Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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I have an RB25det, and I removed the idle air controller and put a block off plate where it used to be. I am even using the stock ecu. Im not sure about the air chamber you are talking about, is it some sort of a balancer on the RB26 due to the ITB set up or what ? I am in the same boat as Jerry, my car runs great with no idle air controller even with a 90mm TB. My idle is slightly high (around 950) or so . .
Any how I think you should be able to remove it, if you have all the stock hardware though it can't hut to leave it on either.
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The RB's ecu is pretty tolerant im not running an evap can, idle air or abunch of extra crap on mine and she runs great other than the odd stumble now and again. What sort of boost are you going to run ? Im pushing 10psi right now and although still rich don't intend on running any more until I get and ecu and injectors.
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The boost solenoid is used I believe in first gear to limit boost, if you disconnect it you get full boost in all gears. Next for boost control I ran a line from the turbo outlet to the wastegate. My car boosts just fine and runs great without all the extra snakey stuff Nissan installed on there.
So basically your routing should be:
Turbo outlet(or whatever place you want to use a vacume reference)
Next manual boost controller
Then waste gate
Be very carful about manual boostcontrollers, I used a turbo XS on which was manufactured without the internal regulating needle, so the waste gate never opened ! !! Talk about scary, it got chucked in the trash.
Here is the turbosmart one I am using and a schemeatic that worked for me
hope that helps !
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Before you try forcing it, fill take the spark plugs out and fill the bores with a good amount of wd-40 or a similar agent. Let it sit for a day or so then try turning it over. It will wreck whatever oil is in the crank case though so once it is free you should probably change it. Do you have any pics of the car ?
Good Luck
Chris
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After reading this entire thread one thing I would like to point out is that the RB26 does have a bit of an edge in the aftermarket as far as manifolds, cams etc. Based on personal experience building the RB series engines is getting cheaper than it used to be, however it still hurts if you look at the price on a set of tomei cams for the RB25 at around 1k compared to the prices Ive seen for cams on other engines.
As far as the engine physically, both engines run ceramic turbines which don't like too much boost over 13psi or so, that being said I have seen an RB26 that with ceramic turbos that lasted at 22 psi before the owner blew all the ring lands off as he was running only a boost controller. The knock against the RB26 for me was that to upgrade the turbines and get them balanced I would pay about the same as a brand new turbo for the RB25.
The head design of the RB25 vs RB26 came up also and the 26 does have a better flowing head, with a stronger valve train. These engines like to rev and make most power up top so it is nice to know that you can wring out a 26 a bit longer before you have to shift.
Both engines are a ton of fun, if your looking for giant numbers it might be smarter to buy an engine that is produced in North America, that way you don't spend quite as much on parts at least. It is also nice to be able to hit up the parts store without spending a couple minutes cross referencing all your part #'s before you start.
Both swaps are awesome and both will cost a fair bit to reach 500 horsepower if you want it to last. Ask any of the guys on here running 400 horsepower and up how much they have spent on their engine bay. Its not cheap by any means.
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Racinjitter,
Our RB does the exact same thing, Im not sure either what causes it. What all have you done to you RB ? I was reading on skylinesaustralia that if you max out the AFM the computer drops the timing and fuel. Im running just the stock ECU and injectors at 10psi and its really rich by my wideband but when it drops like you say it does go lean so im wondering if it is the AFM issue. On a side note if I get into it a little slower it never seems to happen its just if I floor it. Im running the series 2 RB25 and it doesn't have an external ignitor.
Any how this is a very interesting thread I hope we figure it out
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So far we haven't noticed any issues regarding the maf not working properly.
Air/Fuel ratios are good and the car pulls great all the way to 6k, and probably the only issue we have noticed is that it will bog after a hard full boost (only 7psi) pull in second or third, but we attributed that to the bov venting to atmosphere. We do have plans for moving the air filter up in front of the rad, so we'll post if we notice any obvious changes in how it runs.
Chris and Rob
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What engine and mods are you running ? if you give us some more info it will be easier to figure out whats up. My Rb25det runs at around 150f return temp max if im in traffic. Thats through a big V-8 rad with a small electric fan.
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Hey guys ! The show was a blast, it was good meeting a couple of the Hybrid Z guys at the meet. My bro and I had the Red 240z with the RB25 out and he has a black 280z with triple 45s out too. Man for a smaller scene southern Ontario has some pretty crazy Z's. I got extremely lucky in the draw and won basically an AMS slotted brake kit with the ceramic pads. Once I have a price and pics they will be up for sale as I need $$ for an EMS. Any way awesome meeting so many new people and seeing some really unique builds !
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If you want the old stuff out fast, get about 15 lbs of dry ice and cover your old sound deadner in it. Let it sit for a bit and it will freeze and become extremely brittle and you can smash it with a rubber mallet and it will all shatter and come right out. Oh its also a good idea to run a fan if you have your head stuck in the car as dry ice is C02 which can cause you to pass out and asphyxiate. So than make you have good air flow and you'll be fine this is the easiest way to get that old crap out.
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I agree with stony, my intake fitted up great, however the casting wasn't perfect but it works fine so im happy. As far as the exhaust manifold I have an OBX on and it was a pain to get mounted correctly alot of work with a file as well as rewelding and repositioning the turbo flange. So far though its working nice. Stony has some good copies from the sounds of things, I had some bad ones I think it basically comes down to the consumer knowing what they are buying. Ill have to check who I got the mainfold off I bought it last year. Its easy to say that knock off are crap or knock offs are awesome, I personally believe it is a case by case situation. If you can save some money safely do it. On the same note be prepared to lose a bit of money if the product turns out crappy like my BOV I bought.
Cheers Chris
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Thanks for the advice Chris,
Now that the computer has learned a bit the AFR's are much more stable... the voltage is steady too and the only weird thing is the engine temps so I still have to figure if its sensor related or actually not heating up. Any how the car rips so Ill try to get some video for you guys. As per usual thanks for all the help!
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Hey guys my brother and I finally have the Z legitimately on the road and man does it rip. Ill update my other thread with some pics and videos once she is good to go. Any how were having a couple teething problems, nothing major more just a couple questions.
1. What voltage does your RB-z run at? Mine is around 14v off the battery is this too much ?
2. On Deceleration my AFR go really lean is this normal ? Under boost the car is nice and rich so there isn't a problem there I'm just worried about scorching something.
3. What water temp do you guys normally run at, I have a aluminum rad and flexalite fan and so far the car never goes much above 100 it hit I think 140f once though when it was sitting idling for a long time.
4. What RPM are you guys shifting at ? so far 6k is all my car has seen, it has a refreshed block with new bearings other than that the block is pretty much stock.
5. On a side note I have a line on an AEM ECU + MAP sensor for 1350 is that a good deal ?
Thanks guys !
Chris and Rob Crombie
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Man thats a clean car ! I really like the ZG's and wantannabes, very cool man.
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Hey Ben,
Im using a Jun style copy and to be honest it works great and looks good too. If you don't care about using a knock off in principle then go for it. I would steer clear of knock off blow off valves etc because the ones I have had experience with are trash. I figure if I save a few hundred here and there where I can it really adds up. Any how thats my two cents worth ..
Chris
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Thats a great Compressor, we have the same one in the shop I hope you like it. I find it a bit loud in the winter but thats to be expected.
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Thats looking awesome, your car is so clean ! Can't wait to see it finished !
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Another option is going to a hydraulic store if there is one handy, they sometimes have some pretty exotic fittings and pipe you could use. Q's idea is the simplest I'd do it of you still have the ends.
Chris
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Wow ! That is fantastic! I really really like the look of the car, what you have done is almost what I had pictured in my minds eye was seeing for my car down the road. What colour of white are you using ? Also what kind of wheels are those they look like wantanabes/rota rb's .. ? Man what a nice car.
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Wow, that sure does sound mean ! Do you have cams in it or is that just the way it sounds ? Mine not that lumpy thats for sure, I really like the sound. Glad to see your car back together man !
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Thanks Evan,
Whats the best way to run a diagnostic on the ECU ?
I'll check the maf tonight its most likely that. Ill also check the timing.
The wastegate is most likely messed up Ill try and get another . ..
Thanks for the fast responses, were new to this and really appreciate it.
Chris and Rob Crombie
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Well got some more progress, we had the Z on the road this weekend, just a couple rips up and down the road. Heres a video of it . . .
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Test-drive_166437.htm
I have a couple questions, once I get into it the engine starts to missfire and lugs a lot, what usually is the cause for this ? Second what rpm range are you fellas building boost at ? I have a t3/t4 hybrid and I was seeing 5psi at around 4k is that a little sleepy ? Would a crappy wastegate influence that, mine is definatly bypassing some exhaust at idle so it that normal ?
Im going to get a new o2 sensor orderd up today so hopefully that might resolve part of the issue.
Chris and Rob
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Awesome,
some really good idea's ... a buddy of mine has an in at Nitto ... Ill ask him about pricing on the 555's
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Thanks Jeff,
Ill check the intercooler pipes ... we have a pretty badass external pump its a BBK one that the Mustang boys use on their Cobras ...
Careless, Thanks man Im going to get a new o2 sensor today or monday
Hopefully I can figure it out
Cheers
Chris
RB25det hunting for idle . .
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Hey, yeah we have the car running great now, it was in the end the MAF was incorrectly wired. Also we shot the car with a timing light and it was a bit retarded so we advanced it and it helped a ton too.
If I were you check first that your MAF's are clean and wired correctly. Next check for any boost leaks and make sure your vacuum lines are set up correctly.
We had a POS china blow off valve that was leaking too and caused some trouble.
Next make sure your FPR isn't set too high and that it has the correct vacuume reference too.
Finally check your O2 sensor.
A couple guys on this board mentioned to me that the MAFs are used when on boost. So if your AFR is okay under boost then that means they are functioning ok.
The other thing is make sure that your idle air control is wired correctly and has the correct hose/ vacuume line routing.
Good luck ! You'll track it down its just a matter of time
Chris