinstall the small lock pin that goes in the middle of the housing or did you just notch the new bolt?

Yes, I have the finned cover, so I guess I should add the greater amount? Also, my question on what type was for what weight. 75w-90, or does anyone have a good suggestion? Thanks again!

So here is my question. After tearing down an 87-89 300ZX turbo R200 LSD, how much and what type gear oil goes back into it when rebuilding? I've been searching and can't find mention of it. Thanks.