Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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Not too sure what you mean by out sourcing, most good EMS systems if they are a standalone totally replace the stock ecu, and send out signal to drive the coil-on-plug ignition system that RB's have. Im not sure why somebody would want to use something like an MSD ignition box? Im not sure what part your talking about here. Defiantly though power can be made even on a stock system with a good tune..Also, the word is that outsourcing the efi is a way to unlock some power too, but I wonder if getting the power fc, or just being able to fully tune the stock system will make something like msd ignition unnecessary. If I recall correctly, it was in a different thread that someone mentioned an ems system that had a really strong ignition feature which was like using an msd setup etc. but I don't know if that suggests the other ems systems leave you worse off or not... I guess it's pretty much all down to hearsay.
Trying to figure out the same thing man . . .Speaking of hearsay, I also heard that the stock mafs are good to about 600hp (300 each) but what was unclear was whether it was actually the mafs that freak out with more air than that, or the ecu that can't handle the signal properly (tuned or untuned). Any experts on the subject? If it's a pure flow restriction issue, I can't imagine the stock mafs making that much of a bottleneck, unless of course you are using 4" pipes and a huge turbo or something. On the stock turbos however, the inlet itself is the narrowest point at something like 2.25" so the maf sizes themselves seem to be somewhat of a moot point.About BOV's some people will experience stumbling when they use a to atmosphere BOV dump, because a portion of the already metered air is lost and never reaches the engine. People get around this by placing the MAF's closer to the intake plenum and after the BOV's which means things need to be retuned as the maf is reading pressurized air as opposed to ambient pressure.
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My brother posted earlier but I believe the studs we ended up using from our local dealer were off a maxima. Not 100% on that one but Im pretty sure, just take em in and get em checked, its the easiest route unless you have an awesome hardware/ fastener store around. Its usually easier to tell them its non automotive and make sure your get a good grade than to try and explain what its for. We have had some stores say "we don't sell automotive fasteners so don't ask" but in reality they have hi grade parts that are designated for other uses.
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Another question about ecu's, has anyone used any of the Greddy E-manage systems on an RB. I have heard good things from skylinesdownunder.com just wondering what thoughts any one else might have on this. For their price they seem like a pretty darn good deal, lap top interface as well as "plug and play" with the existing loom and sensors.
Second how important is it to switch to a blow through MAF or even to a MAP sensor? I know that a lot of people will move the MAF's closer to the throttle body in order to get rid of the problems associated with BOV's and stumbling etc. Next there is the other camp who want to remove the MAFs all together switching to the MAP sensors. Are MAPs inherently more accurate from a sensor standpoint or is it because MAF's are a major restriction ?
Basically should I be looking for a MAP based ECU or should I not worry about it? My car has a stock block with a bigger turbo, intake manifold and an exhaust. Simple bolt ons, really and no internal work.
I want to keep my car nice and streetable, maby with cams and some big injectors once everything is all broken in at the stock settings.
A bit of a ramble I know, hopefully some of these questions can help other people too .
Thanks
Chris and Rob Crombie
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Thanks Chris, thats the kind of actual information I was looking for! The Apexi, is another option to think about defiantly. I know Jerry B, who posts alot on this site is using one too and Is quiet pleased with the performance he's getting on his RBZ.
The power FC is a full standalone correct ? Not just a fuel controller right? The other question I had was where did you source yours and how much did it set you back? I keep hearing things that the Apexi's are getting expensive now that they stopped production. Maybe I'm mixed up. Thanks Chris for some really concrete information to add to this thread. I have used a fair bit of your wiring guide and am just re installing the dash after we ripped out all the old 240z wiring which was fried. Anyhow
Thanks !
Chris and Rob Crombie
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I found its a lot easier and cheaper to simply take one of the good studs to a nissan dealer and get them to pick out some studs that are the same from their parts bin. I did have the part numbers for the studs and nuts around somewhere but when I called the dealer to order them in.... it was almost $10... for ONE stud!
Maybe its because I'm in Canada, I don't know, but save a buck and just go to the dealer and get similar studs, its like less than 1/3 the cost.
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On the topic of ECU's, I have heard that people are having trouble with the AEM systems, something to do with the CAS sensors. Is this a relevant issue when thinking about buying them? Also has anybody used or have experience with the Wolf500 EMS systems, I have heard good things . . .
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Awesome man, glad to hear it !
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What style and size of exhaust are you trying to run, Ive managed to run a 3 in with a resonator and a magnaflow muffler without any problems with moving the tank. I know some guys have even run 3.5 .
Maby some pics would help
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I totally agree, pull the dash out if your going to be fiddling in there with a soldering iron. I would also advise while its out to check all your vent hoses off the heater and that sort of stuff while your at it .
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I cheated with mine, I took a plasma torch out cut off the old ears, patched the holes up then re welded the ears a bit further back in order to work with the old tranny mount. It was kind of a quick and dirty fix, but it works fin and looks stock ish too !
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Hey guys, I had to mount the BOV as Evan said before the intercooler due to space reasons, would there be benefits to mounting it elsewhere? The BOV is a Chinese copy, so we'll see if it holds up. As for your question Jerry, the throttle body is a Ebay piece, in my opinion its really good quality, it seals nicely and has good bearings and return on the spring. Time will tell as how it holds up, as this is the first car my bro and I have built. Its getting so exciting to actually see it all come together. This summer after it is broken in Rob and I are shooting for a standalone and some big injectors 550's or 600's so it will remain drivable and idle decently. Thanks for all the comments, Rob and I are just about finished tackling the wiring so look forward to an update this weekend with the dash in, if all the school work doesn't bog us down !
On a side note what kind of catch cans do you guys run ? Are the closed loop systems better or is it okay to run one that has a little filter on it ? What is the proper routing for the hoses ?
Thanks for taking a look!
Cheers
Rob & Chris Crombie
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Synthtk,
your car is gorgeous !!!!!!
that is all
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Quick update, more pics . . . the engine is now finished mechanically, the intercooler is all plumbed up and set. Rad's in and almost all the lines are good to go. Its getting exciting now ! !
A close up of our throttle body and custom adapter my buddy whipped up
A shot of the manifold and our oil drains, they are 3/4 or something stupid big like that I can't remember.
Nothing special but a veiw with the rad etc in . . .
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Hey James,
I have a set of them for a RB25det, the quality isn't bad some of the bolt holes were out though and I did need to modify them a bit to get em to fit right. I think for the price you can't go wrong, I mean if you can buy 3 or 4 sets for the same price of a set of "good" headers" and you don't cry if you have to hack them up or modify them to fit. I say go for it.
Cheers Chris
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Small Update,
The Header and downpipe are now wrapped in header wrap and sprayed with silicone. The turbo is installed and the oil and water lines are hooked up. The intake manifold is now on and the adapter installed. Things are finally falling into place. Also the IAC plumbing and all the coolant lines are done. This weekend we are going to recheck the harness, hook it up and drop in the Rad. Hopefully if all goes well there is a chance we can fire it up this weekend !!
Heat Wrap and Lines
Intake and Throttle body adapter flange . . .
More to come this weekend . . .
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Yeah the thing is really weird is a street across from me in Hamilton. Across from the University. The whole bottom was fiberglass and contoured. I had no idea if it was legit or a toy or somthing ..
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Anyone know what the heck this is ?
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From what I have heard, the problem as stated is the ceramic blades blowing up around 13 psi. The stock turbo is a fairly good piece and many people on skylines Australia have switched out the ceramic blades for steel ones. While this is cheaper than a new turbo you still have to ship the unit out to a turbo shop to get it balanced. The good thing is however that the new turbo still spools just as fast as the old unit, and handles more boost.
As a question, the guys who were running 10-13 psi, where the engines bone stock or did they have rising rate after market fuel regs or anything ? My engine is pretty close to firing up and I was wondering what the injectors and the stock fueling /electronics can handle. Anybody have any experience ? Also when breaking in a new engine what kind of boost should be run ? Little to none or does it matter ?
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Well Rob and I have made some progress, just a bit of plumbing and the wiring to finish up now ! Heres our latest pics . . .
and another of the turbo side . . . .
Keep in mind ... this is what we started with last February . . . Note the hole where the battery tray goes and the right front frame rail . . .
Stay tuned more to come !
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While I don't really "get" the idea of carbing an RB engine, its original and worth a try. However if your not stuck on using an RB why don't you use one of the toyota 4's that are swapped into the Ae86 corolla's ( I can't remember the engine code) they have 5 valves per cylinder and I think ITB's to boot. There also a bout the same price as the RB you are going to start with and make good power as well as spinning like 9k or something silly. So you have your old school/new school thing taken care of as the engines are pretty recognizable, as well they make good power and rev. To top it all there not an arm and a leg and have an after market, to my knowledge this would also be an original swap.
In response to the header questions my thinking is to adapt or go custom.
So go buy a really cheap set of ebay bottom mount headers for what ever RB block you buy, and also buy a set of old L-series headers. Chop the flanges off both sets, of headers, run the RB header flange through a mill and then weld on the L-series headers. The ports should be pretty close and as a result your going to get a bolt on set of headers that are already tuned for a inline six, without messing with spacers or adapters etc, and should be a helluva lot cheaper than getting a custom set made. Somebody should do some measurements on the port size and spacing and see if this might work ? Or even easier go buy a cheap bottom mount tubo manifold, and a t-3 flange. Weld the flange to your downpipe and bolt it to the turbo outlet on the bottom mount. Chop and weld the pipe for the wastegate and your laughing. Might not be efficient but it would be cheap, hell you could even use the stock header and use a turbo flange to adapt it to your exhaust.
If your totally set on carbing an RB, don't talk about it, buy one and build it, its not well documented so start reading how the L-series boys build theirs and transfer the knowledge over. Basically pretend you are building a stoker L-series in your head in which every part is hand built and that should give you a cost idea. Its hard enough finding RB parts let alone mysterious NA parts so start fabricating and good luck. Post your results on both threads and keep us updated. Basically every question you have asked can be answered in the L series thread or with the word custom.
As I say, if you want to do it, go ahead and do it, your money etc, I just don't see this build being very efficient. It would also suck to get bitten buy the power bug and switch back to turbo after it all.
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What engine managment are you using ?
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I think the above points are really valid as far as safety when mig welding is concerned. Basically there are only a couple bad things that can happen while welding, either you burn yourself, which is easy with all the under coating and dirt associated with welding on a Z or you can start a fire. This is solved easily by making sure you are welding onto clean bare metal which is both clean of grease and paint. By getting rid of the contaminants you will have a much better weld, less smoke and less chance of a fire. As a side note, make sure you have a really good ground too, it will help with your welds and make sure that the outlet or extension that you use is rated to handle the current you welder needs. If its not your going to flip breakers and have bad welds. I learned this year how to weld on my Z so my points are totally based on my only experience I have, hope they help. Wearing a good respirator and an auto darkening mask will really help out alot, from a safety and comfort standpoint.
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Here's mine !
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Looks really nice, its almost the exact same setup as I have on my car, same muffler too! I havn't started mine yet, its on a turbo car though. You should get a sound clip of yours and post it up.
what ecu's work best
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Thanks for all the contributions ! This is turning out to be a really cool thread. Now time for another question! Who is still using the idle control and if you have deleted it, I think JerryB did, what was the startup/ drivability like ?
Thanks guys !
Chris