Canadianz
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Posts posted by Canadianz
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They seem to be good, some guys I know go to them for all their engines, mostly sr20s. When I visited them to ask about buying a rb25 then and there the owner was a bit surly and reluctant to help.. didn't give me the best feeling really, but I could have caught him on a bad day. Either way, they have a good reputation.
I ended up picking up my rb25 at total jdm in Toronto. I'd highly reccommend them. http://www.torontojdm.com
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Hey guys, I did a bit of searching looking for some manuals for the RB series engines. I found a couple in PDF form for free, they are in english too. Any how hope they help. Make sure you have adobe acrobat and when you go to download them it will take a while, there about 12 + mbs each. I found its often easier to right click on the desired manual link and "save link as" and open it later. These books are pretty intense at 280 pages or so each so you will probably want them printed at an actual print shop.
Cheers
Chris
this one is best :
http://www.mofomos.co.uk/Nissan_owners_clubs.php
ok:
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Thats hilarous, we have the same tractor at work, I think its a Massy 35. Too funny.
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Thats looking really cool, I like that look alot. The rear-end is looking really good. Seeing as your doing all that body work have you thought of merging in a motorcycle style gas cap fuel door. I was thinking sort of along the lines of the ones on the newer vipers and eclipse, the silver flush ones. Just an idea, might help keep things smooth.
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well for its settled for me. Maybe it was the shinyness
but I have a ku intake on its way now, its also coming with a 90mm aluminum throttle body, with the proper flange welded on. I'll make sure to post pictures when it arrives, it will be interesting to see what it looks like up close! -
Interesting... Well that is good news I really like the look of the KU's especially the idea of the velocity stacks inside the intake itself.
What is the differnce between the real Greddys and the knockoffs ? Anything much or just the quality of the castings etc. . . ? Ive heard the Q45 TB's are a good upgrade.
Thanks for the advice!
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Apparently its a volkswagen bus with a 993 biturbo engine in it?
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Hey guys, I’m in the process of getting all the parts together for an RB25DET swap into my 71 240Z. I would really like to ditch the stock crossover intake manifold as a Greddy style would be much simpler to plumb the intercooler piping etc. Legitimate Greddys are running around 900-1000 usd from what I have seen on a couple sites and ebay. I have also seen "freddy or greedy" knock offs for less than half that price. I wondered if any one has had any experience with these units, most seem to come from Thailand or China. I have seen a couple of the JUN style aluminum types for sale too, and they look really nice, I just worry about quality. Has anyone had any experience with any of these or has any suggestions as far as intakes for the RB25DET. If the parts work I have no problem running a freddy as long as it works!
Thanks Guys,
Here are the links:
KU Engineering (JUN) style
Another Jun Style
Freddy style
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Things are going slowly right now, just waiting for a 280zx dizzy to arrive.
Its hard to pin down.. but i'm pretty sure its an electrical failure somewhere. I've borrowed a dwell tester, so im going to check the points with that, i have heard that the points style distributors have problems with the shafts not spinning perfectly straight, causing ignition timing between cylinders to get silly. so i guess ill see where that goes.
I'll keep you guys posted!
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We're thinking along the same lines, z bomb! Right now im waiting for a 280zx dizzy to arrive, I believe the problem lies in electrical now.. First of all, the caps do not fit very tightly on the dizzy, and they wiggle a bunch, (both the old one and the new one I bought) and this affects how the motor runs, although holding it on tightly doesn't make a large difference. And number two, I had planned on swapping the dizzy out anyways, and if its causing trouble now, why not eliminate it and start from the basics.. I also plan to check the resistance of the wires to check for corrosion/cracks and replace the grounds in the engine bay.. Now all i need to do is get the ambition to go out there and work on it! winter here is good for sitting inside where its nice and warm and brainstorming, but not so much for wrenching!
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yeah the good ol canadian winter definitely has an appetite for old cars, thats for sure...
Once the guy finds me a number or address ill head over to the place and check them out, im not really concerned too much about the shape theyre in, if theyre solid, awesome. if not, theyll probably end up donor cars most likely, we have the space to store them and work on them at least... so im figuring on basically if theyre still there, and theres any substance to them, ill buy them.
Brantford is about halfway between London and Hamilton, about an hour and a half southwest of Toronto
and im not too worried about getting stuck,thanks for the offer though! out of curiosity what kind of a truck is that? The ground has frozen up pretty well around here, and if getting in and out of there is still a problem i have a solution
on hand is our ex- canadian military dodge 3/4 ton thats 50 years old but can go pretty much anywhere... its just not too fast though. its geared insanely low, and we've had to use it to pull out tractors and stumps and whatnot, comes in pretty handy around the farm! the thing is a beast, but it does its job well! still has all the weird military accessories on it for blackout driving and fording rivers, its old but its quite the piece of work.
Yasin, you said you went to U of Waterloo? I applied for the aviation course there, just waiting until april/may to see if im accepted.. what did you major in?
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yeah as of yet I havent gotten any details per se.. just a lead, so ill give the guy a call next week and see if we can get an address or something definitive.. With my luck, ill probably get there to find two piles of rust and a couple Z emblems, this is canada after all!
ill be keeping my fingers crossed..
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So I picked up the z from the garage today, which still isnt running worth a sh*t and called CAA to get the z a lift home, seeing as I'm kind of lacking in the trailer department... Soo, we get the z on the flatbed and are taking it home, and it turns out the driver got asked to take away two 240s from someones "barn" (whatever that might be) around here, but apparently a few weeks ago it was too muddy to get the truck in there. I guess he was just going to take them to the wreckers, although i guess you dont get too much for them since theyre such light cars.. he said he could only get 50 bucks (im not really familiar what they pay for scrap anymore) So, the driver said if he can find the guys number, he'll drop them off at my door for a whopping 100 bucks each.. Assuming he can find the number, id say thats not a bad deal, provided theres still something left of them!
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yeah definitely panoz-ish looking
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sooo.. anyone have any chimaera v8s kicking around?
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strap it to your mountain bike? hey, why not go all-out?
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9DWAuqP-CQ
its along the same lines of what that guy did, only with the engines strapped to his feet, and hes got hot water bottles full of kerosene in his suit
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Awesome, thank you guys! this should really help a lot, i really wasnt sure where to start with this problem, but this helps out alot! thankyou guys, ill post back if i learn anything more about this problem
-Rob
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Ok, so i just got off the phone with the mechanic, he said fuel pressure is good and the bowls are filling up fine.. before we took it to the shop we replaced the vacuum lines and put a brand new fuel filter in, so thats good for sure.
he said they had made some progress with it, it will idle smoothly and respond to throttle better, but its still not 100%
soo at least theyre getting somewhere with it.. and if it is a failure, lets hope its a small one
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At the moment the car is in at the shop, we found a mechanic thats experienced with tuning the old su carb'd jaguars, so ill ask him about the fuel pressure tomorrow. It still has the old mechanical type pump, i did take it off and clean it out thinking maybe one of the diaphragms had torn, but it seemed in good shape, and still worked well, so i put it back on and discounted it, but it never hurts to double-check.
thanks for the input!
from what ive read 80 psi is pretty low, but its strange because as far as we know its a stock engine, and the pressure is consistant for each cylinder, so it seems a little odd, because if the engine was in bad shape youd expect variations in the readings..
i also should have added that it can be tuned to idle alright, but it will backfire if you try to speed the engine up, and its worse if you do it quickly.
thanks for the input 383, its appreciated!
-Rob
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hey guys, i need some advice on what might be the problem with my 71 240. at the moment it has an l26 with roundtop su carbs, which seem to have been cursed. I got the car in august and it ran fine up until about october, when we had a problem with the choke sticking on the rear carb. we fixed that, and the car ran fine for a week and a half, until it gradually seemed to be losing power, but was still driveable. it got to the point that one day it just had no power whatsoever and had a nasty backfire out the carbs. it was acting as if the front carb was doing all the work, and the rear was just sucking air. so, we began checking out the problem, but we really havent made much progress...
we did a compression test on the engine, and it showed 80psi across the board, which seems low.. but it was consistant so i dont think theres a problem with the actual block. the carbs were our first suspect since theyre 35 years old, so they got sent to Whiteheads in Toronto, where they were rebuilt because the needles and seats were worn right out. so, we got them back and on the car, but theres still no change in how the car runs. the carbs should be fine, they were flowtested and everything, but they havent made a difference. so does anyone have any ideas what might be the problem? the next thing we'll check out is the vacuum advance on the dizzy, if that is stuck/inoperable could that cause the problem?
Any help with this is greatly appreciated, this is my first time actually working with a twin carb setup, so i feel like im just taking shots in the dark
-Rob
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If youd like to see some sr20s that have already been swapped into a z, check out http://www.vildinimotorsport.com/ or http://www.sr240z.com/sr240z/sr240z.htm
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lol talk about security.. i have 2 keys for my z, one that opens the passenger door and the hatch and another to open the drivers door and operate the ignition, which can be quite the pain as usually at night ive found myself more than once having to persuade the wrong key out of the ignition!
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I just had the same problem lastnight, drivers side light was so dim it might as well have not even been on at all, it ended up that in 2 places there were wires twisted tpgether with a bit of electrical tape over them, so they were cut out, cleaned and soldered and the light works great now
but I have a ku intake on its way now, its also coming with a 90mm aluminum throttle body, with the proper flange welded on. I'll make sure to post pictures when it arrives, it will be interesting to see what it looks like up close!
Questionable/Knockoff Bolt-on Intakes
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
SHINY!
The KU intake just arrived w/the big bore throttle body, 90mm! I have to test fit it tommrow or so then go from there, looks like good quality so far, Im impressed.