Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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well then your best place to start would be taking a look at the interlock and making sure thats working properly. If you do try to take it apart, be careful as its usually under a fair bit of pressure and can sometimes fly out.
Also, I don't know if this could cause it but the shift forks can mistakenly be flipped front to back as well
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check the interlock, ive had that bind before, its a little ball bearing that sits between the two shift rails in the shift tower near the front of the tower. its possible it has seized, and locked your tranny out of second/third
I rebuilt a t90 about a year ago for a 1952 ex military m38 that im restoring, it really is quite a simple tranny, and i remember if the interlock is left out your tranny can shift into 2 gears at once and destroy itself, and i also remember that if it doesnt have a spring, or the spring breaks, it can essentially turn into a perma-lock.
either way, try reading this, these trannies are very simple and not hard to rebuild http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90RebuildGuide/T90rebuild.htm and if that doesnt help, you can contact Novak conversions, theyre great people that deal with these trannies all the timehttp://www.novak-adapt.com/
i guess you got a weird one though, usually these trannies just wont stay in second
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Hey guys, I just did this exact trick last night, worked like a charm. My brother and I threw in 10 lbs and let it sit for 10 minutes before smacking the s$%@ out of the car with some rubber mallets. The tar just flew off it was awesome, a real good stress reliever for anybody who has ever tried welding on the Z only to have a tiny bit of tar gte in the weld and mess it all up. Anyhow great trick.
Cheers
Chris
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If it is an external waste gate, it should be easy to cut and reweld the flange back onto your exhaust manifold in a manner in which is doesn't hit. Basically the wastegate is just a big metal dump valve on your turbo manifold, so there is no harm in re routing it a bit.
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Defiantly if you have the money go for the surge tank, keep in mind you need a second pump, high volume low pressure to fill the tank as well as the tank and fittings itself. The sump works well from a couple people I know who have used it so I figured it is worth a shot.
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I understand the concerns that large bore TB's may be overkill for some applications however lets remember its Hybridz and we are all about being over the top. I guess my beef is bench racing only goes so far and it would be pretty cool to see if there is any difference in performance or driveablity if one were to switch from a 60mm to a 90mm. Its just funny how alot of theoretical ideas seem good on paper but just don't work the same in the real world. Matt K seems to be doing nicely on his SR with the 90mm so who knows, and thats only a 2liter. In a few weeks I'm going to have my RB25det running with a 90mm TB on it like a couple other members on this site, so I guess Ill see then if its a pain to drive ...
Cheers
Chris
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Just a thought, heres how I made a quick and dirty sump for my Dastun. Its a 71 and has absolutely no baffles except a single piece of sheet metal down the center. So some sort of protection is needed for your fuel system. What my brother and I did was first drain purge all the fumes out of our old tank, (fill with water and dry in the sun).Then cut slits in the tank where the sumpa was to cover , and bent out the metal to form "vee's" which point to the sump. This allows gas into the sump but not out as easily. The sump itself was made from an old oil pan sump so it was nicely shaped already. We welded a Tee 3/8ths fitting to the bottom and attached it to our new pickup (3/8ths)s and ran it out the original hole on the gas tank. After all this was done we welded the sucker up and heres the finished product.
The ex-oil pan sump with the 3/8ths T in the bottom for the pickup tube.
The V Slits and internal Pickup (ignore the rough cuts)
The final Product minus paint
Hope this gives you ideas
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My brother and I mounted it the same way and didnt have a problem, we just went and got some nice long bolts to make they'd thread in all the way
Rob Crombie
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That Swain Coating stuff looks pretty attractive, I might look into it this winter, do any of you have much experience with header wrap or turbo socks ? Were on a bit of a deadline as we both go back to school in the fall so we want to get it done. Oh and here is a picture of the inside of the intake.
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Hey guys, thanks for the input, I think the TB should be fine, there are alot of guys running q45 throttle bodies on the RB's and even SR's and they are 90mm's. Only time will tell I guess. As for the Manifold its a KU Engineering model from Thailand, they also made the TB, I got a decent deal on the combo and the fit is really nice too. We are planning on getting a blanket and a some wrap for the turbo and down pipe to keep er a litter cooler, we'll see. Ill should have some pics of the Rad and intercooler we are using too soon, I think I havea pic of the inside of the Intake too it has indivudual trumpets inside for each runner that should work nicely.
Thanks for the support guys !
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Hey All,
So my brother and I just finished test fitting our RB25 into our 240, after months of rust repair. Went in like a charm and its really nice to be well on our way to completing this swap. I tossed up some pics of the mock-up as well as some clearance issues I would like a little bit of input on too. So if you guys have any advice for me I'd really appreciate it. I would also really like to thank you all for the help in this project, especially Bryan Williams And Rockie who stepped up with some sensors we desperately needed. This is the first swap my brother and I have ever done, besides a 52 willies Jeep we restored, so its kind of a big deal as he's only 18 and I am 21. To this point it has taken us about 4 months and counting. We hope to make it to Z Fest in Ontario for any of you Canadians, see you there !
ENJOY !
Heres the specs
R33 RB25DET
Hot tanked and polished head, with redone valves
Stock Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
Calico coated ACL race bearings
RB20 rear sump oil pan and pick up
Rick Wong moter mounts with Supra Isolators
Chinese Top mount header w/ 40mm wastegate
Custom T3/T4 50 a/r turbo with machined and ported housings
Ebay Intercooler
90mm TB
Ku engineering Intake
Stock ECU and manual Boost Controller
Aeromotive Fuel Reg
BBK external High volume pump w/ 3/8ths line
Sumped Gas tank
Carbon Kevlar Clutch
Lightened Flywheel
AND Here are some pics !
The Recipient
Before Body Work
Please note undercoating and Passenger side FenderAfter oh say at least 100 man hours in welding, sand blasting and swearing, we patched up the interior and engine bay, this is before we primered it all. Nothing is worse than welding on that damn undercoat. . .
Now the Fun stuff . . .
Installing the head and Torquing it all down. . .
In she Goes !
And In !
Problems . . . Any ideas if this is safe ? The hot side of our turbo is really really close to the valve covers. . this is just a mock up so there might be a wisker more room left to play in there . . .
Then on the intake side similar problem... we may shift the engine orientation or take a scoop out of the fender. . not 100% yet .. any ideas ?
Finally a close up of the Turbo... she's a doozy, don't mind the chinese housings, they have been ported and the guts are brand new from Garrett, with the littler serial plate etc... we got this all done at a local place we highly recommend.
Thanks for looking ! Any Advice or problems you guys see, we'd love to have input. We are both pretty proud as we have done all the work ourself other than the actual machining of the engine itself.
Cheers
Chris and Rob Crombie
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I have an R33 Rb25det it is currently in the shop getting the bearings etc done, so now would be a perfect time to throw in some restrictors. How many should I put in, I don't have the drain mod done and don't really plan on it either unless I have to. The engine is being prepared and set up to push around 350ish hp at the wheels. Everything is stock minus the bearings internally, which are ACL race bearings with Calico anti friction coatings and ARP head studs. I have an N1 oil pump too. Any how the question is how many restrictors should be installed and what internal diameter? I just read that they are any were from 1-1.5 m. So whats the general consensus on this ? Any body done it before ? The sooner I know the sooner It can get the Zed rolling.
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I know alot of the repair centers for transport trucks carry 4 inch and up Vbands. I'd imagine they'd be SS or pretty tough if they are built to go on a Mack Truck. I plan on getting mine at a local carrier truck center. Might be any easy local source, and Im sure they would chuckle when you tell them you need a 4" v-band to go on a 2.6 liter inline 6!
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I' representing the RB series, my brother and I are throwing a RB25DET with some toys in the 71 after the L26 gave up the ghost. It's defiantly not cheap (not that any swaps ever are) but sourcing stuff in Canada can be tricky. Were shooting for 350hp at the wheels so we figured a RB25 w/ a hybrid t3/t4 and some other stuff should get us there. The RB26 gets real expensive real quick when you have the extra turbo and all the plumbing too so we opted for a 25 w/ some toys. Hopefully see how she runs in the next month or so, while saving up for a standalone, probably wolf not too sure.
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Sounds nice man ! You just gave me more inspiration to get rolling again on my Z. Your running a RB26 correct ? What A/F meter are you running and are you using the stock computer or whats up ?
Any how great work man
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I think this might do the trick if your looking for a crazy formula one sound.
its not turbo'd buuut it has 8 individual throttle bodies !
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Alright folks, Ive hit a slight issue while setting up my new maninfold. I bought a KU Engineering intake manifold with a 90mm throttle body. However, the throttle body seems to have the wrong fitting for the stock Rb throttle position sensor (TPS). The Rb TPS has a peg that sticks out and fits into the throttle body. However as you can see the throttle boddy I have is the exact opposite as the throttle body has a peg that goes into the TPS. Ive fired off some e-mails to the boys at KU and Im awaiting a reply. Can anybody Identify which sensor this is ? I think it might be off a supra .. which also probably wouldn't interface with the stock rb ecu.
Any how sorry for the Ramble, if anyone has any ideas as to how I can get the throttle body to work I would appreciate input.
My intake, note the ring and peg sticking up for the TPS sensor, any idea of what sensor it takes ?
This is the sensor I think fits mine . . . I belive its off a last gen supra ...not hundred percent though
Any ideas ?
thanks
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I figured I would have to represent the "Real Canadain Rusty Z" Currently getting the rust cut out and patched in preperation for the RB swap.
and the patched version
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Hmmm, Ive found the Rb25 to be a little on the expensive side, my brother and I got into the "while were at it" mode and the bills do add up N1 oil and water pumps etc . . . I would personaly go maby for the L28 and do the mega squirt and some injectors, that should satisfy. I think it would be really cool to see a Rb20 in a 240z, as said above a 8-9k redline is pretty cool. I guess go with whichever one you feel more comfortable with, as the Rb swap is fairly involved and will be more expensive for a straight drop in, mounts + new driveshafta at the least. Both awsome choices so good luck !
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Hey man, I think there is a entire RB33 manual in pdf under the downloads section on this site. Have a look see.
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Hey J. I think these are pretty much the same, I didn't relize you had posted them to. There a real life saver though, I find it funny I searched so many skyline/RB based sites to find em and to think they were on Hybridz.
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Damn well I really hope thats not the case, what exactly was his set up when it happend ? Its funny as soon as the Intake arrived theres a bunch of negative comments. Oh well Im happy, I'll just have to find out myself and post how it works.
Please note undercoating and Passenger side Fender
Chalk One Up For The RB Swap
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Some more progress, painted up the engine bay and mocked up the intercooler and rad setup.
A side view of the Cleaned up engine bay
Our Brand New SS 3inch turbo back,with a resonator and muffler tig welded, Bling Bling
Dash Progress, Autometer speedo, tach, Oil pressure, water temp and boost. The red switch will be an ignition kill and the little silver knob is a manual boost controller. Does any one know if this would mess up boost control ? In the installation guide it is supposed to go very close to the turbo, will the extra hose mess things up ?
Any how enjoy,
hopefully we can get more work done soon
Cheers
Chris and Rob Crombie