Forces

WHAT! 1,200? That is outrageous. I bought a rust free Z that was in pieces and no engine for more than that. I should have held out for a better goddamn deal.

I have a Hurst (B&M Mega shifter rip-off) that is sunken into the tranny tunnle, and one thing that I have noticed and not heard anybody else comment on is the fact that my exhaust (2 1/2 duals) heats the shifter up to the point that it is uncomfotably hot to the touch. If you box it in, make sure that it is insulated and totally boxed in. Maybe wrap your exhaust, or something.

I agree. The pre-cut wires never fit right. It's pretty easy to cut the MSD wires to length, takes maybe 5 minutes per wire, not bad at all.

This is Oregon we're talking about here, the weather is lible to go from thunder strom to sunny back to thunderstorm in 15 minutes or less.

I'm in the same boat as the rest of you guys....Car's not done, End of June? I might beable to squeeze out the entire interior and engine break in by then...Sounds cool though, I didn't know there was anything like that here in Oregon. I often think of this place as being rather disconected from the rest of the vehicle modification world.

jgkurz, do you know if they allow veh's with shaved handles? I talked to some guy at PIR, he said no, I asked about a window net, and he didn't seem to be very helpful.

Bartman, I have seen that photo before, the gauge combo looks awsome, good work. Thanks for posting up the part number on those. Did you end up using the 'optional' LED lights on the speedo and tach? I too have wondered about turnsignal indicators....

No, I didn't mean to say that MY headers are black, they have a typical aluminum finish, as described above. I was just inquiring on the efficacy of using different colors (types?) of ceramic coating.

5.0 using Holley fuel pump, pressure regualtor w/ dual out let. One outlet is going to the carb (heeee-yuk) and the other is going to an oil filled gauge. It feeds into an Edelbrock Performer 650 cfm auto-choke carb. At idle the fuel pressure surges between approx. 3 psi and 7 psi. But it doesn't do it right away. I'll fire up the engine, and the pressure is stable at about 5 psi. Then after about 30 seconds, maybe less the fuel pressure goes tits up. I bench tested the regualtor using a compressor, and the gauge seems to be reading accurately. I am thinking that the delayed reaction with the pressure fluctuation is related to the fuel bowls filling back up after the engine uses the fuel that was in them before starting it. The floats are set to Edelbrock spec 7/16". The metering rods and step ups are stock per edelbrock. Really bizarre, any ides?

JTR conversion, 383 with true dual 2 1/2's. The vibrations in my car are rediculous. It doesn't shake like it would with sold motor mounts, but it vibrates like crazy. The exhaust is really loud, which I will be toning down very soon, within the next few weeks, possibly today. Any how, has anyone else had this problem, what did you do to fix it. I have heard of people spraying the floorboards with areosole bed -iner, but I my case I think that would be useless. The engine runs fine, and like I said, the car doesn't Shake, per-say.

Lots of "annonymous" users here. I guess Oregonians don't last long in the automotive modification club....damn rain. I'm in Beaverton. Any of you guys ever hang out at Woodburn?

I'd like to get back to what ChemicalBlue was saying about the color differences. All of the ceramic coated headers I have ever seen for sale through a commercial copmany (i.e. Hooker, headman, sanderson, etc) have been silver coated, however My buddy got his headers coated is some run-down shack that were done in flat black. Is there really a difference in heat containment with different collors of coating? It doesn't seem to me that color alone would make a difference, as engine heat is not a product of a light source. Anyhow, thanks for the pics and info, very helpful.

I am sure some of you have tried wrapping block huggers with a JTR set back position. The thing that I ma debating is weather or not you can actuall fit the wrap on? The header- steering shaft clearance is very tight, and it seemes that if they touched one another, it would tear the wrap up. Also.... is there a way to tell weather or not headers are ceramic coated? I ordered a pair of coated summit brand block huggers for angled plug heads. My under hood temps are very high, and a part of me thinks that I got F***ed by Summit and they sent me a non-cearamic coated product.

Well, I am goin through all of my wiring again, and removing all the crap that I don't need, which in my case will be a LOT. How do you remove the pins from the conectors where the harnesses all meet together? I've tried reafing, cutting, pushing, and a lot of cursing, but nothing helps.

I agree with ezzzzzzz. They work, but they suck. If you tighten them too tight, you end up bending the exhaust pipe, and they never come undone because the pipes are crushed together, or if you don't tighten them enough, it leaks. Never used the 360 degree wrap around style clamp, seems kinda janky to me.